Team Corally RDX Touring Car
07-10-2006, 12:46 AM
#8056
Heres where I am so far in the prototype. I have seen people using lead weights for ballast, but I am going to experiment with creating a form/mold and melting solder into it to create a more adaptable means of adding weight. I would like to keep the weight as low in the chasis as possible.
In the pictures the top deck has been removed.
It is clear and thus difficult to see but I used a small section of .030 lexan secured to two crc standoffs. The "leads" on the battery are easily accesible even with the battery strap and top deck installed. I have even tested the thicker chassis and the battery still slides under the top deck (just barely) This is obviously a rough mock up. I am working on how to both add weight to the battery side of the car and add a "gate" that will allow quick access to the battery while still holding it in.
EDIT: I added the lexan you see in the last picture just to try. I would really prefer to convince my Buddy Larry at Team Tamale to whip up some sweet aluminum bits.
I also tried the solder idea. It doesn't seem to want to take the shape of the mold very well, but I like that it is strong and heavy. In a perfect world I could make all of the required bits out of lead and kill two birds with one stone. Perhaps I can figure out a way to use some type of steel stock and rough machine it with a band say, dremel and such. we'll see.
I am also considering adding one more standoff in between the two pictured to make sure the battery WONT move inwards. Right now I can't get it to move inwards pushing on it; its VERY secure, but I would rather over engineer it. note: I haven't made any changes that are permanent(ie I am using exixting holes in the chassis). I want to be able to change everything back should I go to a race where I can't run lipo. Same goes for the battery in case I want to sell it (especially with Orion teasing us with an improved version out soon)
In the pictures the top deck has been removed.
It is clear and thus difficult to see but I used a small section of .030 lexan secured to two crc standoffs. The "leads" on the battery are easily accesible even with the battery strap and top deck installed. I have even tested the thicker chassis and the battery still slides under the top deck (just barely) This is obviously a rough mock up. I am working on how to both add weight to the battery side of the car and add a "gate" that will allow quick access to the battery while still holding it in.
EDIT: I added the lexan you see in the last picture just to try. I would really prefer to convince my Buddy Larry at Team Tamale to whip up some sweet aluminum bits.
I also tried the solder idea. It doesn't seem to want to take the shape of the mold very well, but I like that it is strong and heavy. In a perfect world I could make all of the required bits out of lead and kill two birds with one stone. Perhaps I can figure out a way to use some type of steel stock and rough machine it with a band say, dremel and such. we'll see.
I am also considering adding one more standoff in between the two pictured to make sure the battery WONT move inwards. Right now I can't get it to move inwards pushing on it; its VERY secure, but I would rather over engineer it. note: I haven't made any changes that are permanent(ie I am using exixting holes in the chassis). I want to be able to change everything back should I go to a race where I can't run lipo. Same goes for the battery in case I want to sell it (especially with Orion teasing us with an improved version out soon)
Last edited by andrewdoherty; 07-10-2006 at 04:11 AM.
07-10-2006, 04:48 AM
#8057
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Anyone in here running or want to run the orion/kokam lipo batteries in their corally? I am working on adapting the Orions to my corally in a "factory" looking manner. Just looking for ideas. After weighing the lipo and a 3800 6 cell I seems I will have to add about 136 grams to the battery side with a brushed motor. Just looking to share information and ideas. thx.
07-10-2006, 05:52 AM
#8058
Intersting read for those who might want to cast a metal
http://www.theodoregray.com/Periodic...9/1/index.html.
I might be able to create 6 pieces I could shoe goo to the bottom of the battery. We'll see.
http://www.theodoregray.com/Periodic...9/1/index.html.
I might be able to create 6 pieces I could shoe goo to the bottom of the battery. We'll see.
07-10-2006, 06:59 AM
#8059
Well I am heading in the direction of orbitals suggestion. I have created one solder blob that I molded using an old FK05 chassis. I then sanded the dimensions until I got a perfect fit in my RDX battery slots. All thats left to do is sand it flatter to avoid sticking out the bottom of the chassis and then sho goo. If I made one I bet I can make six. The piece I made weighs in at around 20 grams. So six will allow me to add 120 grams to the battery side. That weight figure may go up or down and can obviously be adjusted down by thinning the insert. It may go up as the rdx battery slots don't have the narrow ends that the FK05 battery slots do. Another nice thing is how shiny this solder gets when its sanded. Looks just like aluminum. And its stiff as a brick!
07-10-2006, 07:06 AM
#8060
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Well I am heading in the direction of orbitals suggestion. I have created one solder blob that I molded using an old FK05 chassis. I then sanded the dimensions until I got a perfect fit in my RDX battery slots. All thats left to do is sand it flatter to avoid sticking out the bottom of the chassis and then sho goo. If I made one I bet I can make six. The piece I made weighs in at around 20 grams. So six will allow me to add 120 grams to the battery side. That weight figure may go up or down and can obviously be adjusted down by thinning the insert. It may go up as the rdx battery slots don't have the narrow ends that the FK05 battery slots do. Another nice thing is how shiny this solder gets when its sanded. Looks just like aluminum. And its stiff as a brick!
07-10-2006, 09:14 AM
#8061
Tech Adept
What.
Last edited by Mutabarucka; 07-11-2006 at 08:40 AM.
07-10-2006, 10:13 AM
#8062
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Well I am heading in the direction of orbitals suggestion. I have created one solder blob that I molded using an old FK05 chassis. I then sanded the dimensions until I got a perfect fit in my RDX battery slots. All thats left to do is sand it flatter to avoid sticking out the bottom of the chassis and then sho goo. If I made one I bet I can make six. The piece I made weighs in at around 20 grams. So six will allow me to add 120 grams to the battery side. That weight figure may go up or down and can obviously be adjusted down by thinning the insert. It may go up as the rdx battery slots don't have the narrow ends that the FK05 battery slots do. Another nice thing is how shiny this solder gets when its sanded. Looks just like aluminum. And its stiff as a brick!
mcgoo
07-10-2006, 11:50 PM
#8064
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Looking for some help . . .
My local track has slowed this summer so traction is not like it used to be during the "season" Typical lap times earlier this year when traction was higher were in the low 13's/high 12's. The track now leaves my car pretty dusty after a run and there is an obvious reduction in traction. Last week's race I was able to get my lap times down to around 14.4 seconds. I went back up to practice today and mess with some changes. Due to the loss of traction I have been unable to get the on power steering I would like. So just for grins I decided to sauce all the way across each front tire. Viola! My lap times dropped instantly to 14.0 until the sauce wears off and I start having to lift throttle to get the car to turn in. Any suggestions to gain more steering without saucing the whole fronts? I have my steering turned to 100% already and have set my epa's to take advantage of all the steering travel I can with out hitting the lower shock collars.
My local track has slowed this summer so traction is not like it used to be during the "season" Typical lap times earlier this year when traction was higher were in the low 13's/high 12's. The track now leaves my car pretty dusty after a run and there is an obvious reduction in traction. Last week's race I was able to get my lap times down to around 14.4 seconds. I went back up to practice today and mess with some changes. Due to the loss of traction I have been unable to get the on power steering I would like. So just for grins I decided to sauce all the way across each front tire. Viola! My lap times dropped instantly to 14.0 until the sauce wears off and I start having to lift throttle to get the car to turn in. Any suggestions to gain more steering without saucing the whole fronts? I have my steering turned to 100% already and have set my epa's to take advantage of all the steering travel I can with out hitting the lower shock collars.
I think I figured this one out. I am hoping someone ehre can verify. I have been thinking I was using the McGreevy set up. HERE
But after thinking about what is limiting my steering, I realized I think I had been mounting the bottom of my front shocks incorrectly. In the picture below am I correct that the McGreevy setup is indicating that the shocks are to me mounted in hole 1? I had been mounting them in hole three which I think has been limiting how far my wheel can turn before hitting thngs. This might explain why some are able to get enough steering with their epa's turned down to 60-80. Thanks for reading.
AWD
07-11-2006, 12:07 AM
#8065
I'm almost certain you've got that backwards. The way I read Brian's setup, the lower shock mounting position is in the hole closest to the wheel, which would have the most limiting affect on actual steering throw.
I realize we all have different driving styles, but even with my shocks all the way out on the arms, there's no possible way I could ever use that much steering. The car turns so hard and so sharp that I find myself constantly turning it down. In fact, the smoother I get, the less steering I seem to need. I'm not racing mod though, only stock and 19T, so it's probably different if you're running mod.
I know Brian uses the Parma tires and sauces all the way out to the hard stuff. On Parma, that's all but like .5 inches of an outside ring. Parma is, without question, my most beloved tire on carpet.
I realize we all have different driving styles, but even with my shocks all the way out on the arms, there's no possible way I could ever use that much steering. The car turns so hard and so sharp that I find myself constantly turning it down. In fact, the smoother I get, the less steering I seem to need. I'm not racing mod though, only stock and 19T, so it's probably different if you're running mod.
I know Brian uses the Parma tires and sauces all the way out to the hard stuff. On Parma, that's all but like .5 inches of an outside ring. Parma is, without question, my most beloved tire on carpet.
07-11-2006, 12:10 AM
#8066
The easiest way to visualize that setup sheet is to look at the "red" mounting hole on the arms. This is the fourth hole, which is only available when you have the extensions on the arms, like on the rear of the car. The one next to it is the furthest out without the extensions.
07-11-2006, 01:07 AM
#8067
I have used both Jaco single and double stage xxpink and xxpink/orange. I have been saucing out to the orange and still can just barely get enough. I am running stock. After looking at the set up sheet REALLY hard, I see that you are correct. I was just over zealous to find a simple solution. Thanks for the rerality check.
07-11-2006, 09:33 AM
#8068
Hello folks.
I'm thinking about getting a Corally RDX, but before i would like to buy one ,i heard that the there was a problem witht the front suspension arms on the RDX breaking easily and i was wondering if Corally fixed this problem with new and improved arms.
-Lee
I'm thinking about getting a Corally RDX, but before i would like to buy one ,i heard that the there was a problem witht the front suspension arms on the RDX breaking easily and i was wondering if Corally fixed this problem with new and improved arms.
-Lee
07-11-2006, 09:41 AM
#8069
Originally Posted by Leester
Hello folks.
I'm thinking about getting a Corally RDX, but before i would like to buy one ,i heard that the there was a problem witht the front suspension arms on the RDX breaking easily and i was wondering if Corally fixed this problem with new and improved arms.
-Lee
I'm thinking about getting a Corally RDX, but before i would like to buy one ,i heard that the there was a problem witht the front suspension arms on the RDX breaking easily and i was wondering if Corally fixed this problem with new and improved arms.
-Lee
-Corally International
Specialized R/C also has a protective bumper system that greatly reduces arm breakage:
-Specialized R/C
07-11-2006, 10:02 AM
#8070
Originally Posted by Leester
Hello folks.
I'm thinking about getting a Corally RDX, but before i would like to buy one ,i heard that the there was a problem witht the front suspension arms on the RDX breaking easily and i was wondering if Corally fixed this problem with new and improved arms.
-Lee
I'm thinking about getting a Corally RDX, but before i would like to buy one ,i heard that the there was a problem witht the front suspension arms on the RDX breaking easily and i was wondering if Corally fixed this problem with new and improved arms.
-Lee
Lee, I heard the same thing, but after i bought the Kydex bumper, i think i have broken 2 arms in approximately 5 months of racing fairly regularly....
i would not worry about it too much....RDX is the best car i have ever driven...
marc