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Old 06-05-2006, 02:18 PM   #7756
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Great stuff, man. Definitely share some pictures with us of your updated layout. I'm going to be looking for ideas when the new receiver shows up.

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Originally Posted by or8ital
Hey! That's mine! I changed it a bit since then though. I put the PT back on the servo. It was a pain having it mounted on the top plate. I now have my sphere next to the servo with cap between the servo holder and the wire. Then I stood my micro receiver up between the ESC and motor facing the belt. I ran all my wires to the inside next to the belt. Looks even cleaner then before and I can get the ESC fully on the chassis. I'll try to post pictures later tonight.

The micro is definately a necessity with the brushless systems on these cars with the narrow chassis. Gives you a lot more options in mounting the electronics. My only complant with the RDX is the servo arm facing out. I think a layout similar to the the T2 would give you a little more room to work with.
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Old 06-05-2006, 06:12 PM   #7757
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
Great stuff, man. Definitely share some pictures with us of your updated layout. I'm going to be looking for ideas when the new receiver shows up.
As promised here are pictures of the new layout. Hope they help. You should be able to do the same with the GTB but the fan and cap might be an issue. You would need to route the wires away from the fan blades (they break easily from my experience) and you might have to put the cap on the servo.
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Team Corally RDX Touring Car-p0001681.jpg   Team Corally RDX Touring Car-p0001685.jpg  
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Old 06-05-2006, 06:21 PM   #7758
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Hey orbital, if you flip the rear shock mounting screw 180 degrees, shock position changes are easier. All you have to do is take the nut off instead of having to take the screw out. Also, put a piece of fuel tubing over the antenna where it comes near the top deck.
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Last edited by Jimmy Morris; 06-05-2006 at 06:34 PM.
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Old 06-05-2006, 06:23 PM   #7759
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Great stuff, thanks for sharing the pictures. I'm excited to get the new receiver and start experimenting.

I'm able to get away without using the fan with the 4300. Well, I was, but with the summer heat I'm having a few more issues. I'll probably upgrade to them MM fan so I don't have to worry so much about the little blades. I'll share my electronics layout next week once the new gear arrives.
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Old 06-05-2006, 06:23 PM   #7760
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just a thought for anyone looking to gain a little space for electorincs, mount your servo, then shoe goo it in to place, once the shoo goo cures remove the portion of the servo and mountng post closest to the motor you could easly gain a fore MM of space,

yes i know..... it will be a pain if you need or want to replace your servo,
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Old 06-05-2006, 09:23 PM   #7761
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Quote:
Hey guys i was thinking that a list posted of:

A) The differnt parts, not supplied with the car, other manufactures etc. that you fill make the car better or nicer to drvie. IE. Shocks. include part numbers etc if you have them. What you like about the item.

B) Differant items or supplies you use to complete tasks, such as Assc grease for this and that etc. Also include part numbers and what makes the item nice to use.

I think it would help the new guys to the car and maybe even the older ones to try something new.

I know I am new and would like to get some ideas. Thanks
Anyone have more to add? Im sure there are lots more that are not speed secrets you dont want to give away.
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Old 06-07-2006, 06:09 AM   #7762
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Guys, whats the diffrence between Downstops and Droop and how do i measure downstops. When i measure droop i use rest the car on the Hudy blocks and use the droop gauge to change it. Now i need to get 7.5 front and 8 at the back.

Thanks,

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Old 06-07-2006, 06:56 AM   #7763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mission_carbon
Guys, whats the diffrence between Downstops and Droop and how do i measure downstops. When i measure droop i use rest the car on the Hudy blocks and use the droop gauge to change it. Now i need to get 7.5 front and 8 at the back.

Thanks,

Willz
I don't use a droop gauge. What I do is set uptravel. I get the ride height set and then set up travel. Like 2mm front and 2mm rear. I rest one finger on the tire and pull up on the shock tower and slide the ride height gauge under the chassie to set up travel. Then on each end of the car, I pick it up from the center to make sure the tires come off the ground the same.
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Old 06-07-2006, 09:27 AM   #7764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRW141
I don't use a droop gauge. What I do is set uptravel. I get the ride height set and then set up travel. Like 2mm front and 2mm rear. I rest one finger on the tire and pull up on the shock tower and slide the ride height gauge under the chassie to set up travel. Then on each end of the car, I pick it up from the center to make sure the tires come off the ground the same.
Downstop is if you lift your car up but the tires still touched the surface then you have to check the height between the surface and your chassis thats Downstops!

But we always drive Droop 5mm in front and 4mm in Rear with the Losi Droop Gauche!
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Old 06-07-2006, 10:56 AM   #7765
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Quote:
Then on each end of the car, I pick it up from the center to make sure the tires come off the ground the same.
I read recently that you're actually not supposed to do this part. Apparently you shouldn't adjust uptravel to compensate for tweak. The guide said to get uptravel the same from left to right, and then leave it. If the tires don't come off at the same time, there's tweak somewhere. I'll see if I can find where that was written down.
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Old 06-07-2006, 10:57 AM   #7766
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I've been searching all around and can't find the answer anywhere, so I'll bug you guys with it.

What preparation should you do to a new set of rubber tires before running them? Presumably, there's some process of trimming the "flashing" from them or something?
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Old 06-07-2006, 11:42 AM   #7767
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Adam-
put them on a tire truer, and sand the flashing off (lightly)
or put foams on the car
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Old 06-07-2006, 01:40 PM   #7768
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Oooh, look who's trolling the RDX thread! We need to get this man into the Corally camp already. :-D
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Old 06-07-2006, 05:25 PM   #7769
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Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
To keep their diffs clean, several people have cut out "donuts" from contact paper and applied them to both sides of each diff. The "donuts" make contact (and stick) to the snap-on rings on the diffs and have a hole cut out large enough for the output shafts to go through without making contact.

Seems to work pretty well. I will probably have some in place on my RDX by this Wednesday when the Asphalt Nats begins.

Hi,

can you post some pictures?

It would be nice

rgds

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Old 06-07-2006, 05:28 PM   #7770
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Just had some questions about setup:
I was running foam tire stock on a track that had been sprayed w/ Jack, so we had medium to high traction. I was running a setup based on Brian McGreevy's from the Novak. I wound up raising the rear camber link at the tower, to try to get the car to turn more. I also moved the front link in one hole from the outermost to add steering as well. I had regular extensions on the rear, and removed them, to try to get the car to steer more off the corner, but I question how effective this was.

My problem was that I felt I needed more steering entering corners, and to a lesser extent, exiting. The car was dialed thru a long chicane and around a carousel similar to Vegas's last year. It's just the 180s were not so kind.

I have 4* of caster, do I go to 6*? Any ideas? Thanks
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