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Old 01-27-2005, 09:14 PM   #721
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Here is some testing I was doing with the stand

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Old 01-27-2005, 09:16 PM   #722
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dr_hfuhuhurr,

Do you have any pics of the front end of your car, specifically the shock tower? I wanna get an idea of what is going on there.
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Old 01-27-2005, 09:48 PM   #723
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Quote:
Originally posted by Brian McGreevy


Kevin, I gotta have one
id like to get one too, i could. pm me or write on here how!
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:02 PM   #724
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hey guys...what is the drive ratio of the RDX and what are the 3 most commonly used spurs....might as well make up my rollout charts if people will be needing them.

Thanks

Eric
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:36 PM   #725
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drive ratio is 2:1, and i bet most 64p users are around 100/104. 48p, not sure... kit comes with 81, i think.
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:42 PM   #726
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Kit comes with 78.......... in 48 pitch. 81 tooth doesn't let you run a rear swaybar. So we stick with the 78 mainly in Mod.

I'll definately snag one of them stands from Rob.

Jeff
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Old 01-28-2005, 12:12 AM   #727
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Jeff,

How many shims are yu running on the front inner hingepin holders when you run carpet? I didnt run any t keep width at 190mm, but I think it caused some problems with the CVD. I think I need to run 1 deg toe in shims and the narrow hex's?

Please let me know,
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Old 01-28-2005, 06:34 AM   #728
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Hey guys,

PM me for $'s and payment info for the car stands. Rob will be stocking them prolly next week sometime, I can get a few out to who ever just shoot me a PM...


Thanks Blake for posting the pix!

Kevin
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Old 01-28-2005, 09:04 AM   #729
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Hi Guys...

sorry ifthis has already been covered...but ther has been a lot of talk about the RDX lately..I was just curious what spares someone would want or need to have on had if running this car? Consider that this would most liekly be for your average club racer, not an A-mainer, but ab upper-middle of the pack guy (Read FAST gear but still cuts some corners tight and may have some wall clippage)

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Old 01-28-2005, 09:56 AM   #730
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Ray..... with the stock hexs and no shims you are at 188mm width. I would put at least one if not two shims in there to get it out wide. For massive steering you could put the narrow hexes on and put 4 shims in, you will need longer screws when you start stacking them up.

The narrow hexes help with the rear end mainly as you put them on and you can put 2 shims all around plus room for adjusting rear toe.

Windsor99...... recommended parts: pack of arms (comes with 4 in a bag), steering knuckles, Kydex bumper, Rubberneck bumper, spare screws of the Torx. Nothing crazy, typical replacement parts. Spare Caster blocks as well for tuning.

Jeff
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Old 01-28-2005, 10:44 AM   #731
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jeff Brown
Ray..... with the stock hexs and no shims you are at 188mm width. I would put at least one if not two shims in there to get it out wide. For massive steering you could put the narrow hexes on and put 4 shims in, you will need longer screws when you start stacking them up.

The narrow hexes help with the rear end mainly as you put them on and you can put 2 shims all around plus room for adjusting rear toe..

Jeff
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Old 01-28-2005, 10:46 AM   #732
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Ray - your car making it's first race appearance this weekend. How did the build go so far. Hit me up with a PM of your tips. My build is right around the corner (Hopefully she shows up on my doorstep today!)

John
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Old 01-28-2005, 11:00 AM   #733
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Build tips:

1) if your going to run the sway bar-put the hardware on the arms before putting the arms on the car.

2) Agaiin on sway bar-mount the hardware on the top deck before mounting on car. The inserts are friction fit-so take your time getting them in. I got them in as deep as I could and as stright as I could by pressing them in-then I pulled them flush with the screw.

3) buy the diff rebuild kits just in case as they have the very good thrust washer assy in them (copper race).

4) Pull out the thrust washer regardless and heavily grease with AE black grease and reinstall. if its got a silver cage on the thrust washer-keep it as a spare and put the copper one in.

5)Do not overtighten diff-do final tightening in the car. With a blade screw driver-you can adjust diffs on the RDX with the wheels on!!! JUst tight enough that they dont slip-no more.

6)Dont be stupid like me and try and outsmart the intruction manual. I built mine without the spacers on the hingepins and guess what?? I broke three steering blocks and bent two CVD's in less than 20 laps on the track in incidental contact!!

7)to achieve the short camber link position on the front-you will need an extra set of 28mm turnbuckles (79271)

8)Do put on the BRP TC3 bumper and/or the Rubberneck bumper. The stock bumper is junk-unless you run on a track with no boards.

Last edited by rayhuang; 01-28-2005 at 11:07 AM.
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Old 01-28-2005, 11:12 AM   #734
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btw-on item #6-all my fault-thats more broken parts than the last 12 months combined!! Basically my set-up board has a sticker on it and set the car on t and it was 190 so I didnt use the shims.
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Old 01-29-2005, 05:56 AM   #735
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Thanks Ray - Just received my car last night
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