Jason B

iTrader: (13)

It is on the calendar and I think I may try to get down there the day before. A good excuse to take a day off work!!!

CrashTstDummy

looks like at least 3 car kits to be raffled along with other stuff....batteries...motors...etc.

Mr. McGoo

iTrader: (23)

Sorry guys for not updating sooner - it has been an unbelievable busy week...i barely have been checking rctech....sheesh....the world has been a dark place with out being glued the latest happenings of the rctech world....

larry made me up some of the camber link braces and they came out great - i ran them last sunday with no hiccups at all

i will try to post some pics of them either today or tomorrow - we are thinking about threading the actual holes of the braces b/c of the camber link ballcup post things can only take about 3 threads due to the short link and thickness of aluminum...

all that to say is, if you run your outermost camber link - and have broken a few shock towers....this is well worth your money (not sure how much they are yet) - larry's aluminum is the same stuff he uses to make parts for Boeing airplanes.....

i will talk with Larry sunday as we are trying to figure out what is the best way to make them up....threads or no threads.....and will keep everyone updated...

marc
.....aka....Mr. McGoo

CrashTstDummy

actually i now have 4 complete set of the braces in stock and they are the threaded version and will work out great

jim

CrashTstDummy

JW...hows that Corally running for ya?......hope all is well bro

jim

HarshGuy

iTrader: (6)

...it's realy "easy", just got to dremel out the part the motor "sits in" about 5 mm towards the center of the chassis, I think the posts you were referring to were these:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...postcount=6233

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...postcount=6235

it's even "easier" on the 2.4 chassis as you don't have to cut so deep, but wear a mask and long sleeve shirt ...graphite dust flies everwhere ;-)

...the 2.4 chassis really helped out on out track, going from the stock chassis right to the 2.4 ...no other changes, shaved 4/10ths off my lap times (on our track anyways).

Drcy

Did you got any conclusion about the differences between 2,4 and 3mm chassis .

Here in Austria some drivers meant that the 2,4mm gives much more grip overall, best for outdoor.
And 3mm is best for indoor with high grip.

If is so why they use the 3mm chassis as standard??

Any coments on this are mostly weecome

cheers

Pedro

Drcy

Today I was assembling my new RDX and when I was assembling the new arms (that I bought extra), I found some difficulties, mainly with the rear arms and since there is no instructions about it, perhaps Jeff or sombody from Corally knows how to solvé it:

1 - The rear arms have to possible positions for the outer hingepin, allowiing to positions for the rear upright, one closer and one more far away from the Bulkhead. The problem is that in this position the rear upright is so far away that the MiP CVD Bone falls out???

2 - Since trhere is no more aluminiun plate to fixate the rear shock (the new rear arms do not need it) I try to screw the direct, I mean without opening a thread...not a good idea ...I am still wondering wich screw (lenght) is supposed to be used ??

If somebody have some experience with the new arms I will love to know about it

thanks in advance

Pedro

HarshGuy

iTrader: (6)

Yea As I said in the post right before yours

"...the 2.4 chassis really helped out on out track, going from the stock chassis right to the 2.4 ...no other changes, shaved 4/10ths off my lap times (on our track anyways)."

But that is not exactly 100% true, as the car I converted over to the 2.4 chassis had the specialized 4mm chassis, so leaving the same exact setup going from the 4mm to the 2.4 was a big improvement on asphalt (the 4mm I had on both my cars for carpet racing).

CrashTstDummy

Tag left you a post on the Team thread....

jim

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Sounds like the new kits have the new arms? I don't think we even have the arms in the states yet, so it might take a few days before we can answer any questions.

Brian McGreevy

iTrader: (10)

Drcy,

The inner hole for the outer hinge pin is the same as the old arms. The outer hole is for using the narrow hubs.

I haven't gotten any of the new arms myself yet, so I don't know anything about screw lengths...but I'd just use one that has a fair amount of thread (at least 4-5 mm) past the shock end when fitted into it.

tim fry

iTrader: (1)

Hi all

Just ordered an RDX what spares are essential for my pit box

Thanks
Tim

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

They are available in very LIMITED quantities. Just give Robbie or Jeff a call at Corally USA.

-Korey

Drcy

Thank you for the reply.

I used The outer hole with the narrow hubs but the MIP CVD are too short, they felt out...???

so I do not know how to use them..

Its funny that on the XXI century there is still situations like that...

thanks for any info

cheers

Pedro