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Old 05-03-2006, 05:45 PM   #7231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason B
Do people use threadlock in a lot of places on the car?

I was having these same questions last night. Very few mentions of threadlock (BLUE, NOT RED!!!) in the manual, but a lot of places that seemed like it might be needed.

Thoughts?
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Old 05-03-2006, 06:29 PM   #7232
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I have a question what is the difference in having the rear tow at the hub or at the arms. I was thinking about getting the 1 or 2 degree hubs and then taking out the rear shims. Would this be wise and what should I see as for handling?

-Monti-
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Old 05-03-2006, 06:32 PM   #7233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason B
The screw doesn't seem to tighten them enough to hold them on the axles though... they just fall off.
Did they crack? Inspect them closely near where the clamp point is and see if there's a crack. It doesn't take much to break them, and once you do, they won't stay tight no matter how much you screw them down. Brian is right, you don't wanna tighten them much at all if they're not broken.

Broken hexes seem to work just fine, you just have to be careful not to lose the pin when you take the wheels off.
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Old 05-03-2006, 09:52 PM   #7234
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You should never have to use threadlock on a touring car IMO, This isnt 1/8 buggy.
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Old 05-03-2006, 10:14 PM   #7235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monti
I have a question what is the difference in having the rear tow at the hub or at the arms. I was thinking about getting the 1 or 2 degree hubs and then taking out the rear shims. Would this be wise and what should I see as for handling?

-Monti-
It may be easier to get your car to meet the ROAR 190mm max width by using the 1 or 2 degrees hubs as opposed to the rear shims.

Several RDX drivers (including myself) using foams at the 2006 Carpet Nats had to deal with narrowing their cars to fit within the ROAR measuring box.
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Old 05-03-2006, 10:23 PM   #7236
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Bill thats good to know but I was wanting to know what effects on the handling of the car does moving the rear toe from having say 1 degree at the arm vs. 1 degree at the hub.

-Monti-
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Old 05-03-2006, 10:35 PM   #7237
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Oops! Sorry! I had totally discounted any noticeable difference between the two toe-in options for the rear IMO.

The at-the-arm setup minimally shortens the wheelbase over the at-the-hub option. Minimal change to the angle of the dogbones too.

Bill
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Old 05-03-2006, 11:40 PM   #7238
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Well basically your car will be more stable if you use the hubs to adjust toe instead fo the shims. When you use the hubs, the inner hinge pins are runnign parallel to each other. When they are sitting liek that, the suspension works mroe efficently, and allows weight to be transfered more freely through the car, producing mroe mechanial grip.

When we use "inboard toe" the hinge pins are angled.... they almost create a situation antisquat does. They dont let the suspension transfer weight around as efficently, so there is a slight loss in traction and stability. Mostly you will find the hubs to be a little more consistant when it's bumpy.

I never had any problems at carpet nats with width. I went through tech every time . Even when I ran 1.5 deg of rear toe, you just need to use the Narrow wheel adapters. I used them all the way around .

-Korey
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Old 05-04-2006, 12:21 AM   #7239
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Korey,

I worked tech and know the problems experienced were mainly on RDXs using 2 degrees of rear toe with foam tires. Many non-team drivers had to resolve their rear width issues with that combination. I personally must have helped at least 5 drivers with the issue...After curing my own car.

Did you achieve your 1-1/2 degrees of rear toe with only the shims OR a combination of 1/2 degree shims and 1 degree hubs OR other?

Thanks.
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Old 05-04-2006, 05:54 AM   #7240
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Just wondered if someone could tell me what effect raising the wishbones will have?

I know it alters the RC but what ecactly doe it do different to lowering the top link.

I have been racing on carpet since i have had the RDX and been running the pivot blocks in there dots down possition, apart from some kick up.... would highering the wishbones help me atall?

Many thanks
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Old 05-04-2006, 06:24 AM   #7241
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Default Changing Link position Verticaly

Hi,

my experience is that a low link position at the suspension bridge , being angle up - direction rear up, will stabilize the car by stoping it to role as much as if the same link would be paralel with the floor.

Therefore more roll you use for more weight transfer , what you may need if the grip is not high and if you do not need the car reacting very fast to wheel imput.

If it is a narrow short circuit and you need to do some dog fight is better to have the links more angled.

Please remember tha setup is allways a trade - you win something you loose something . The key for sucess is to know what is more important - what you may win or what you may loose.


cheers

Pedro
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Old 05-04-2006, 06:55 AM   #7242
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Thanks for that, so what your saying is it will gain me rear end... is this power on or general?

Thanks
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Old 05-04-2006, 10:12 AM   #7243
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simple question, what P-dub bumper wil lfit this car with the least modifications, or is there another bumper you guys are using to help us barrier impaired drivers.
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Old 05-04-2006, 10:21 AM   #7244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
Korey,

I worked tech and know the problems experienced were mainly on RDXs using 2 degrees of rear toe with foam tires. Many non-team drivers had to resolve their rear width issues with that combination. I personally must have helped at least 5 drivers with the issue...After curing my own car.

Did you achieve your 1-1/2 degrees of rear toe with only the shims OR a combination of 1/2 degree shims and 1 degree hubs OR other?

Thanks.
Bill,

Kathy's and my car were 1.5 degrees toe using spacers but we used the narrow hex adapters. It went through each time no problem. I was going to try 2 degrees of toe but ran out of time.

FWIW.....

Korey, how far is Renton from where you guys are? I will be up there for a couple of days next week.

Art
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Old 05-04-2006, 11:48 AM   #7245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chach
simple question, what P-dub bumper wil lfit this car with the least modifications, or is there another bumper you guys are using to help us barrier impaired drivers.
http://www.corallyusa.com/specializedrc/bumperz.htm

The ultimate system with the kydex bottom plate is the only way to roll. Broken parts have been cut by about 95%.
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