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Old 04-16-2006, 08:49 PM   #7021
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That brings up a question...Is anyone using the aluminum steering blocks?
With bearings or bushings?
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Old 04-16-2006, 08:50 PM   #7022
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And a question for Jeff...When will the Lightweight Servo Posts #79395A be available?
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Old 04-16-2006, 09:23 PM   #7023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
That brings up a question...Is anyone using the aluminum steering blocks?
With bearings or bushings?
I have the aluminum hubs... running bearings right now - but I have the bushings ready-to-go - when I "blow up" all the bearings I have.

Maybe I hit tooo much crapp - I guess I've blown up about 5 bearings in a year & a half....?
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Old 04-16-2006, 09:31 PM   #7024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
That brings up a question...Is anyone using the aluminum steering blocks?
With bearings or bushings?
I am now using the aluminum steering blocks with the bearings and so far so good I have only had one gigantic devastating hit when I smacked the boards after getting airborn after bouncing of a flapper at top speed and damn I was amazed the only damage was a broken wheel (the center of the wheel was completely broken from the rest of the wheel) like I said a hard hit LOL... but I also have the ultimate bumper sytem to. I would say that with the adition of the bumper system and the aluminum steering blocks the initial problem with the car being fragile is a thing of the past..
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Old 04-16-2006, 09:32 PM   #7025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbeardmore
I have the aluminum hubs... running bearings right now - but I have the bushings ready-to-go - when I "blow up" all the bearings I have.

Maybe I hit tooo much crapp - I guess I've blown up about 5 bearings in a year & a half....?
I assume that the aluminum steering blocks weigh about twice what the graphite ones do. Why run the aluminum ones? Better tolerances?
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Old 04-16-2006, 09:34 PM   #7026
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Im running the aluminum sterring block whit the corally bushing. I was running the SRC one before and found they have more slop than the corally one!!
Also found that whit the aluminum sterring block you will have some slop cause and the plastic one they dont have slop !! thats a negative side of the aluminum but thinks that if you hit a lot you will bew able to finsih your qualif hehe!! but i really like the aluminum one seriously hehe!!

i dont have problem whit broken parts but some people have some so this hop-up whit the new a-arm im sure it will be a lot more durable car for sure!!

basicly im running cause its alu lol its more nicer than the plastic one and dont have problem whit it so they gonna stay in the car!!

Later!
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Old 04-16-2006, 09:42 PM   #7027
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I found that the aluminum is more durable then the graphite ones but I also know some guys that where beaking the graphites and all they did was add the bumper system and they havnt had any break since. And since I broke a graphite one very easily without even hitting a board that hard I just slightly clipped one and it broke along with bending a CVD.
I think in the long run the bumper system and the aluminum steering hubs are cheap insurance and the weight difference inst that much.

The slop?? I seem to have about the same slop with the aluminum as I did with the graphite ones although using the bearings over time I would imagine you would get a bit more slop from wear and tear.

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Old 04-16-2006, 09:50 PM   #7028
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yeah after a lot of runtime on tour car you will notice some slop cause the bushing have some wear but its not a big big slop !!!my slop that i have in the front was the wear of the turnbuckles cup but after change them for the rpm one the front end is tigth hehe! no more slop!!

Later!!
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Old 04-16-2006, 11:21 PM   #7029
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My carpet spec car is from the first batch in the US. From day one, I have been using the rubber neck front bumper available from Corally (just the hard foam part and not the kydex lower part). The only part on the car I ever broke was the plastic steering knuckle and that was in the 3rd week of owning the car (it was a very, very hard hit).

I switched to the Aluminum units and have never looked back. With the Specialized RC bushings, they are awesome. Do I really need them...not really but it's more for insurance than anything. They are a little heavier than the stock plastic pieces but just by a hair!
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Old 04-17-2006, 09:54 AM   #7030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
That brings up a question...Is anyone using the aluminum steering blocks?
With bearings or bushings?
Hi Bill, hope you and yours had a Happy Easter!

I run them on my car...mostly because it had them on it when I bought it. LOL To me it is cheap insurance for when I have a "Brain Lock" moment. LOL I do tend to do that sometimes..... BTW I changed out the bearings for bushings. To date Kathy has only broken two of the plastic ones....I am thinking of taking the aluminum ones off of my car and putting them on my son's.
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Old 04-17-2006, 10:22 AM   #7031
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does anyone know the release date for the new arms for the rdx and has ayone got the new rear bulk heads yet and tried them just wondering
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Old 04-17-2006, 01:21 PM   #7032
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
And a question for Jeff...When will the Lightweight Servo Posts #79395A be available?
We have the servo posts in stock.

Jeff
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Last edited by Jeff Brown; 04-17-2006 at 01:53 PM.
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Old 04-17-2006, 03:33 PM   #7033
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Quote:
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does anyone know the release date for the new arms for the rdx and has ayone got the new rear bulk heads yet and tried them just wondering
Corally site says May 1st?
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Old 04-18-2006, 01:31 PM   #7034
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this summer im racin on the 1/8 scale racers of toledo track, electric. the one that has the Great Lakes Challenge every year and the 2003 Roar gas Nats. i was wondering what should i run diff wise.

i heard a front one-way and rear spool was stupid fast. also what about a spool or one-way in the front only, diff in the rear. any other suggestions?
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Old 04-18-2006, 05:58 PM   #7035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.Hallett
this summer im racin on the 1/8 scale racers of toledo track, electric. the one that has the Great Lakes Challenge every year and the 2003 Roar gas Nats. i was wondering what should i run diff wise.

i heard a front one-way and rear spool was stupid fast. also what about a spool or one-way in the front only, diff in the rear. any other suggestions?
I have never seen a one-way in the front and a spool in the back. If that works, let me know. Typically a one-way in the front and diff in the back.

Jeff
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