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Old 04-04-2006, 01:11 PM   #6871
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrashTstDummy
alot of guys are using the rpm 4-40 cups with the lunsford Ti turnbuckles and they seem to work out quite well

Got it.Thats what I was looking for. I think however that the ball grippas on schumacher's site come in sets of 8 cups and 8 ball studs.
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Old 04-04-2006, 01:34 PM   #6872
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Default Getting ready for outdoors

I have a carpet edition RDX. I'm going to start racing modified rubber tire outdoor on asphalt. What are the must have parts?

2.4mm top deck ?
spool ?
oneway ?
2.4mm chassis ?
etc.
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Old 04-04-2006, 01:40 PM   #6873
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Got it.Thats what I was looking for. I think however that the ball grippas on schumacher's site come in sets of 8 cups and 8 ball studs.

Yea but just remember that the top c-hub screw has the ball on it....
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Old 04-04-2006, 02:03 PM   #6874
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If it were me, I would grab the 2.4mm upper deck, a spool, and a black spring set. If you seem like the car gets really weird whent he temperature rises then maybe grab the 2.4mm main chassis as well. It tends to make the car a little easier to setup on asphalt.

A Front one way might be a good thing to have. I dont find much of a benefit for it outdoors. I do like them on indoor asphalt and carpet tracks though.

Since you are running modified, the spool will give you some more forward traction off the corner, and enable you to apply the brakes without the worries of the car just spinning out on you like a one way will. Hope that helps you out some.

-Korey

Quote:
Originally Posted by PhatPat
I have a carpet edition RDX. I'm going to start racing modified rubber tire outdoor on asphalt. What are the must have parts?

2.4mm top deck ?
spool ?
oneway ?
2.4mm chassis ?
etc.
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Old 04-04-2006, 02:14 PM   #6875
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Thanks for your help
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Old 04-04-2006, 02:51 PM   #6876
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pat Clark
Yea but just remember that the top c-hub screw has the ball on it....
DOH! Good thinking. I had not thought of that. Thanks.
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Old 04-04-2006, 03:29 PM   #6877
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Default any pics?

Just finished building a rdx.... very limited space, anyone have a closeup pics on their neat electronics layout????? I'm using spectrum+q2.....

Thanx
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Old 04-04-2006, 04:29 PM   #6878
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i have been using RPM ball cups on the stock balls... works fine, either with original 3mm turnbuckles, or lunsfords. i have one with each....
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Old 04-04-2006, 04:48 PM   #6879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1shnot
Just finished building a rdx.... very limited space, anyone have a closeup pics on their neat electronics layout????? I'm using spectrum+q2.....

Thanx
I run the same set-up. And while I do not have photo's, there will be more than enough room for the ESC and receiver to laying flat on the chassis as opposed to standing them on their side or stacking the receiver on the servo.
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Old 04-04-2006, 06:04 PM   #6880
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kinda stupid question but how do yuo guys get the same steering trow on both sides? mine is always off. even if i do it on my setuop board. any tips or tricks are greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-04-2006, 06:17 PM   #6881
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mine is off also what i do is do litle circle (Full Sterring) onn the track and look how big is the circle you do whit the car!!! do the same thing the other side and if your circle is litle wider you need more dual rate on this side !! do it when your car do the same circle both side!! if your D/R its like 80% one side and 75% they other and your car do the same circle its ok ( for the pro its not ok they ahve to see the same number each side) but for amateur club racer its pretty close just 5% difference

Later!
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Old 04-04-2006, 06:52 PM   #6882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbonium
i have been using RPM ball cups on the stock balls... works fine, either with original 3mm turnbuckles, or lunsfords. i have one with each....

Any problems dialing in more than 1.5* of front camber whn using the upper outer most position on the front lowered shock tower? (ala the McGreevy setup) With the stock turnbuckles and cups the turnbuckle threads in to the cup so far that it distorts the cup and doesn't allow the cup to move freely when I get near 1.5* or so of front camber.
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Old 04-04-2006, 07:00 PM   #6883
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put a set of rear turnbuckles on the front to get more camber, thats what i did
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Old 04-04-2006, 07:19 PM   #6884
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Dang you guys think of everything!!
"Don't foget the upper c-hub screw incorporates the ball stud"
"Try using a rear turnbuckle in the front to get more camber"

Brilliant I say!!
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Old 04-04-2006, 07:28 PM   #6885
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.Hallett
kinda stupid question but how do yuo guys get the same steering trow on both sides? mine is always off. even if i do it on my setuop board. any tips or tricks are greatly appreciated.

Mine is perfect but then again I set aside several hours one night making sure it was so.

The first thing is to make sure the center link that attaches one bell crank to the other is at a length so that the center bellcranks are dead parrallel.

Next you have to make sure the link that attaches the steering servo to the bellcrack is dead accurate as well. With the servo attached to the bellcrank, you need to make sure that the bell cranks are now pointing directly north and south. Do this whith your radio tuned on so you can also center the servo with on the radio making your efforts more accurate.

Once this is set, I made sure that the links that attached the bellcranks to the steering hubs were both identical in length.

Getting the steering perfect can be difficult because no matter what you do for whichever car, there will always be some degree of slop or play. Just take your time, adjust, setup, readjust and resetup. Eventually you will get there.

One point I find very helpfull which I have seen nobody do is the fact that I check my steering on a Hudy setup system with my radio ON. Before taking the reading, I throw the steering wheel on the radio left and then right several times. This makes sure that the servo is center when you take the readings and it also gives you readings that would be more race-condition like than using a dead servo. I find that using a dead servo to make steering adjustments can be difficult because of slop...there will almost always be 1 to several degrees of play or difference with each reading. But with the radio ON and the servo now powered, the steering system, regarless of play will usually always center itself.
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