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Old 03-30-2006, 07:53 AM   #6751
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Everyone can now get back to bugging Jeff and Rob about when the new Arms and offset bulkheads are going to show up.

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Old 03-30-2006, 07:55 AM   #6752
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Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE
You know what, I have an idea. How about just putting oil in the dam shock and try running whats best for you instead of trying to put the big bang thery in place. Who gives a S#@* about volume and displacement. Fill the thing up and run it!
LOL, that will never work Are you telling me you just build the car WITHOUT creating a 3D simulation model of it first??

Whatever next, will you be suggesting we go race and have fun!
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Old 03-30-2006, 08:00 AM   #6753
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Originally Posted by McSmooth
Everyone can now get back to bugging Jeff and Rob about when the new Arms and offset bulkheads are going to show up.

Jeff I heard there was a new car coming out

...j/k ..it had been more than a month that someone asked, so I figured I would
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Old 03-30-2006, 08:03 AM   #6754
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Originally Posted by McSmooth
Yes, I understand that in real world applications, 1 single formula cannot take into account every minute factor that may come along. (Such as manufacturing tolerances in the piston/shock body as mentioned above).

What if someone puts too much oil in? What if there's not enough? What if you lean the shock over more? What if the oil is dirty?

These are the kinds of things that would be barely noticable.

Many have already agreed that cutting .118" off the bottom of the shaft is unnecessary...that was the point of this whole thing. It was then "reasoned" that it was the volume of the oil and the issue of the shaft hitting the bladder. I showed that those 2 were non-issues. I didn't want this to turn into an engineering lesson since it opens up another whole can of worms.

So with that said...I'll repeat. If you want to cut them for the sake of just doing it, go right ahead. It's just not going to make any difference.

That's the end of it.
Yeah but no. If you cut the shaft by whatever amount no matter if it's on the threaded side of it (better do aswell, unless you can re-machine the shaft to get the e-clips in..), you will change the potision for which the shaft will hit the bladder since your overall shaft is shorter, unless you cut the shaft and keep the shocks at the same length.
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Old 03-30-2006, 09:05 AM   #6755
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Volume of shock oil, amount of volume of shock oil, or the size of the shaft within the amount of shock oil.... I really don't know how much effect this has on the performance of the shock nor do I know if the average racer could detect it. If the shock piston hits the bladder, the shock no longer does its job. Any further attempt for the wheel to travel up is now transferred directly into the car and not dampened at all. If you cut 3mm off of the shaft and the piston sits lower in the oil, you gain 3mm of travel before the shock becomes a locked "rod". Does it matter? I don't know. I haven't finished creating my 3D simulation model yet.
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Old 03-30-2006, 09:11 AM   #6756
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Got another question what the best spur size in 64 pitch? on my tc4 im runing a 24/72 48 pitch so what would i need to run in 64 pitch to get that same or round about drive ratio? like 28 is what im guessing if i use around a 110 spur gear or should i use a bigger spur like 120 or something? thanks
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Old 03-30-2006, 09:24 AM   #6757
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You're running your TC4 at a 7.5 FDR, so for your RDX, 64 pitch with a 110 spur you would need a 29 tooth pinion for a 7.59 FDR, or with a 120 spur you would need a 32 tooth pinion for a 7.50 FDR
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Old 03-30-2006, 09:49 AM   #6758
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarshGuy
You're running your TC4 at a 7.5 FDR, so for your RDX, 64 pitch with a 110 spur you would need a 29 tooth pinion for a 7.59 FDR, or with a 120 spur you would need a 32 tooth pinion for a 7.50 FDR
AAAARRRRGGGGGHHHHHH!!!! You mean now I HAVE TO reprogram my brain from Rollout mode to Final Drive mode?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?.........

What was that website again?
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Old 03-30-2006, 11:04 AM   #6759
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AAAARRRRGGGGGHHHHHH!!!! You mean now I HAVE TO reprogram my brain from Rollout mode to Final Drive mode?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?.........

What was that website again?
Rollout for life
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Old 03-30-2006, 02:45 PM   #6760
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post removed due to spam

Last edited by Speedo; 03-30-2006 at 06:37 PM.
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Old 03-30-2006, 03:44 PM   #6761
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thanks guys for the help...
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Old 03-30-2006, 04:39 PM   #6762
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Is there a new RDX car coming out soon I dont want to buy the one out now if there is a new down the pipe
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Old 03-30-2006, 05:23 PM   #6763
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Nope, no new car any time soon. We just do little tweaks here and there and make those parts running changes in the kits. Those newer parts are always available sepreately as well. This allows the racers that have an older kit to upgrade to some of the newer parts easily.

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Old 03-30-2006, 08:41 PM   #6764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarshGuy
Jeff I heard there was a new car coming out

...j/k ..it had been more than a month that someone asked, so I figured I would
Oh great. Now you have done it.

I will forward all the emails, PMs and phone calls to you to answer since you started it.

Jeff
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Old 03-30-2006, 11:33 PM   #6765
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Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
Oh great. Now you have done it.

I will forward all the emails, PMs and phone calls to you to answer since you started it.

Jeff
Actually, no-one will probably reply to this...however I've got a good idea. Why doesn't Corally come out with an "upgrade package." To upgrade the car with all of the improved parts in one fell swoop.

The package could include a set of the new arms, the lowered shock towers, new motor bulkhead, bushings for those who want them for the Al steering knuckles and new modular bulkheads for easy access to diffs, etc.

They could label the kits as say the Mk2 upgrade package. So when someone asks what car you have, you could say "I have an RDX Mk2." It would be a nice change of pace from Corally and Specialized RC coming out with different parts and generally making a confusing mess out of things.

Of course, this would cut down on the killing the two above mentioned companies make on replacement parts.

I mean C'mon...$90.00 FREAKING dollars for a motor mount !?!?!?

Oh wait...even better! Don't forget the $40.00
cheap motherboard fan and piece of metal!
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