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Old 03-08-2006, 11:25 AM   #6196
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As i said before and i see Brian has stepped up and so will the guys from this shop....whatever help we can give Jeff and Rob will be done...

Jim
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Old 03-08-2006, 11:31 AM   #6197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BritRacer
There is the corally company forum, surely one of the threads in there could a discription of the optional or upgraded parts and the reason for them.
Excellent idea.
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Old 03-08-2006, 11:47 AM   #6198
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wow - an RC company that listens....i am not sure what to do with myself....this is so foreign to me....

thanks for getting the ball rolling on all this, i think it is a great idea and i know many people will benefit from it...

marc
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Old 03-08-2006, 11:51 AM   #6199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. McGoo
wow - an RC company that listens....i am not sure what to do with myself....this is so foreign to me....

thanks for getting the ball rolling on all this, i think it is a great idea and i know many people will benefit from it...

marc
In the Manufacturer's forum I think specific threads for questions would be great. No digging around for them. They will naturally hide themselves if they become more than 30 days old and the popular ones will always show up.

Seems like the best solution IMO.

Jeff
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Old 03-08-2006, 12:04 PM   #6200
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i do have a question that some one around their RDX can help me with. I am getting Larry from www.teamtamale.com make me up some lowered shock collars so I don't have to cut my pistons.






Does anyone know the width of piece of the plastic ball end (part #79229) that fits in the shock collar. I don't have my car or calipers with me, and if someone can help a brotha out i would appreciate it.
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Old 03-08-2006, 12:06 PM   #6201
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took me 10mins
This is just to show how easy it is.

http://www.harshdesign.com/xmb/index.php
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Old 03-08-2006, 12:08 PM   #6202
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Holy crap Andy. Your crazy fast...or that is really easy.
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Old 03-08-2006, 12:11 PM   #6203
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those that know, know.
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Old 03-08-2006, 12:23 PM   #6204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goodHANDLE100
I have had enough on this car... its gone... you would think that there would be more support with the car... its the most delicate car. Plus i dont like how they advertise all there Stock wins when no one else was even in the class to race them.
It's delicate if you crash a lot any car is delicate. Maybe you need a TT01. I haven't broken a part on my car since I bought it in Dec. I bought a second car no problems.
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Old 03-08-2006, 12:35 PM   #6205
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You can also post here and while your at it visit the online store for Much More products.

http://raincityraceway.com/Forums/sh...?p=226#post226
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Old 03-08-2006, 12:59 PM   #6206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Number 11
It's delicate if you crash a lot any car is delicate. Maybe you need a TT01. I haven't broken a part on my car since I bought it in Dec. I bought a second car no problems.
I would also suggest maybe foam cushions all around the car if he is having problems contacting the boards...LOL
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Old 03-08-2006, 01:01 PM   #6207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
Correct. They are called "low" blocks. Reason being is it is the only optional block available. Somehow through racers or whatever, they got dubbed "ultra low" because it was lower than anything available out of the box.

BTW...... they induce more roll into a setup.

Jeff
They're called "optional ultralow" on Jeff Cuffs' setup sheets. That's probably the source of confusion for the layman.
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Old 03-08-2006, 01:44 PM   #6208
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can someone post a pic of how they mounted the motorguard/fan. where they dremeled ect.
Thanks
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Old 03-08-2006, 02:13 PM   #6209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BritRacer
took me 10mins
This is just to show how easy it is.

http://www.harshdesign.com/xmb/index.php
BritRacer for PREZ!!!!
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Old 03-08-2006, 02:35 PM   #6210
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Default FAQ Submission: Diff Screws

Category: Part Replacement
Reason: Design Flaw

The original diff screw included with the RDX was found to be prone to breakage. This was especially troublesome since removing the broken part of the screw from the short diff half was extremely difficult. Also, the plastic "tab" in the short diff half isn't available separately, so people were forced to buy an expensive new diff half to solve this problem with no promise of having the screw not break again.

Corally addressed this problem by releasing a new diff screw that was thicker near the screw head (where most of the stress happens) and without the threads, since they're not required on that portion of the screw. No reports of broken diff screws have been heard using the new design.

Although the plastic tab in the diff half isn't available for purchase, Corally USA was given some of them to provide to racers. To obtain this piece, call Corally USA (407-681-5905) to place your parts order, and indicate that you need some new tabs. They will include them in your order (free of charge) as long as they're available.

Many racers ask about how to remove the plastic tab from the short diff half. The best method we've heard of is to heat the aluminum diff half with a lighter, and then gently tap out the plastic tab. The heat causes the aluminum to expand slightly, making it much easier to remove the plastic piece.

The newly designed diff screw is a replacement of the old one, and has been included in all new kits. It is also available separately in a package of two (Part: COR77162) or in the diff rebuild kit (Part: COR79161).

As of the writing of this article, the product pictures on Corally USA's site don't reflect the design of the new screw, although the new part is included. Here's a picture to help you with visual comparison:

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