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Old 02-18-2006, 03:19 PM   #5866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sushi Boy
The motor guard/fan mount is available right now. So are the narrow rear hub carriers, and the 3 deg caster blocks as far as I know. The New suspension arms will be here soon. I'm not sure about the sp12X though. Hopefully soon because I cant wait to start running one.

-Korey
What will the narrow hub carriers do for the car?
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Old 02-18-2006, 03:31 PM   #5867
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It was originally designed to be used when you use large amounts of rear toe in. when you add shims on the rear mount of the rear arms to add toe in it widens the car out too much. To keep the car within the 190mm max width corally developed these so it stays within that limit.

Generally speaking though, when you narrow the rear end it free's up a bit.

-Korey
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Old 02-18-2006, 03:43 PM   #5868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sushi Boy
It was originally designed to be used when you use large amounts of rear toe in. when you add shims on the rear mount of the rear arms to add toe in it widens the car out too much. To keep the car within the 190mm max width corally developed these so it stays within that limit.

Generally speaking though, when you narrow the rear end it free's up a bit.

-Korey
Cool. Would this be a big change? or a fine tuning adjustment?
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Old 02-18-2006, 03:48 PM   #5869
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More fine tuning in my opinion.
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Old 02-18-2006, 04:03 PM   #5870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electro-MAX RC
To clarify, do you want to add the spacers (~4mm) to lower the ballstud on the steering block (out toward the wheels) or the bellcranks (mechanism over the drive belts)? What does this allow the car to do again and why?

Thanks!
by the wheel i believe to reduce bumpsteer
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Old 02-18-2006, 07:12 PM   #5871
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sushi Boy
The motor guard/fan mount is available right now. So are the narrow rear hub carriers, and the 3 deg caster blocks as far as I know. The New suspension arms will be here soon. I'm not sure about the sp12X though. Hopefully soon because I cant wait to start running one.

-Korey
Would you happen to know the part numbers?
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Old 02-18-2006, 07:15 PM   #5872
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Not off the top of my head. You can do a search on corally USA's website anbd they should pop up though.

-Korey
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Old 02-18-2006, 07:18 PM   #5873
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Hey Korey, Any luck with that new Integy 19 turn? I know this isn't the 19 turn thread but wanted to check on you anyway. Rollouts, performance, anything?
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Old 02-18-2006, 10:32 PM   #5874
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corally.com has been updated with the leaflets and information about the new arms. Here's a video:

http://international.corally.com/movies/wb1.wmv
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Old 02-18-2006, 10:56 PM   #5875
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Yeah it's fast. It;'s a pain to build though. you can't tighten the endbell too tight or else it warps and shorts out. I geared it at 108/38 on a 70 ft long indoor carpet track with 56.5mm tires. It can take a huge gear lol. F brushes or 767's, cavity them, and run red springs.

-Korey
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Old 02-18-2006, 11:23 PM   #5876
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE
Would you happen to know the part numbers?
79263.

Jeff
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Old 02-19-2006, 05:42 AM   #5877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LANCEisaCRACKER
so i can put the 4mm ball studs on the steering BELLCRANK, or the ball cup[s that connect to the hub carrieers to the bellcrank?

thanks
On the front hub ! If you put them under the bellcrank you will make things worse.

Last edited by TRF415boy; 02-19-2006 at 06:35 AM.
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Old 02-19-2006, 06:35 AM   #5878
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
At any rate, thanks for answering our concerns, Corally. You have proven yet again that your customer's faith is well-founded.
Better late than never, this arm breakage problem had been going on since the Assassin days (how long ago was the Assassin released ? 4 years or something like that ?)... Seems like someone have finally been able to have them understand the profile and not the material was the cause.
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Old 02-19-2006, 08:21 AM   #5879
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ok sounds like a good idea about the bumpsteer. im gonna see if i can get them ball studs to only put on the two hubs itself. thanks
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Old 02-19-2006, 02:51 PM   #5880
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Default Carpet with rubber tires help please

Hi all,

I've run the RDX twice now and must say i quite like it

First time out i used the Steve Lissamore "DMS" set-up barring the shock pistons which i don't have (he says to use "Tamiya 3") part number would be appreciated. The car felt very stable and easy to drive but i felt it was lacking Mid corner, it just wouldn't rotate quite fast enough in the very middle of the corner on a neutral throttle.

Second time out i changed things around to Chris Kerswell's "DMS" set-up again barring the Shock pistons but felt with the full 6deg of caster it was pushing on corner entry before being abit loose there after.

Anyway of the 2 i preferred Steve's set-up but need to get somemore mid corner rotation , just wonder what your idea's might be ??

I'm sure both set-up sheets can be found on Helgar racings site if you dont already have them

My idea's are thinner front shock oil, raise the inner front camber link , take off the anti dive but use 4deg caster blocks instead of 6 . one at a time of course but i'd like to know what you think i should do first ??

Also would the Tamiya pistons soften it up much (much more responsive?) ?? is there a large difference between them and the std. corally ones ??

Cheers guy

Oh. This is a great thread loads of info in it
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