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Old 02-13-2006, 09:13 PM   #5821
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Wow, those new arms look evil.
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Old 02-13-2006, 09:27 PM   #5822
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New lightened servo mounts and rounded 1.3mm shock pistons too.
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Old 02-13-2006, 09:27 PM   #5823
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What's the difference with the new arms and the older arms? They look like the same length except for the extra hole. So why would the front and rear arms different. I liked the idea of buying a pack of arms and not worrying if its for the front, rear or left or right. It's simple but if its a little stronger I can break something else right?
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Old 02-13-2006, 09:47 PM   #5824
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so there is multiple versions of the new arms to eliminate the extensions, but there is still going to be a standard arm, good to know, learn something everyday.

i still have yet to figure out the whole extension thing, i used it, didnt like how it felt, and now i run a rollcenter that no one would even imagine running on pavement with rubber tire. i just like the feel of a symetrical suspension with symetrical suspension geometries front and rear, the car feels more consistant in transistions from on to off power to me for some reason
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Old 02-13-2006, 10:48 PM   #5825
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I'm only guessing here, but I imagine Corally won't do away with the old arms. These appear to be marketed as an option for people that are struggling with arm breakage. As long as the geometry is the same, I'll probably put the new ones in the front and keep the old arms in back (I have a huge supply) since I never break those.

At any rate, thanks for answering our concerns, Corally. You have proven yet again that your customer's faith is well-founded.
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Old 02-14-2006, 07:35 AM   #5826
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Well untill the new arms come ill be using the old ones. Won 4 of them for 8.60 brand new, bargin

Wills
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Old 02-14-2006, 01:09 PM   #5827
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the new arm will fit left to rigth!! and like i said with the new arm you can run softer spring in the back and your car gonna more dialed like a lot of team driver tell me!!! i think im gonna buy those arm and its not because i broke a lot them( i broke like 5 or 6 og them in one years) just because i want them!!

Later
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Old 02-15-2006, 05:54 AM   #5828
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Default Couplers mod??

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sushi Boy
It should help in the middle of the corner mostly. When you put arm sweep in the car it puts the hinge pins at an angle, thus making the suspension less efficient. Because the suspension doesnt move as easily, it prevents weight from being transfered to the rear in the middle and exit of the corner when rolling on the throttle. It tones down entry a tiny bit too.

-Korey
Hi,

since I am not a native speaker perhaps I am missing the point.
Is this mod about puting shims under the steering ball cup to eliminate power steering (steering turnbuckle remains paralel) or is something else?

thanks in advance

Cy
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Old 02-15-2006, 08:05 AM   #5829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drcy
Hi,

since I am not a native speaker perhaps I am missing the point.
Is this mod about puting shims under the steering ball cup to eliminate power steering (steering turnbuckle remains paralel) or is something else?

thanks in advance

Cy
He was refering to arm sweep where you put more shims under the front front hinge blocks than the rear to create a sweeped look on the arm.
I run arm sweep to also make the CVD's equal to the diff out drives as to help with any rubbing. The Spool's put alot of force on the CVD's so any attempt to help reduce wearing is going to help.
Now about the shims under the steering ball studs....Never seen it done on a RDX...Seems the steering is setup perfect.
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Old 02-15-2006, 08:54 AM   #5830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
Now about the shims under the steering ball studs....Never seen it done on a RDX...Seems the steering is setup perfect.
-Shookie <><
Actually if you have a closer look the standard setup on an RDX it has a huge amount of bump steer, ie toe out as the suspension compresses.
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Old 02-15-2006, 09:24 AM   #5831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robfo
Actually if you have a closer look the standard setup on an RDX it has a huge amount of bump steer, ie toe out as the suspension compresses.
I was refering to all my setups...LOL
Just messing with you now....
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Old 02-15-2006, 10:26 AM   #5832
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Ok what i mean is the standard setup of the steering links without and extra spacers. I run mine with about 5mm under the steering block. I think it gives me more mid corner steering.
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Old 02-15-2006, 11:25 AM   #5833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robfo
Ok what i mean is the standard setup of the steering links without and extra spacers. I run mine with about 5mm under the steering block. I think it gives me more mid corner steering.
Yes, I believe most of the team drivers put different ballstuds on. If you use the rear camberlink ballstuds I believe that will drop it down about 4mm or so to help with the bump steer. I have it on all my cars.

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Old 02-15-2006, 02:01 PM   #5834
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Default build-up tips

As an oval guy I'm aware of some things you can do when building a new kit to help eliminate bind or other unwanted issues. As a complete newbie to this kit can anyone offer advice as to small tricks that will benefit down the road or produce a more trouble free introduction? I see tips on cutting the shock shafts down, running Associated spring perches and already am aware of the graphite sanding/prep...but are there steps along the way that some of you guys check tweak....take a measurement...flip a ball cup or anything different that may "supertune" this already great kit? Also...if I dig back a number of pages I'm sure I'll find the list of must have spares...so I'll consider that a done deal when building. Last thing....are the new diff screws worth putting on an original build or is it best to wait to avoid a quick rebuild? This will be a carpet only ride so I try and concentrate on the things that you guys have learned on the rug. Thanks for the help...and I'll say this waaaay in advance....thanks Jeff for your input already.
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Old 02-15-2006, 02:10 PM   #5835
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If you cut the shafts down and cut the shock ends, you can run the stock spring perches. As far as build goes...there really isn't a whole lot to it, just build it like the manual says . Only thing...don't overtighten the screws for the clamp hexes. Tighten them till their just snug, and that's it.
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