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Old 02-08-2006, 04:38 PM   #5716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merciless
Ok thanks Steve can you tell me why you all seem to be using the tamiya pistons too please ??

Also on YOUR set-up i have found that your using "3 droop" is that 3mm of rise from you set-ride height before the stops hit or measured on a droop gauge and if measured on a gauge do you use the hubs or wishbones to set it from please ?? I've always measured droop in mm rise from the set ride height....


Cheers
I found that the pistons seemed to help the smooth out the car on some of the outdoor tracks with bumps, I kept them in the shocks for the indoor season and they seem to work fine.

I measured the droop with a Losi droop gauge to the wishbone. I belive that Chris measures his droop in the same way that you do, I am going to start measuring mine in the same way as it seems to be a more accurate way of doing it.
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Old 02-08-2006, 04:47 PM   #5717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fervidsea
Why would you want to run another type or make of shock? What is wrong with the corally ones?
The Tamiya shocks are smaller in diameter, allowing you to run more dual-rate without the tires rubbing on the shock collars.
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Old 02-08-2006, 04:53 PM   #5718
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If you guys need that much wheel travel to get the car to steer, your car isn't setup right, sorry to tell you. That much throw just makes the car scrub speed in corners. On low bite carpet (regular practice/race days) with 28 mm foam tires I still have around 3 mm of clearance between shock (corally) and rim at full lock. When the grip comes up, or at a big race, I usually turn down the dual rate even more.
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Old 02-08-2006, 04:58 PM   #5719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
If you guys need that much wheel travel to get the car to steer, your car isn't setup right, sorry to tell you. That much throw just makes the car scrub speed in corners. On low bite carpet (regular practice/race days) with 28 mm foam tires I still have around 3 mm of clearance between shock (corally) and rim at full lock. When the grip comes up, or at a big race, I usually turn down the dual rate even more.
Yes, plus the quality of the Corally shocks is top notch. I dont really see a need in switching to Tamiya shocks. Brian, like you, I have a good ammount of clearance at full throw and I still have plenty of turn in.
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Old 02-08-2006, 07:09 PM   #5720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricO3
The Tamiya shocks are smaller in diameter, allowing you to run more dual-rate without the tires rubbing on the shock collars.
No offense but if you have to switch to smaller shocks to get more steering out of this car, you are better off working on your set-up first cause there is definately something wrong with it!

Last edited by koabich; 02-08-2006 at 07:11 PM. Reason: Sorry, didn't see Brian's comment posted before mine!
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Old 02-08-2006, 07:17 PM   #5721
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koabich,

Read EricO3's above post.
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Old 02-08-2006, 07:58 PM   #5722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
koabich,

Read EricO3's above post.
Got it! Thanks Brian!
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Old 02-08-2006, 08:06 PM   #5723
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What body shell do you factory and local guys use for Aspahlt Racing? Stratus 3.0 AP? Ride Accord? or some other brand? and why? Thank you
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Old 02-08-2006, 08:12 PM   #5724
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I use the mazda most of the time. Stratus 3.0 is good too. The ride accord is really nice when you need a lot of steering.

-Korey
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Old 02-08-2006, 08:29 PM   #5725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sushi Boy
I use the mazda most of the time. Stratus 3.0 is good too. The ride accord is really nice when you need a lot of steering.

-Korey
Thanks Corey. I've been running the Ride Accord and Ride Stratus MarkIII, I'll be testing the Protoform Stratus 3.0 AP hopefully by next week.
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Old 02-08-2006, 09:53 PM   #5726
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It'll just feel really stuck compared to the ride accord. I race on a really tight indoor track when I run asphalt, and the grip is super high. The Mazda is just a nice neutral body to start with, and the ride accord is something I go to when I need to free up the car a touch.

-Korey
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Old 02-08-2006, 09:56 PM   #5727
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
I just finished my car for the Birds and I moved the shocks into the middle hole on the front arms, and the 3rd hold in on the tower. I did this to get the steering throw back into the car as it will hit the shocks otherwise. I will also put about 1 deg of toe out on the car as well.

Jeff
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
If you guys need that much wheel travel to get the car to steer, your car isn't setup right, sorry to tell you. That much throw just makes the car scrub speed in corners. On low bite carpet (regular practice/race days) with 28 mm foam tires I still have around 3 mm of clearance between shock (corally) and rim at full lock. When the grip comes up, or at a big race, I usually turn down the dual rate even more.
Brain... hurting... must... stop. Which is it?
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Old 02-08-2006, 10:33 PM   #5728
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Do what you feel is right. All I know is the way I have it put my car in the A at the Novak race so I must be doing something right. Just trying to pass on the knowledge...
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Old 02-08-2006, 11:52 PM   #5729
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Ah, Brian, I'm sorry, I meant no harm. I have nothing but respect for you and Jeff, and your accomplishments in R/C. It was just interesting hearing conflicting statements from two people who are so successful in the hobby. It seems, as always, that there are a lot of ways to have great success.

I personally prefer to use as little steering as possible. On carpet especially, it seems like more steering leads to bad habits, where having less (or the right amount) forces you to take proper lines to get through turns. For someone that's still learning to drive, I find getting around the track with less steering yields better results (at least in terms of taking the right lines, and car control) than having more steering.

Anyway, thanks to both of you for your advice. I'll try to get my head around it all and find what works best for me.
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Old 02-09-2006, 03:42 AM   #5730
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its stated in the manual in the camber link locations :

" The longer or higher the link the more traction and less stability, The shorter or lower the link, less traction and greater stability "

i was just wondering what's the definition of stability in realtion to traction?

thanks -jason
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