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Old 02-07-2006, 03:38 PM   #5671
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The reason for the narrow rear uprights is that running 2 deg or more of rear toe in with the stock hexes and foam tires makes the car wider than the max legal width of 190 mm. And narrow hexes break too easily.


Maybe I'm missing something, but WHY does Corally insist on using these silly clamping hexes???!!!??? WHY NOT JUST MAKE SOLID HEXES LIKE AE, LOSI, HPI, ETC???? There is NO NEED for overly complex, under-engineered clamping hexes. Does Tamiya sell a solid hex that's the right depth that will work on the RDX? I can't believe that someone hasn't found a better hex from another company that works better.
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Old 02-07-2006, 04:44 PM   #5672
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Hi all , I'm new to the RDX having used X-ray and Hpi in the past. I'm now getting her set-up and finding something with the suspension strange ....

With the std. 17lb springs front and rear , 50wt oil in the front and 40wt in the rear. Front shocks mounted 1 hole in at the top and all the way out on the suspension arms. At the rear 2 holes in at the top and out on the corally extensions on the arms.

The rear of my car feels much stiffer than the front when proforming the "push the shock tower" test. This is with the car fully loaded and ready to race.ride heights set and tweak all correct.

This dosen't seem right as usually i'd expect the front to be slightly stiffer than the back

I've tried changing the springing but even with 14.5 on the rear and 19 up front i'd still say the balance is still towards the rear being harder ...... is something wrong or is this the way i need to have the car set ??

Please help guys i really want this to go right "out the box" cheers
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Old 02-07-2006, 05:01 PM   #5673
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Yeah it does seem strange at first but if you are running off the shock extensions on the rear then the rear will seem harder due to the shock being further out on the arm, don't worry about it. All the UK team run the car like this.
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Old 02-07-2006, 05:12 PM   #5674
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Sorry i didn't mean it's strange that it feels like this as like you say with the extensions you'd expect it ......... it just dosen't seem right to have the rear set-up harder than the front and by a fair amount too

i've now got to 22lb's on the front and 14.5lb on the rear and i'm getting a more even "feel"

But with a Chris Kerswell set-up sheet from the DMS infront of me saying 17lb front and rear i'm thinking something must be wrong as if i put 17's front and rear the front is like half as stiff as the rear

I'm looking to get it set-up for sorex 24r's indoors on medium grip carpet.
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Old 02-07-2006, 05:27 PM   #5675
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Honestly guys.... I never really pay attention to static feel. I always just do changes as needed on the track. If it's weird, but it's dialed..... I dont worry about it. Just wheel it!!!! But that stiffer feeling in the rear is caused by the extensions. Some of the team guys are even using longer extensions and it makes the rear feel rock hard if you use the same springs.

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Old 02-07-2006, 05:32 PM   #5676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merciless
Hi all , I'm new to the RDX having used X-ray and Hpi in the past. I'm now getting her set-up and finding something with the suspension strange ....

With the std. 17lb springs front and rear , 50wt oil in the front and 40wt in the rear. Front shocks mounted 1 hole in at the top and all the way out on the suspension arms. At the rear 2 holes in at the top and out on the corally extensions on the arms.

The rear of my car feels much stiffer than the front when proforming the "push the shock tower" test. This is with the car fully loaded and ready to race.ride heights set and tweak all correct.

This dosen't seem right as usually i'd expect the front to be slightly stiffer than the back

I've tried changing the springing but even with 14.5 on the rear and 19 up front i'd still say the balance is still towards the rear being harder ...... is something wrong or is this the way i need to have the car set ??

Please help guys i really want this to go right "out the box" cheers
The extentions take away the mechanical leverage on the shock. My car feels the same way....different spring "rates" because I am currently running on carpet but the rear "feels" stiffer than the front. It is nothing to worry about.....
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Old 02-07-2006, 05:33 PM   #5677
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Yep, both Chris and I run 17lb all round at DMS. I have tried the car without the rear shock extensions to even it up but it seems to cause the rear to snatch mid corner. I have never run the Sorex tires indoors but would assume that they are not too dissmilar to the Lrp's?!? I can only sugest to try Chris's setup and go from there as the DMS setup is pretty good.
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Old 02-07-2006, 07:13 PM   #5678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merciless
The rear of my car feels much stiffer than the front when proforming the "push the shock tower" test. Please help guys i really want this to go right "out the box" cheers
I've been running mine for about a year now. This was one of the first things that I noticed also. But I couldn't argue with the way the car felt on the track. It was very smooth and seemed to flow well. The car also felt "slow" to me but the lap times showed different. Like they said, don't worry about the static feel, worry about how it feels on the track.
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Old 02-07-2006, 07:35 PM   #5679
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Anyone breaking camber links I broke a couple now and was wondering if I should order lots or is it just a fluke?
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Old 02-07-2006, 07:44 PM   #5680
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subman, you just have to put your camber link in titanium...you can order the lenght you want from lunsford.

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Old 02-07-2006, 07:49 PM   #5681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stiltskin
I've been running mine for about a year now. This was one of the first things that I noticed also. But I couldn't argue with the way the car felt on the track. It was very smooth and seemed to flow well. The car also felt "slow" to me but the lap times showed different. Like they said, don't worry about the static feel, worry about how it feels on the track.
I would have to say that has been the case wiuth every single car I've owned. The rear has always felt heavier even when it has been much lighter.
Probably a geometry thing!
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Old 02-07-2006, 08:15 PM   #5682
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Hi Guys, New to the RDX and have a question with the build:

When I tighten the set screws in the c-hubs and rear uprights it eliminates any slop but it binds the suspension as the hinge pins are tight in the arms. I'd like to eliminate the e-clips on the outer hinge pins..do you guys use a reamer on the arms to allow the outer pins to move freely?

Thanks
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Old 02-07-2006, 08:21 PM   #5683
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For the hinge pins, I usually use 1500 grit sandpaper and then 2000 grit sand paper to make them smooth and just a tad smaller. I also used a drill bit (one that barely slid in the arm hole, can't remember the size) and ran it through the arms in and out.
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Old 02-07-2006, 08:29 PM   #5684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ralph m
Hi Guys, New to the RDX and have a question with the build:

When I tighten the set screws in the c-hubs and rear uprights it eliminates any slop but it binds the suspension as the hinge pins are tight in the arms. I'd like to eliminate the e-clips on the outer hinge pins..do you guys use a reamer on the arms to allow the outer pins to move freely?

Thanks
I didn't seem to have that problem with mine...there were perfect. But yeah, you would want to use a drill bit to enlarge them slightly. Remember to do a little bit at a time as you do not want to make the holes too large!
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Old 02-07-2006, 08:36 PM   #5685
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealth_RT
The reason for the narrow rear uprights is that running 2 deg or more of rear toe in with the stock hexes and foam tires makes the car wider than the max legal width of 190 mm. And narrow hexes break too easily.


Maybe I'm missing something, but WHY does Corally insist on using these silly clamping hexes???!!!??? WHY NOT JUST MAKE SOLID HEXES LIKE AE, LOSI, HPI, ETC???? There is NO NEED for overly complex, under-engineered clamping hexes. Does Tamiya sell a solid hex that's the right depth that will work on the RDX? I can't believe that someone hasn't found a better hex from another company that works better.
Ummm...my TC3 and TC4's all used clamping hexes. My 415's all had clamping hexes. My Schumachers also had clamping hexes. I don't think they are silly and I think you would have a hard time finding others that feel the same as you do.

Solid hexes are a pain in the but and can be difficult to take off and put on. Keep in mind that the Corally Hexes only have to be very lightly snugged. Do not do as the name suggests and "clamp" them down as they will break.
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