Team Corally RDX Touring Car
#5671
The reason for the narrow rear uprights is that running 2 deg or more of rear toe in with the stock hexes and foam tires makes the car wider than the max legal width of 190 mm. And narrow hexes break too easily.
Maybe I'm missing something, but WHY does Corally insist on using these silly clamping hexes???!!!??? WHY NOT JUST MAKE SOLID HEXES LIKE AE, LOSI, HPI, ETC???? There is NO NEED for overly complex, under-engineered clamping hexes. Does Tamiya sell a solid hex that's the right depth that will work on the RDX? I can't believe that someone hasn't found a better hex from another company that works better.
Maybe I'm missing something, but WHY does Corally insist on using these silly clamping hexes???!!!??? WHY NOT JUST MAKE SOLID HEXES LIKE AE, LOSI, HPI, ETC???? There is NO NEED for overly complex, under-engineered clamping hexes. Does Tamiya sell a solid hex that's the right depth that will work on the RDX? I can't believe that someone hasn't found a better hex from another company that works better.
#5672
Hi all , I'm new to the RDX having used X-ray and Hpi in the past. I'm now getting her set-up and finding something with the suspension strange ....
With the std. 17lb springs front and rear , 50wt oil in the front and 40wt in the rear. Front shocks mounted 1 hole in at the top and all the way out on the suspension arms. At the rear 2 holes in at the top and out on the corally extensions on the arms.
The rear of my car feels much stiffer than the front when proforming the "push the shock tower" test. This is with the car fully loaded and ready to race.ride heights set and tweak all correct.
This dosen't seem right as usually i'd expect the front to be slightly stiffer than the back
I've tried changing the springing but even with 14.5 on the rear and 19 up front i'd still say the balance is still towards the rear being harder ...... is something wrong or is this the way i need to have the car set ??
Please help guys i really want this to go right "out the box" cheers
With the std. 17lb springs front and rear , 50wt oil in the front and 40wt in the rear. Front shocks mounted 1 hole in at the top and all the way out on the suspension arms. At the rear 2 holes in at the top and out on the corally extensions on the arms.
The rear of my car feels much stiffer than the front when proforming the "push the shock tower" test. This is with the car fully loaded and ready to race.ride heights set and tweak all correct.
This dosen't seem right as usually i'd expect the front to be slightly stiffer than the back
I've tried changing the springing but even with 14.5 on the rear and 19 up front i'd still say the balance is still towards the rear being harder ...... is something wrong or is this the way i need to have the car set ??
Please help guys i really want this to go right "out the box" cheers
#5674
Sorry i didn't mean it's strange that it feels like this as like you say with the extensions you'd expect it ......... it just dosen't seem right to have the rear set-up harder than the front and by a fair amount too
i've now got to 22lb's on the front and 14.5lb on the rear and i'm getting a more even "feel"
But with a Chris Kerswell set-up sheet from the DMS infront of me saying 17lb front and rear i'm thinking something must be wrong as if i put 17's front and rear the front is like half as stiff as the rear
I'm looking to get it set-up for sorex 24r's indoors on medium grip carpet.
i've now got to 22lb's on the front and 14.5lb on the rear and i'm getting a more even "feel"
But with a Chris Kerswell set-up sheet from the DMS infront of me saying 17lb front and rear i'm thinking something must be wrong as if i put 17's front and rear the front is like half as stiff as the rear
I'm looking to get it set-up for sorex 24r's indoors on medium grip carpet.
#5675
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Honestly guys.... I never really pay attention to static feel. I always just do changes as needed on the track. If it's weird, but it's dialed..... I dont worry about it. Just wheel it!!!! But that stiffer feeling in the rear is caused by the extensions. Some of the team guys are even using longer extensions and it makes the rear feel rock hard if you use the same springs.
-Korey
-Korey
#5676
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
Originally Posted by Merciless
Hi all , I'm new to the RDX having used X-ray and Hpi in the past. I'm now getting her set-up and finding something with the suspension strange ....
With the std. 17lb springs front and rear , 50wt oil in the front and 40wt in the rear. Front shocks mounted 1 hole in at the top and all the way out on the suspension arms. At the rear 2 holes in at the top and out on the corally extensions on the arms.
The rear of my car feels much stiffer than the front when proforming the "push the shock tower" test. This is with the car fully loaded and ready to race.ride heights set and tweak all correct.
This dosen't seem right as usually i'd expect the front to be slightly stiffer than the back
I've tried changing the springing but even with 14.5 on the rear and 19 up front i'd still say the balance is still towards the rear being harder ...... is something wrong or is this the way i need to have the car set ??
Please help guys i really want this to go right "out the box" cheers
With the std. 17lb springs front and rear , 50wt oil in the front and 40wt in the rear. Front shocks mounted 1 hole in at the top and all the way out on the suspension arms. At the rear 2 holes in at the top and out on the corally extensions on the arms.
The rear of my car feels much stiffer than the front when proforming the "push the shock tower" test. This is with the car fully loaded and ready to race.ride heights set and tweak all correct.
This dosen't seem right as usually i'd expect the front to be slightly stiffer than the back
I've tried changing the springing but even with 14.5 on the rear and 19 up front i'd still say the balance is still towards the rear being harder ...... is something wrong or is this the way i need to have the car set ??
Please help guys i really want this to go right "out the box" cheers
#5677
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Yep, both Chris and I run 17lb all round at DMS. I have tried the car without the rear shock extensions to even it up but it seems to cause the rear to snatch mid corner. I have never run the Sorex tires indoors but would assume that they are not too dissmilar to the Lrp's?!? I can only sugest to try Chris's setup and go from there as the DMS setup is pretty good.
#5678
Tech Champion
iTrader: (103)
Originally Posted by Merciless
The rear of my car feels much stiffer than the front when proforming the "push the shock tower" test. Please help guys i really want this to go right "out the box" cheers
#5681
Originally Posted by stiltskin
I've been running mine for about a year now. This was one of the first things that I noticed also. But I couldn't argue with the way the car felt on the track. It was very smooth and seemed to flow well. The car also felt "slow" to me but the lap times showed different. Like they said, don't worry about the static feel, worry about how it feels on the track.
Probably a geometry thing!
#5682
Hi Guys, New to the RDX and have a question with the build:
When I tighten the set screws in the c-hubs and rear uprights it eliminates any slop but it binds the suspension as the hinge pins are tight in the arms. I'd like to eliminate the e-clips on the outer hinge pins..do you guys use a reamer on the arms to allow the outer pins to move freely?
Thanks
When I tighten the set screws in the c-hubs and rear uprights it eliminates any slop but it binds the suspension as the hinge pins are tight in the arms. I'd like to eliminate the e-clips on the outer hinge pins..do you guys use a reamer on the arms to allow the outer pins to move freely?
Thanks
#5684
Originally Posted by ralph m
Hi Guys, New to the RDX and have a question with the build:
When I tighten the set screws in the c-hubs and rear uprights it eliminates any slop but it binds the suspension as the hinge pins are tight in the arms. I'd like to eliminate the e-clips on the outer hinge pins..do you guys use a reamer on the arms to allow the outer pins to move freely?
Thanks
When I tighten the set screws in the c-hubs and rear uprights it eliminates any slop but it binds the suspension as the hinge pins are tight in the arms. I'd like to eliminate the e-clips on the outer hinge pins..do you guys use a reamer on the arms to allow the outer pins to move freely?
Thanks
#5685
Originally Posted by Stealth_RT
The reason for the narrow rear uprights is that running 2 deg or more of rear toe in with the stock hexes and foam tires makes the car wider than the max legal width of 190 mm. And narrow hexes break too easily.
Maybe I'm missing something, but WHY does Corally insist on using these silly clamping hexes???!!!??? WHY NOT JUST MAKE SOLID HEXES LIKE AE, LOSI, HPI, ETC???? There is NO NEED for overly complex, under-engineered clamping hexes. Does Tamiya sell a solid hex that's the right depth that will work on the RDX? I can't believe that someone hasn't found a better hex from another company that works better.
Maybe I'm missing something, but WHY does Corally insist on using these silly clamping hexes???!!!??? WHY NOT JUST MAKE SOLID HEXES LIKE AE, LOSI, HPI, ETC???? There is NO NEED for overly complex, under-engineered clamping hexes. Does Tamiya sell a solid hex that's the right depth that will work on the RDX? I can't believe that someone hasn't found a better hex from another company that works better.
Solid hexes are a pain in the but and can be difficult to take off and put on. Keep in mind that the Corally Hexes only have to be very lightly snugged. Do not do as the name suggests and "clamp" them down as they will break.