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Old 02-03-2006, 03:09 PM   #5596
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ok mr
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Old 02-03-2006, 03:52 PM   #5597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
Well, I don't know if there is a "voodoo" too it. I just fill it up and leave a gap at the top about how far the bladder will sit down. Push the shock shaft up and put the bladder on then slowly pull down so it seals the bladder on the shock body. Carefully put the cap on. No real science that I know of.

Jeff
same here... mine come out with no rebound at all, usually. just hafta make sure there is enough oil to keep the air out.

hey Jeff, can i just pm you an order? havent gotten the time to call during the day...

Wes
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Old 02-03-2006, 04:24 PM   #5598
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OOPS.
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Old 02-03-2006, 04:40 PM   #5599
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Wes...... Email is easier in case someone else checks the emails and can process the order for you. We should be able to send it out on Monday.

Jeff
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Old 02-03-2006, 04:55 PM   #5600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
I was told to build them to rebound all the way out is your way with all shocks ? I run Tamiya shocks on my rdx ...just wondering
I do this to all my shocks. On my RDX and my Mugen MTX-3. I realized [tested this on my mugen] that if you have more than 50% rebound, the car begins to lose alot of traction. Remember that the spring is there for a reason. For carpets, I think with like 0-20% of rebound would be ok. Since its a smooth surface.
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Old 02-03-2006, 06:00 PM   #5601
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The oil DAMPENS movement

The spring RETURNS the shock to the desired setting


The whole concept of rebound in null and void. Because if you depend on rebound to keep your car "snappy", you might as well drop oil weight as that does the same thing. (Hence different weight oils)
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Old 02-03-2006, 07:14 PM   #5602
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Yes oil is just to slow the action of the shock and the springs controll how far the shock moves. Rebound is the result of the oil being under pressure. This makes the shock just return to full extension a little quicker, but still feels slightly stiffer when being compressed. The car just returns to center faster while maintaining A slightly "thicker" feel you get with thicker oil. It's a very fine adjustment.

-Korey
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Old 02-03-2006, 10:19 PM   #5603
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sweet Ive built them to rebound full this means my car will work even better !
1 more this I never seen any setups with the rear bearings in the upper setting and a few post's back someone said the the upper setting will take away some bite the the end of the car U do it to will it help with a small push if I raise the rear bearing..I picked up 6deg caster blocks I will try that 1st but just wondering .....every where I run the traction is not as High as a big race so I see a small exit push from time to time maybe after I fix my shocks it is help as well ...I will see soon thanks for all the Help!
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Old 02-03-2006, 10:58 PM   #5604
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Yeah I know what you mean. We had a big trophy race here a few weeks ago and now my setup just pushes comming out of the corner. I just layed down the front shocks one hole and went to a softer spring. Lap times came right back.

-Korey
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Old 02-04-2006, 08:01 AM   #5605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.Hallett
i have a question. what parts would be needed to go from carpet to an asphalt track/ the track is wide open, built for 10th and 8th gasers. i have 75% arms and the normal chasis and top deck. would a one way or spool help? what would i need for those?
??????????????????
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Old 02-04-2006, 08:56 AM   #5606
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sushi Boy
Yeah I know what you mean. We had a big trophy race here a few weeks ago and now my setup just pushes comming out of the corner. I just layed down the front shocks one hole and went to a softer spring. Lap times came right back.

-Korey
I run tamiya shocks and AE springs does your car with 28mm Jaco wheels hit it shocks if U run a bit more steering I set my end point and dual rate based on my wheels hitting the shocks...I know if I move the shocks in a hole on the Arm/tower but wow it gets way soft..if I run parm's they R not as wide so I get more throw....my track is small 36x70 will I get more throw with the Stock RDX shocks..
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Old 02-04-2006, 10:05 AM   #5607
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.Hallett
??????????????????
If you have low blocks you would need the stock hinge pin blocks.
Some like one-ways and some like spool. I am more of a spool guy, only because the spool setup gets me so much steering its not funny.
I would get the black spring set, normal shock towers if your carpet car has lowered towers, and if you do deside to run a spool the steel cvds and medal blade combo is a nessesity IMO. If you get a one way you need the one way bearing retainers and bearings.
Otherwise I think you are OK.
-Shookie <><
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Old 02-04-2006, 01:12 PM   #5608
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do i have to put softer or stiffer spring if i put 1.6 degree of anti-dive in the front or can keep the spring im running!!

33lbs front whit double purple jaco foam and i have 4 degree caster block
26lbs back whit purple jaco foam

Later!!
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Old 02-04-2006, 01:50 PM   #5609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
If you have low blocks you would need the stock hinge pin blocks.
Some like one-ways and some like spool. I am more of a spool guy, only because the spool setup gets me so much steering its not funny.
I would get the black spring set, normal shock towers if your carpet car has lowered towers, and if you do deside to run a spool the steel cvds and medal blade combo is a nessesity IMO. If you get a one way you need the one way bearing retainers and bearings.
Otherwise I think you are OK.
-Shookie <><
thanks Mr. Shookie. do i need to run the steel cvds and metal blades with the oneway?. thanks again
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Old 02-04-2006, 02:47 PM   #5610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
I run tamiya shocks and AE springs does your car with 28mm Jaco wheels hit it shocks if U run a bit more steering I set my end point and dual rate based on my wheels hitting the shocks...I know if I move the shocks in a hole on the Arm/tower but wow it gets way soft..if I run parm's they R not as wide so I get more throw....my track is small 36x70 will I get more throw with the Stock RDX shocks..
Probably not since the corally shocks are larger in diameter. I usually dont turn the wheel a whole lot anyways, I just make the car have really aggressive steering. Generally if you turn the wheel less the car more potential to carry more forward momentum, or corner speed. Parma's just have a different wheel offset, so they sit further out on the wheel hex, but the car is slightly wider.

-Korey
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