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Old 02-03-2006, 11:21 AM   #5581
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Originally Posted by Customworksking
I was told to build them to rebound all the way out is your way with all shocks ? I run Tamiya shocks on my rdx ...just wondering
I think it is more driver preference than anything. Some guys run soft rebound, others run a lot of rebound. I've even messed with running more in the rear than in the front etc. Kind of the same concept as Xray drivers running different holes open on the pistons front to rear. Personally I run very little rebound. I think being able to make the car work with the shocks relatively "stood up" allows us to get away with running little rebound. But what do I know? I'm a Washingtonian.

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Old 02-03-2006, 11:22 AM   #5582
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Originally Posted by kabttu
So if I understand correctly I just need to dremel the nut holding the joint ball on each steering post?
Yes.

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Old 02-03-2006, 12:20 PM   #5583
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Hey Jeff,

I've noticed that you can adjust the height of the diffs. How does this affect handling if any? Just curious to see if I need to change mine.
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Old 02-03-2006, 12:26 PM   #5584
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Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE
Hey Jeff,

I've noticed that you can adjust the height of the diffs. How does this affect handling if any? Just curious to see if I need to change mine.
If you raise the diff, it will take away traction from that end.
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Old 02-03-2006, 12:27 PM   #5585
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Question...

Are there any composite / plastic C-Hubs for the RDX, as smacking a wall and having to shell out $21.50 for a single aluminum C-Hub seems nuts. I got a bit spoiled buying a pair for my TC4FT for $6.00.

Hopefully there is such an animal, even though I haven't seem 'em yet on Corally's site.
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Old 02-03-2006, 12:31 PM   #5586
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Originally Posted by Soviet
Question...

Are there any composite / plastic C-Hubs for the RDX, as smacking a wall and having to shell out $21.50 for a single aluminum C-Hub seems nuts. I got a bit spoiled buying a pair for my TC4FT for $6.00.

Hopefully there is such an animal, even though I haven't seem 'em yet on Corally's site.
Soviet. YGPM.
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Old 02-03-2006, 12:41 PM   #5587
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Lightbulb rear diff

Quote:
Originally Posted by stiltskin
If you raise the diff, it will take away traction from that end.
cool so what I seen with the rdx is the rear is stuck! has a small push with foam and rubber I wonder if raiseing the diff will work better or the same as less toe in ......I will try it
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Old 02-03-2006, 12:52 PM   #5588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrettBowen
I think it is more driver preference than anything. Some guys run soft rebound, others run a lot of rebound. I've even messed with running more in the rear than in the front etc. Kind of the same concept as Xray drivers running different holes open on the pistons front to rear. Personally I run very little rebound. I think being able to make the car work with the shocks relatively "stood up" allows us to get away with running little rebound. But what do I know? I'm a Washingtonian.

Brett
I prefer shocks with little rebound as well. But I find it easier to build the shock so they have very little rebound, and get the tamiya foam thingys you put above the bladder or stuff o rings in there. It keeps the bladder from collasping. I generally run nothing on top of the bladder though. If you have some rebound it seems like the car recovers form a corner better, transistions a little faster in high traction conditions.

-Korey
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Old 02-03-2006, 01:36 PM   #5589
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from what i have heard, the rebound works well on bumpy asphalt tracks... helps recover better with a little more ....
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Old 02-03-2006, 02:15 PM   #5590
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Exclamation shocks

so, mid rebound is better for carpet <smooth> and full is better for outdoos bumpy.....will more or less help the car rotate faster exiting as well?????
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Old 02-03-2006, 02:33 PM   #5591
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Soviet, this is what you need

http://www.corallyusa.com/2005/parts/79280.gif

79280 ASSASSIN Steering Blocks (1 Pair)
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Old 02-03-2006, 02:39 PM   #5592
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Originally Posted by Customworksking
so, mid rebound is better for carpet <smooth> and full is better for outdoos bumpy.....will more or less help the car rotate faster exiting as well?????
I would never have more than 50% rebound. The car feels weird with the added "spring". I would just go down 5 or 10 weight if you want more reaction. Dead shocks are ideal as they are the most consistent from run to run.

There are no plastic C-hubs for the RDX. I would be impressed if you bent one. I have seen it, but very rare. I am sure you could modify some hub to do it though.

Jeff
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Old 02-03-2006, 02:44 PM   #5593
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i have a question. what parts would be needed to go from carpet to an asphalt track/ the track is wide open, built for 10th and 8th gasers. i have 75% arms and the normal chasis and top deck. would a one way or spool help? what would i need for those?
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Old 02-03-2006, 02:49 PM   #5594
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hey jeff how are you getting that dead rebound feel when you rebuild your shocks.
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Old 02-03-2006, 02:58 PM   #5595
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Originally Posted by wallstreet
hey jeff how are you getting that dead rebound feel when you rebuild your shocks.
Well, I don't know if there is a "voodoo" too it. I just fill it up and leave a gap at the top about how far the bladder will sit down. Push the shock shaft up and put the bladder on then slowly pull down so it seals the bladder on the shock body. Carefully put the cap on. No real science that I know of.

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