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Old 01-21-2006, 10:52 PM   #5236
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Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
Hewitt,

Jeff Brown's helpful support to this forum is also most appreciated.

Bill
I do what I can. Somethings are delayed for reasons obviously. At least we don't release a new car every 9 months.

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Old 01-21-2006, 10:55 PM   #5237
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Arrow arms

Sorry Jeff I kind of got it started but just knowing theres something in the works is good for me too ...........
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Old 01-21-2006, 11:00 PM   #5238
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Sorry Jeff I kind of got it started but just knowing theres something in the works is good for me too ...........
It's all yer fault. No setup help for you. jk

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Old 01-21-2006, 11:03 PM   #5239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
I do what I can. Somethings are delayed for reasons obviously. At least we don't release a new car every 9 months.

Jeff

BURN...............
-Shookie <><
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Old 01-21-2006, 11:11 PM   #5240
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Talking HELP!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
It's all yer fault. No setup help for you. jk

Jeff
All mannn please.....on that note Chris Tosolini did help me I took him my car and he went right to work as a matter of fact I won my heat afterwords "Novak race" thanks
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Old 01-21-2006, 11:32 PM   #5241
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I have only run the car twice with some pretty good results. I can say that the car is a great car. Before getting the car I did notice that people are breaking arms pretty regularly but when looking closer at how some of these arms are being broken I came to the conclusion that those arms should have broken in those crahses that I saw. Getting the stiff bumper and kydex bumper will help greatly with those grazed hits that you get when you hit the inside board to be honest I would much rather brake an 6$ arm then bend a bulkhead anyday.
JRX-BIll those crashes I saw last sunday that you had were pretty hard crashes. If your running anything that Aaron has suggested you run its pretty much going to setup the car to be pretty aggresive. You car looked to be pretty responsive I would recommend that you tone done your initial steering that the car has by going with a stiffer spring upfront. I went from a 33lbs spring up front to a 36lbs. spring to take away some steering at the gilory track and it really helped with the consistancy of the car. It just looked like your car was a handful to drive.
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Old 01-22-2006, 02:09 AM   #5242
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There's no reason for people to continue to deny there's a problem. If Corally is working on new arms, I guess we can say it came from the horse's mouth and admit the arms aren't as durable as they could be. That's fine, it's happened to many manufacturers over the years. As long as they're actively trying to fix the problem, I'll happily continue with my RDX and eagerly await the updated arms. I can easily live with a problem I know is in the process of being fixed.

Thanks for the info Jeff, you guys are a big part of the reason I stick around.
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Old 01-22-2006, 02:10 AM   #5243
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I wonder how much of the arm design is a compromise to keep them the same on the front and rear. As much as I like the convenience, I'd be willing to give it up for additional durability.
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Old 01-22-2006, 02:52 AM   #5244
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I have only broken 1 arm to date. It's the kit supplied arm, 75%carbon content. I have crashed numerous times, and sometimes kinda hard but so far i've been lucky. The best way to keep them arms breaking is by not crashing The RDX is a very good car and the arms issue aint a big thing in my opinion. Just my .02

Btw, what does raisng the rear roll center do to the car's handling? Does it give it more grip entering a corner? Thanks.
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Old 01-22-2006, 08:13 AM   #5245
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from the very start i was very impressed with the RDX, however, im lacking some stability coming out of corners... im using a front 1-way... would you guys recommend a 4deg caster ? thanks - jason
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Old 01-22-2006, 09:23 AM   #5246
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Jeff Brown - I found the root of my diff problems (we spoke about it on the phone last week). The snap rings holding the thrust bearings in were bent. The 1st time I rebuilt the diffs, I didn't have the right tool to remove them. When I replaced them with the new snap rings, I got the right tool and found the problem. It all makes sense now - since the bearing couldn't seat correctly in the outdrive. Plus the Carbide diff balls work great... Thanks for the help. You guys provide some real support.

We've got some killer XRay competition up here in St Louis, but the Corally is hanging in there nicely. Right now it's 10 XRays (4 of them are T2's) vs. my 1 Corally.

I have an additional question for you guys: What does the ultra low roll center blocks do for the car? I notice both Tosolini's and Cuff's setup sheets show they use them.
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Old 01-22-2006, 09:32 AM   #5247
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i think originally the low blocks were the best on foams, probably due in part to the smaller diameter of the tire...but last i heard talking to Jeff about it, they had been trying both again...

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Old 01-22-2006, 09:45 AM   #5248
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Default snap ring tool?

What is the right tool for the snap rings in the diff?
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Old 01-22-2006, 10:10 AM   #5249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
What is the right tool for the snap rings in the diff?
Tiny snap-ring pliers you can get from Sears, Lowes, Etc.. Or you can dremel down the ends of an old pair of needlenosed pliers so they fit in the snap ring holes and take them out that way. Just be sure not to squeeze them to far, or when you put your diff back-together you'll notice a stiff spot in the diff.


-Eric
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Old 01-22-2006, 10:51 AM   #5250
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ive got a question conserning the complete diffs. one do they come with the white light weight pullies? also do they come with the new updated diff bolts? thanks for the help
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