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Old 01-16-2006, 07:39 PM   #5161
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Originally Posted by HarshGuy
Oh ...I didn't look that far back!!
Oops! I forgot. Matt was just scanning the string.
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Old 01-16-2006, 10:27 PM   #5162
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Default RDX 2?

Is this it?!

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Old 01-16-2006, 10:38 PM   #5163
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What the heck is that?
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Old 01-16-2006, 10:48 PM   #5164
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It's the new Corally the big secret we have been waiting for. Just kidding!
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Old 01-17-2006, 09:23 AM   #5165
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Default RDX CPR

Maybe its the RDX CPR (cheap plastic racer)?

Actually I love my new RDX. Best handling car I have ever owned.
Magnitudes better than my TC4 CPR.
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Old 01-17-2006, 11:20 AM   #5166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
Is this it?!


Thats some.....well i just cant find the words for it lol.
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Old 01-17-2006, 11:42 AM   #5167
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Hi, i couldn't find anything about the Corally 19t on the company forums so i thought i'd post here.

Can anyone give me an idea on how to gear it for a large indoor track. I normally gear my Reedy around 6 and a C2 about 6.7. how would the Corally compare.

BTW i do run an RDX with some success so any help would be appreciated.
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Old 01-17-2006, 11:52 AM   #5168
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Don't understand why you guys are all bashing Cuffs for changing gear. My thought is, maybe he got fed up with breaking wishbones (big up to Robfo on that one ).
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Old 01-17-2006, 03:20 PM   #5169
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Originally Posted by TRF415boy
My thought is, maybe he got fed up with breaking wishbones (big up to Robfo on that one ).
But changing wishbones are way better than gluing cracked chassis'
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Old 01-17-2006, 03:31 PM   #5170
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Originally Posted by SpeedDesignz
But changing wishbones are way better than gluing cracked chassis'
True, but that only happens to guys running FK05's
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Old 01-17-2006, 09:51 PM   #5171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robfo
Hi, i couldn't find anything about the Corally 19t on the company forums so i thought i'd post here.

Can anyone give me an idea on how to gear it for a large indoor track. I normally gear my Reedy around 6 and a C2 about 6.7. how would the Corally compare.

BTW i do run an RDX with some success so any help would be appreciated.
Well, if you like the Reedy Quad Mag around 6.0 then I would start the 19T Spec at around the same thing. We gear it at 6.0 for about 90 to 120 foot straights. Go up to around 5.5 to 5.8 if the track is big and flowing.

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Old 01-18-2006, 12:07 AM   #5172
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Do you guys find the softer arms are more durable? In theory, it seems like softer arms would be less brittle, but I'm wondering if anybody has actually confirmed it. I tried putting some softer arms on the front tonight and it seemed a lot less fragile, though I didn't hit many things. I'm almost tempted to put aluminum arms on the front, because that's the only thing I break on the car, and only with very minor glancing blows. I just don't want to bend other things, but it's not like I'm hitting stuff hard.
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Old 01-18-2006, 02:32 AM   #5173
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Thank's Jeff, i had it on a cs dyno last night and compared it to my reedy and c2's, it seemed to fall between them on rev's so that gave me an idea for the gearing.
Thank's for your advise.
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Old 01-18-2006, 05:28 AM   #5174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
Do you guys find the softer arms are more durable? In theory, it seems like softer arms would be less brittle, but I'm wondering if anybody has actually confirmed it. I tried putting some softer arms on the front tonight and it seemed a lot less fragile, though I didn't hit many things. I'm almost tempted to put aluminum arms on the front, because that's the only thing I break on the car, and only with very minor glancing blows. I just don't want to bend other things, but it's not like I'm hitting stuff hard.
I've been experimenting with the different arms. What I've found that works great is the 50 arms boiled in water for 8 min. I wouldn't recomend using the Aluminum arms. Remember when you hit, somthing's gotta give a little. If the entire thing is metal then stuff is going to bend. I would think that would be rather hard on you bulkheads.
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Old 01-18-2006, 06:54 AM   #5175
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We have had good luck with the alum arms and steering knuckles.... these were our first 10th scales so needless to say we banged off the boards a bit as we have been learning. The only truly Bent stuff is the hinge pins.... seem they are a sheer point for some of the energy... That and upgraded plastic rod ends..... and we have NEVER Had a DNF from the boards... (well of course the dam motor/pinion slip after the head on)

A super HUGE hit in the back twisted one of our alum rear upright. and you'll see that while on the setup board, with less rear toe on the bent side.

We take them apart all the time and go completely thru them and everything is still seems straight and they tweak out fine....

It the oldest discussion in RC (1) $50 part or (5) 10$ parts.... but how much $$$$ is a D.N.F. worth........
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