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Old 01-13-2006, 09:39 AM   #5071
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
Everything on the internet must be true, it has to be.

Jeff
Sorry bro...just trying to get confirmation....seems rumors are stretched even further now adays...LOL
Thanks for the clarification...
-Shookie <><
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Old 01-13-2006, 09:42 AM   #5072
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Actually when you cut the shock shafts and eyelets you can still use the stock perches. I believe Toso has the stock ones on his car.

Jeff
Sweet I knew You guys would get it figured....Now back to 100% COrally....LOL
-Shookie <><
Maybe a measurement of how much to remove?
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Old 01-13-2006, 09:48 AM   #5073
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What is the design purpose of the lowered shock tower? Is it just to run slammed bodies or does it actually affect the handling of the car? I'm talking about the ones at Specialized RC with original camber mounts. It seems to me that if you lower the tower and then cut the bottom of the shock shaft and eyelet, you haven't really adjusted where the piston rides in the fluid.
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Old 01-13-2006, 10:17 AM   #5074
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Yeah to slam body height.
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Old 01-13-2006, 10:53 AM   #5075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
Sweet I knew You guys would get it figured....Now back to 100% COrally....LOL
-Shookie <><
Maybe a measurement of how much to remove?
Well, the lowered tower is 3mm lower. So I would trim that off the shaft. That is what I did along with cutting the eyelet pretty much the same or a tick less.

Jeff
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Old 01-13-2006, 10:55 AM   #5076
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stiltskin
It seems to me that if you lower the tower and then cut the bottom of the shock shaft and eyelet, you haven't really adjusted where the piston rides in the fluid.
Well, cutting the shock shaft and eyelet allows the piston to ride back in the original position. We are not trying to have it ride in a different location. Since the tower is 3mm lower, the shock needs to be essentially 3mm shorter to maintain the proper fuction of the dampening. If you follow me.

Jeff
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Old 01-13-2006, 11:13 AM   #5077
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
Well, cutting the shock shaft and eyelet allows the piston to ride back in the original position. We are not trying to have it ride in a different location. Since the tower is 3mm lower, the shock needs to be essentially 3mm shorter to maintain the proper fuction of the dampening. If you follow me.

Jeff
I gotcha. So it's just for lowered bodies and a slightly lower cg. Thanks.
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Old 01-13-2006, 01:13 PM   #5078
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Quick question about the roll center blocks. I have the small dots on the side of the roll centers facing down in the lower holes. I want the roll centers set more at the nuetral position, so that would be the lower hole with the small dots facing up?

Any help would be great.

-B
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Old 01-13-2006, 01:54 PM   #5079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
Two things,

One used these ball ends
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=236&id=2079
and these perches and you will have them slamed as low as you can go...
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...nid=241&id=908
Also every type of spring size has fit on those perches...
I run HPI R40 and PRO4 springs as well as Corally...They all fit..I have fit Tamiya springs as well...

Two,
Why the heck did Corally USA let Cuffs go?
He won at will and had one dialed car...
-Shookie <><
Thanks for this info Shookie my friends have all got HPI and Tamiya springs but none Corally so ill get these orderd and bump there springs.

Thanks Buddy

Big Will
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Old 01-13-2006, 02:08 PM   #5080
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Jeff,
Can you tell us the deal on what's really going on with Jeff Cuffs?

Thanks in advance
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Old 01-13-2006, 03:52 PM   #5081
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pezz
Quick question about the roll center blocks. I have the small dots on the side of the roll centers facing down in the lower holes. I want the roll centers set more at the nuetral position, so that would be the lower hole with the small dots facing up?

Any help would be great.

-B
When you say a more "neutral position" do you mean the arms more level? It's been a while since I've run on rubber tires, but if you want to raise the hinge pins a touch just flip the blocks around, so the dot is pointing up. That should give you a little more turn in, and a little less grip in the middle and exit of the corner.

-Korey
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Old 01-13-2006, 04:13 PM   #5082
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
Two things,

One used these ball ends
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=236&id=2079
and these perches and you will have them slamed as low as you can go...
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...nid=241&id=908
Also every type of spring size has fit on those perches...
I run HPI R40 and PRO4 springs as well as Corally...They all fit..I have fit Tamiya springs as well...

Two,
Why the heck did Corally USA let Cuffs go?
He won at will and had one dialed car...
-Shookie <><
^^^^^^^^^^^these here^^^^^^^^
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Old 01-13-2006, 04:15 PM   #5083
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I heard corally is coming out with a upgrade kit somewhat like the 415 is this true.?.also what chassis is better for 19t foam 3.9 or 2.9 any help will do
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Old 01-13-2006, 04:27 PM   #5084
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on foams, the 3.9 is the definite choice, from what i hear. on high grip especially, you can see the difference in laptimes... more consistant.
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Old 01-13-2006, 04:27 PM   #5085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
I heard corally is coming out with a upgrade kit somewhat like the 415 is this true.?.also what chassis is better for 19t foam 3.9 or 2.9 any help will do
Where did you here this fella, i hope it's true split bulkheads would be a god send to a car already built by the man himself
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