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Old 12-29-2005, 03:29 PM   #4891
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Thats normal. Mine have done that on all of my belt cars I've ever had.
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Old 12-29-2005, 03:47 PM   #4892
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Thanks a lot for the help. That helps me out a lot. After I was done building it, I noticed it and I didn't know if it was normal or not because I have always driven shaft cars. W/o the belt tensioning in the front, that seems loose enough that it will skip. I have however adjust the read tensioner to the middle. Is the front belt tensioner there just for show, or is it really critical? Thanks a lpot for the help.
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Old 12-29-2005, 09:31 PM   #4893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teetwo
W/o the belt tensioning in the front, that seems loose enough that it will skip. I have however adjust the read tensioner to the middle. Is the front belt tensioner there just for show, or is it really critical? Thanks a lpot for the help.
i think most of us just adjust belt tension on the layshaft, the front tensioner is hardly ever used. I know plenty of stock and mod drivers that don't even use the front one.
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Old 12-29-2005, 09:40 PM   #4894
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Really, thats something new. I am new with belts. im usually shaft, but belts seem the way to go. is there anything else important that i should be informed of or told notice of?
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Old 12-30-2005, 04:58 AM   #4895
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i got the car used but it wasnt used only but one race.the vegas race the guy told me.but anyways. i used to have a xxxs and i was going by that solution as for belt tension.as for my rdx.when i adjust screw in the middle for rear tensioner.the front seems looser thatn the bcak.but as for it slipping.like i will do up to track and they have separate place for you to put you car donw to help get excess compound off and to help warm the tire up a bit.so when i sit the car down and give it gas i here a noise of slipping pretty badly.even like when i would come out of a turn and hammer it i here it slipping for a quick second.im not used to haveing a car with 2 belts.i had that xxxs and all my other cars where shaft.nut i thank you for the help.i might just put new belts on it and go from there.also if i wanted to go with the front tensioner do i get that right from corally?

thx again,
matt
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Old 12-30-2005, 05:04 AM   #4896
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Hello: Hate to hijack the post but any help on our diff screw question from a few post ago????

Trying to remove a broken diff screw without destroying the diff housing?????

Ant Help?????
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Old 12-30-2005, 05:29 AM   #4897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAD916
Hello: Hate to hijack the post but any help on our diff screw question from a few post ago????

Trying to remove a broken diff screw without destroying the diff housing?????

Ant Help?????
Look at post 4652 in this thread.
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Old 12-30-2005, 10:12 AM   #4898
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morris
i got the car used but it wasnt used only but one race.the vegas race the guy told me.but anyways. i used to have a xxxs and i was going by that solution as for belt tension.as for my rdx.when i adjust screw in the middle for rear tensioner.the front seems looser thatn the bcak.but as for it slipping.like i will do up to track and they have separate place for you to put you car donw to help get excess compound off and to help warm the tire up a bit.so when i sit the car down and give it gas i here a noise of slipping pretty badly.even like when i would come out of a turn and hammer it i here it slipping for a quick second.im not used to haveing a car with 2 belts.i had that xxxs and all my other cars where shaft.nut i thank you for the help.i might just put new belts on it and go from there.also if i wanted to go with the front tensioner do i get that right from corally?

thx again,
matt
Your diffs are loose. That is the noise you hear. The tensioner should have been in the kit. We do have them in stock though.

Jeff
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Old 12-30-2005, 10:14 AM   #4899
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Reposted from #4652.....



1) When you order just tell them you would like some...They sent me a bunch on my last order....Free of charge..

2) Once the diff is in the car...Well since I use only one diff it is the rear....So with the front of the car pointed to the front you can look down on the left side the screw slot is there. I put in either a .05mm wrench or a small flat head then twist the right wheel while locking the screw slot with the wrench/screwdriver this will either loosen or tighten.

3) You have to heat the small diff half with a lighter to get the aluminum to expand, it will expand faster than the plastic so it comes out pretty good...Be Patient don't force it and it should come out easy.

Hope that helps,
-Shookie <><
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Old 12-30-2005, 10:17 AM   #4900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morris
i got the car used but it wasnt used only but one race.the vegas race the guy told me.but anyways. i used to have a xxxs and i was going by that solution as for belt tension.as for my rdx.when i adjust screw in the middle for rear tensioner.the front seems looser thatn the bcak.but as for it slipping.like i will do up to track and they have separate place for you to put you car donw to help get excess compound off and to help warm the tire up a bit.so when i sit the car down and give it gas i here a noise of slipping pretty badly.even like when i would come out of a turn and hammer it i here it slipping for a quick second.im not used to haveing a car with 2 belts.i had that xxxs and all my other cars where shaft.nut i thank you for the help.i might just put new belts on it and go from there.also if i wanted to go with the front tensioner do i get that right from corally?

thx again,
matt
I run the front tensioner just to help keep the belt aligned. Not really much tension on it. As far as the slipping/skipping sound, that may be your diff slipping and it may also be the body catching on the tires. (If you hold the back of the body as you do your burnout.
As far as the tensioner, you can get it through Corally.
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Old 12-30-2005, 01:26 PM   #4901
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
Reposted from #4652.....



1) When you order just tell them you would like some...They sent me a bunch on my last order....Free of charge..

2) Once the diff is in the car...Well since I use only one diff it is the rear....So with the front of the car pointed to the front you can look down on the left side the screw slot is there. I put in either a .05mm wrench or a small flat head then twist the right wheel while locking the screw slot with the wrench/screwdriver this will either loosen or tighten.

3) You have to heat the small diff half with a lighter to get the aluminum to expand, it will expand faster than the plastic so it comes out pretty good...Be Patient don't force it and it should come out easy.

Hope that helps,
-Shookie <><
Jeff can U tell me what droop the rdx likes for stock rubber my tamiya runs 5mmft 4mm rear any help will do thanx
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Old 12-30-2005, 01:37 PM   #4902
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
Jeff can U tell me what droop the rdx likes for stock rubber my tamiya runs 5mmft 4mm rear any help will do thanx
Well, we usually go by "up travel" on the droop settings. I would start with 2mm FR and 3mm RR and go from there.

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Old 12-30-2005, 02:04 PM   #4903
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dhartman03
i think most of us just adjust belt tension on the layshaft, the front tensioner is hardly ever used. I know plenty of stock and mod drivers that don't even use the front one.
I use the belt tensioner up by the front diff, I just don't like the belt bouncing as much as if does when there is no tensioner used.
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Old 12-30-2005, 03:40 PM   #4904
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Talking up droop

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
Well, we usually go by "up travel" on the droop settings. I would start with 2mm FR and 3mm RR and go from there.

Jeff
soory for calling it droop now with my tamiya I run less up travel on the rear and more on the front.... say 4mm rear and 5mm ft so,the rdx likes less up travel in the ft and more in the rear I guess Ide expect a push and the 2mm will help ...I will try it ..I have it set now at 2mm and 2mm thanks Jeff....Kevin
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Old 12-31-2005, 02:10 PM   #4905
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What is the internal tranmission ration for the RDX?
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