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Old 12-07-2005, 05:43 PM   #4591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miamifanatic
sorry what i meant was the ball end when i slide the perches over the ball end it doesnt fit snug it wobbles on it that isnt right is it and yes i am running foam stock
With the weight of the car and the pressure of the spring pushing down on the perch you are fine as long as it's not so loose that the perch can slip off of the ball end. If you are worried about it you may want to try the X-Ray spring perches as they may fit differently!
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Old 12-07-2005, 06:28 PM   #4592
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Originally Posted by Cruisaaja
Hi Joe.

That mean at you can change your front kickup and anti-dive. Read that in your manual, page 27.
Thanks for the info. I haven't gotten my RDX yet, its arriving next week. Im just making preparations

RCFREAK and ALB:Thanks for the info
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Old 12-07-2005, 09:12 PM   #4593
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miamifanatic
sorry what i meant was the ball end when i slide the perches over the ball end it doesnt fit snug it wobbles on it that isnt right is it and yes i am running foam stock
Correct...... they are loose and wobble. Xray or Tamiya or Schumacher seem to work better. I have seen the springs slip over the AE perches as well. I would recommend cutting the shock bottom and threads a bit and use the stock perches.

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Old 12-07-2005, 09:24 PM   #4594
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Has anyone tried putting the front shocks behind the front shock tower? You would have to shave a little plastic off the front of the arms to get the shocks to stand straightup. One thing it does is allows the front wheels to turn in more but I wonder if there would be any advantages to moving the weight of the shocks towards the center of the car like they did with the rear shocks.
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Old 12-07-2005, 10:49 PM   #4595
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I saw someone (Soviet, I think) say the suspension geometry of the RDX is based on the TC3. Is that some little-known fact that I missed all this time?
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Old 12-08-2005, 12:51 AM   #4596
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Default RDX: Pros and Cons

Hi, for the guys with lots of run time with this car in Mod class, what are the Pros and Cons of running this kit? I am thinking of getting one. Does it have the easy off diffs and spur gears ala Yok BD or the Cyclone? Any input will be greatly appreciated. Thank you
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Old 12-08-2005, 06:55 AM   #4597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slow
Has anyone tried putting the front shocks behind the front shock tower? You would have to shave a little plastic off the front of the arms to get the shocks to stand straightup. One thing it does is allows the front wheels to turn in more but I wonder if there would be any advantages to moving the weight of the shocks towards the center of the car like they did with the rear shocks.
I found some photos a while ago on a French website that had shown a Corally with this modification done to it. I believe this was a Swiss-owned car. I don't know what this would accomplish over the existing setup, other than shock protection in an impact.
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Old 12-08-2005, 10:06 AM   #4598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
I saw someone (Soviet, I think) say the suspension geometry of the RDX is based on the TC3. Is that some little-known fact that I missed all this time?
Soviet knows all, right?

Compare the geometry between the cars...it's very different. I could list all the significant differences but that'd take quite a bit of time.

The RDX has it's own excellent geometry
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Old 12-08-2005, 01:21 PM   #4599
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This car whit the modification of the shock is from Walter Pollet-Villard and i think he shave the arm a litle bit to put the shock behind de shock tower!! and also you can see on the pic he put a 2mm screw like xray screw to adjust the droop!! dont know why he did that because the stock crew from the kit is good!! hehe!!

Later!!

P.S on the driver photo Walter his the middle one(only guy whit a corally shirt but he finish first in mod hehe!!)
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Old 12-09-2005, 01:59 PM   #4600
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This may be old news to some, but since I just finished a lowered front shock tower for someone and its fresh in my mind, heres the specs.

Place the shock tower down so the countersunk hole is facing down. Measure up from the stock mounting holes exactly 0.125" on both sides with a line. After finding the centerline of the mounting hole and marking it, then make sure the spacing between holes center to center is 1 and 17/32" across. I used a punch and predrilled a tiny pilot hole, then redrilled to a #32 drill bit (0.166"). The pilot hole increases accuracy. I did it on a drill press.

Last step is to cut off (or belt sand off in my case) 0.125" off the bottom of the shock tower. I marked a line and sanded off the bottom till I hit the line.

Done.
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Old 12-09-2005, 02:11 PM   #4601
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
This may be old news to some, but since I just finished a lowered front shock tower for someone and its fresh in my mind, heres the specs.

Place the shock tower down so the countersunk hole is facing down. Measure up from the stock mounting holes exactly 0.125" on both sides with a line. After finding the centerline of the mounting hole and marking it, then make sure the spacing between holes center to center is 1 and 17/32" across. I used a punch and predrilled a tiny pilot hole, then redrilled to a #32 drill bit (0.166"). The pilot hole increases accuracy. I did it on a drill press.

Last step is to cut off (or belt sand off in my case) 0.125" off the bottom of the shock tower. I marked a line and sanded off the bottom till I hit the line.

Done.
Thanks Ray but did you know you can buy them lowered now? I got 2 the other day in the mail from Corally. Seem like thicker C/F and the camber locations are still in the stock position. They took material away from in between the camber holes and the shock mounting holes instead of chopping it off at the bottom. Really nice!!
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Old 12-09-2005, 02:17 PM   #4602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koabich
Thanks Ray but did you know you can buy them lowered now? I got 2 the other day in the mail from Corally. Seem like thicker C/F and the camber locations are still in the stock position. They took material away from in between the camber holes and the shock mounting holes instead of chopping it off at the bottom. Really nice!!

Nope-I didnt know that!! Thats cool that they did that. Corally does listen to there foam tire customers!!! The guy can buy one of those and keep this as a spare, though I doubt youd ever break a front shock tower.
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Old 12-09-2005, 03:09 PM   #4603
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What's the story with the rear body post mount in that last set of pictures? Looks like a home-made job that moves them forward and in somewhat.
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Old 12-09-2005, 03:27 PM   #4604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koabich
Thanks Ray but did you know you can buy them lowered now? I got 2 the other day in the mail from Corally. Seem like thicker C/F and the camber locations are still in the stock position. They took material away from in between the camber holes and the shock mounting holes instead of chopping it off at the bottom. Really nice!!
LOWERED TOWERS are sold out. So..... keep Ray's explaination in mind. Should have more towers next week. 79238. There is also more "meat" around the shortest camber link position to prevent it from snapping so easily.

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Old 12-09-2005, 03:41 PM   #4605
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When will more short towers be available?
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