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Old 11-11-2005, 02:24 PM   #4201
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Originally Posted by RC_Woody
I will try using the ceramic thrust and see how it goes....

theory... Are you running on asphalt or foam? I wonder if the fine foam particles on a tight track just get everywhere more and get into the diff easier?

YUP, Woody and I were talking during lunch about this. I ran my RDX asphalt car the whole summer with mod, 19T on dirty, not dirty, VHT, non-VHT treated track. My diff was butter smooth from the first day until the day I sold it. Never needed rebuilt.

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Old 11-11-2005, 02:31 PM   #4202
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Originally Posted by RC_Woody
I will try using the ceramic thrust and see how it goes....

theory... Are you running on asphalt or foam? I wonder if the fine foam particles on a tight track just get everywhere more and get into the diff easier?

I have ran it on both with no problemsl
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Old 11-11-2005, 03:29 PM   #4203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew_Carter
Anyone had any problems with the the one peice white diffs?

Im having to rebuild mine every week! Its getting abit of a nightmare.I have the ceramic thrust and ceramic diff balls, but still i just seem to spend all my time rebuilding diffs!

Has anyone had this problem? how did you solve it? And is there a company which makes some diff covers? Mite help

TIA

Andy
You shouldn't be having any problems with the white pulleys that you were not having with the black ones. Keep in mind that regardes of pulley, this is an open diff design and more frequent rebuilds will be more necessary than those on, say a TC4 where the diffs are totally enclosed. I run on carpet with foams and do not have a problem with rebuilding diffs constantly. I would try several things:
1) Use Associated Stealth Diff Lube on the diff balls. DO NOT use a ton of the stuff as it attracts dirt. My little trick is I fill the holes in the pulley with diff lube, then instert the diff balls in holes..that's it...no more lube than that. In fact, you could probably get away withy less IMO (especially with ceramic diff balls).
2) Every time you rebuild the diff, rebuild the thrust bearing as well. Use the black Assocated grease and pack it in. Use a ton of the stuff and cover the thrust bearing assembly completely. Use it as a protective sheild so that dirt cannot reach the thrust bearing. The mojority of the time when a diff is not smooth is because their is something wrong with the thrust bearing.
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Old 11-11-2005, 06:22 PM   #4204
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Rather than read 140+ pages of this thread, can someone do a quick recap on the front diff and the reason for using 6 bevel washers in stead of 4? Didn't someone also mention having to space the front arms out farther when doing this?
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Old 11-11-2005, 06:36 PM   #4205
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Originally Posted by Stealth_RT
Rather than read 140+ pages of this thread, can someone do a quick recap on the front diff and the reason for using 6 bevel washers in stead of 4? Didn't someone also mention having to space the front arms out farther when doing this?

6 washers are used as a more fine adjustment for the diff. The only talk of spacing the arms were for the guys that were having problems breaking Knuckles that were running the 6 washers and 1 to 1 1/2 inboard spacing. They needed to space the arm more to keep the cvd blade from bottoming out in the diff half and breaking the knuckle.
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Old 11-12-2005, 11:12 AM   #4206
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On the setup of Jason Ertrachter for the Vegas race the spring are RED HPI spring and PINK HPI spring anyone know what ther spring rate of those spring or anyone know if it trhe spring from the pro4 kit or r40 ??????

Later!!!
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Old 11-12-2005, 09:21 PM   #4207
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I totally bent a front bulkhead! We've got walls on two sides of the track, and if you're not careful, it's easy to come out of a turn and hit them with the side of your car with all the weight transfered to that side. It really does terrible things, like killing bearings and bulkheads and shock towers. That's not a mistake I want to make again. Anyway, hopefully this discovery will resolve some of the odd problems I've had with the car recently. :-\
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Old 11-12-2005, 11:34 PM   #4208
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Default Overdrive Testing

Well, I know a lot of people are non-believers of this whole Losi pulleys overdrive idea. But I did have a real positive result from using Losi pulleys and overdriving the front end. The whole concept made the car a lot more stable and consistent. Lap times clearly show it has an advantage. More importantly my diffs are still butter smooth.

Dom
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Old 11-13-2005, 08:30 AM   #4209
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How in the heck do you get the bearings out of the steering knuckles? The centers of the bearings feel out and can't get the sleeves out.
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Old 11-13-2005, 08:32 AM   #4210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRW141
How in the heck do you get the bearings out of the steering knuckles? The centers of the bearings feel out and can't get the sleeves out.
I think a #16 xacto blade works.... small rounded type tip...
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Old 11-13-2005, 10:21 AM   #4211
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On the setup of Jason Ertrachter for the Vegas race the spring are RED HPI spring and PINK HPI spring anyone know what ther spring rate of those spring or anyone know if it trhe spring from the pro4 kit or r40 ??????

Later!!!
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Old 11-13-2005, 11:08 AM   #4212
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T1 Raycer

I asked this a few pages back,someone answerd.Have a lilttle look,Quite a few pages i fink.
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Old 11-13-2005, 11:11 AM   #4213
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Yea, it involves heating them since the aluminum expands faster than the steel, and they'll come out real easy. I forget what temp he said, though.
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Old 11-13-2005, 11:12 AM   #4214
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Here it is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
Hey Brad,

If you can't tap the race out from the other side, here is a method.... one we use to take the bearing out of a crankcase....

Since the rear hub is aluminum, the race of the bearing is steel....

Take all the setscrew, ball and nut off the hub, put it in your oven at 400 degree (don't let Tiff knows), put it in there for about 12-15 mins, since the aluminum will expand quicker then the steel, the bearing race should fall right out, if not then give it a little help by tapping it on your wooden cutting board (again, don't let Tiff knows). If you need to use too much tapping force to get it out, then put it back in the oven for a bit longer....

Key thing is it should be able to fall out very easily. If not, that means it isn't hot enough. 400 degree isn't going to hurt it either.

But if anyone else has a better idea, I'll love to hear it too.

Dom
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Old 11-13-2005, 12:27 PM   #4215
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How many Hingepin Adjustment Blocks (Low) do I need to convert over to low roll center.

Online Corally source says that are sold as (1 piece) for $8.99 each!!!

Thanks.
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