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Old 11-11-2005, 12:56 PM   #4186
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By the way, I have an older kit with the black two-piece pullys.
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Old 11-11-2005, 12:57 PM   #4187
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yeah, I really don't know how are guys going thru stock balls for months.... I rebuilt my front diff with stock balls before Tuesday night race, 5 runs and it's all gritty already. Stock Corally lube, 6 cone washers and all.....

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Old 11-11-2005, 12:57 PM   #4188
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Can't be Breaking them in Properly. I have Been on the Same Freshen Up For about 3 Months. You must Gradually Tighten the Diffs and work them a Little Tighten 1/12th and work a Little. Run one Pack and Don't Rip on it, Then Gradually Tighten 1/12th at a time until there is no Slippage.
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Old 11-11-2005, 12:59 PM   #4189
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Done all that. Every single method you guys are doing, I've done already.

Makes me miss the old XRAY diff.

But we'll see how the Losi pulleys go this weekend.

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Old 11-11-2005, 01:09 PM   #4190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Banshee8530
At our track in BFE we have three corallys running on a small ozite carpet track (36 x 45 maybe). All three cars are incredibly fast and we all have roughly the same set-ups, but it seems that we can't get the rear-end to tighten up and we have too much steering. We run essentially the Jeff Cuffs set-up on Jaco double pinks. One has tried running the front sway bar and actually looked more loose!?!? I have moved my shock mounts in and out with little to no effect. Most effective was running the 24lb spring on rear. Would lighter springs all around help? any pointers on getting less steering and less rear-end slide?

On the diff side of things, no broken screws yet, but had to rebuild my front diff after 3 nights of racing. It was full of foam and carpet fragments. Rear is still very smooth though. I run mine just tight enough not to slip, as do the other corally drivers at our track... Perhaps that's why we're all loose, Huh?
Make sure the Car Is'nt Tweaked/Check Down Travel By Raising and Lowering the Car with a Xacto Knife Right in the Center of the Car and Pay Attention to What Wheel lifts up First and Adjust the Droop Screws so That the Tires Lift up and touch Back Down at the Exact Same Time "This is Crucial" Get that right and Check for tweak on the MIP Tweak Station. Once The car is Straight Try adding a Little Up Travel "to the Rear" If your are Loose now Try About 3.5mm of Up Travel. If you are still loose add Another 1mm. I like Buku Rotation and Steeering on Small Carpet Tracks.
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Old 11-11-2005, 01:11 PM   #4191
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I haven't had to replace diff balls yet, just clean everything, relube, and go. Stays smooth so far.
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Old 11-11-2005, 01:12 PM   #4192
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Mo Denton "Corally Factory Team Driver" told me to Run Associated Clear on the Diff Balls and Associated Black on the Thrust Assembly.
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Old 11-11-2005, 01:15 PM   #4193
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I'll be putting my car on a set-up board this coming week. Droop is sitting at 5.5 mm with 4.5 to 5mm ride height. Droop is very even, both wheels come off table evenly. Haven't checked tweak, though. By increasing up travel do you mean decrease droop?
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Old 11-11-2005, 01:20 PM   #4194
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I know it is hard to believe you could have too much steering on a small, tight track, but I've got my dual rate down quite a bit and steering servo speed WAY down to compensate. Like I said the cars are fast! 3 of 5 cars in the A-Main were RDX Carpet-specs. Cars just seem "assy". If you kno what I mean.
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Old 11-11-2005, 01:23 PM   #4195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Banshee8530
I know it is hard to believe you could have too much steering on a small, tight track, but I've got my dual rate down quite a bit and steering servo speed WAY down to compensate. Like I said the cars are fast! 3 of 5 cars in the A-Main were RDX Carpet-specs. Cars just seem "assy". If you kno what I mean.
Throw conventional wisdom out the door and run the 17 lb rear spring-YES-on carpet with foam tires. Car will roll.. but carry speed. It will be a little slow to transition, but if you shorten up the rear camber link and stand up the rear shocks all the way-it will compensate.

Ray

Last edited by rayhuang; 11-11-2005 at 01:53 PM.
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Old 11-11-2005, 01:27 PM   #4196
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I considered lightening the spring in the rear, not that much, though. Guess I 'll try it. Minor change anyway mechanically speaking. Get scared of messing up agood thing you know?
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Old 11-11-2005, 01:50 PM   #4197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
You are over tightening your diff,
First thing to check is your C Clip in the long diff half. If it is bent at all or not completely seated in the channel, it can let your diff get loose then you of course tighten it not realizing that it is not the diff screw that is loose but something else...I too went through 3 broken diff screws until I talked with other RDX drivers...Yea they know who they are...LOL...
Check that clip and get a new one if you even think it is bent even a little....
Oh before you ask..it is only inside the complete diff rebuild or the complete diff, when purchasing.
Always check the new diff clips as well. I had one with the clip almost popping out.
Ok I am done...LOL
-Shookie <><
what is tight for foam tires? i adjust the diffs so they will not slip, but still have a smooth diff.The c clip was new and not bent.
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Old 11-11-2005, 02:06 PM   #4198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Banshee8530
I'll be putting my car on a set-up board this coming week. Droop is sitting at 5.5 mm with 4.5 to 5mm ride height. Droop is very even, both wheels come off table evenly. Haven't checked tweak, though. By increasing up travel do you mean decrease droop?
If you are Running 4.5 mm Ride Height. Do what I do. I have Two Ride Height Guages I slide them under the Rear Chassis "by the Motor and the last cell of your batt pack" do it evenly though. I would start out at 7mm which would =2.5mm of uptravel. Adjust Droop Screws so that Your Tires are Just Touching your Set-Up Board.

By the Way .5mm is Definitely Going to be Loose and Funky.
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Old 11-11-2005, 02:07 PM   #4199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC_Woody
I have the same problem, my diffs get gritty only after a couple of runs.
I'm still just running the stock steel balls. Dom has this problem too and he is running carbide balls. So I don't know how you guys are going months without rebuilding. After my 3rd race day with a diff.... rebuild time!

What does your thrust bearing look like? You may have the "old" one. The old one has an opening on one side of the thrust and looks very thin. If this is the case then that is your problem.

You say you have carbide balls installed, also get the ceramic thrust bearings.

I too had to rebuild more than I wanted to, until I did the carbide/ceramics now I have been on the same build for almost 3 months and it is still BUTTER SMOOTH!

I am only using the 4 cone washers, but remember to TAKE YOUR TIME while tightening the diff the first time. Work the diff after every small turn of the screw.

Hope this helps!
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Old 11-11-2005, 02:21 PM   #4200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imprsme
What does your thrust bearing look like? You may have the "old" one. The old one has an opening on one side of the thrust and looks very thin. If this is the case then that is your problem.

You say you have carbide balls installed, also get the ceramic thrust bearings.

I too had to rebuild more than I wanted to, until I did the carbide/ceramics now I have been on the same build for almost 3 months and it is still BUTTER SMOOTH!

I am only using the 4 cone washers, but remember to TAKE YOUR TIME while tightening the diff the first time. Work the diff after every small turn of the screw.

Hope this helps!
I will try using the ceramic thrust and see how it goes....

theory... Are you running on asphalt or foam? I wonder if the fine foam particles on a tight track just get everywhere more and get into the diff easier?
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