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Old 11-07-2005, 02:28 PM   #4096
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbonium
i used the white RPM's on my carpet car.... matches the white pulleys real nice!

Wes

Yeah yeah Wes, I have old ugly black pulleys!!!

Dom
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Old 11-07-2005, 02:35 PM   #4097
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I'll probably get laughed at, but in the holes where the bearings go into the knuckles, I used a piece of paper towel to take up the slack. I wrapped the bearings (or washers, which I use now) and then jammed them in there. Then, I trimmed excess. It's a little tight at first, but it loosens up quick and seems to last quite a while. It also has the advantage of filling only the existing space, and being simple to remove.

I suppose that's not elegant enough for the demanding RDX crowd, but it's been fine for my mediocre club racing skills. :-D
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Old 11-07-2005, 02:37 PM   #4098
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No, I actually think it's a smart idea! I would not want to mess with CA and wait for it to try when I'm racing and in a hurry to put the car back together! People will ask what the heck I'm doing in the toilet? I'll just tell them, "Getting parts!"

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Old 11-07-2005, 03:50 PM   #4099
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Old 11-07-2005, 04:00 PM   #4100
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ONLINE SHOPPING FIXED

Some of you may have tried to place orders over the weekend and noticed that everything appeared to be "No Longer Available". Well we upgraded our software last week and they did not inform us of any code changes so we made the code changes today. Everything should be fine now again. If you find any broken links let us know. Thanks!
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Old 11-07-2005, 04:04 PM   #4101
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Call me an infidel if ya want, but it looks like JRXS and TC4 C blocks and steering knuckles can easily be made to fit the front RDX A arms. Only a little bit of shaving from the sides of the block where the hinge pin goes thru is needed. The outer hinge pins are almost exactly the same diameter. AE or Losi CVD axles and bearings would need to be used, of course. The C blocks are very very close to the same height, so roll center shouldn't change. Haven't actually tried this yet, so I dont know about differences in steering ackerman/geometry. A quick first look shows that AE TC4 steering knuckles will probably be the closest to the original RDX, as far as ackerman/ geometry.

Why do this, you ask? Cost and durability, really. Aluminum C blocks can bend, without you even knowing it, throwing off your caster angles and handling. And they are expensive to replace. RDX plastic steering knuckles break out around the kingpins, since the pins to not extend far enough into the knuckle, and they are only plastic afterall, not a graphite composite. And aluminum RDX steering knuckles are really expensive, and can still bend or break. AE and Losi C blocks and steering knuckles are a bit more durable than RDX plastic ones, and far more readily available than the RDX parts. Especially for ppl who have run AE/Losi in the past and probably already have a handful of parts laying around (like me!)
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Old 11-07-2005, 05:29 PM   #4102
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Thanks for the advice. Since my wife won't let me work on the dining room
table anymore, I'll just move my stuff to the bathroom floor where my parts are. I just swapped out my cvd's (worn pin holes) and put the plastic knuckles on. It took away about 90% of the slop. I'm going to alter the aluminum ones though for durability reasons. I've run the shoe-cracker ball cups before and they are sweet. I've had them on order now for about a month at the LHS. Should have them this week.

Now since Corally has continued to update the kits with the improved parts, I'll put my two cents in on another subject. What's up with the aluminum turnbuckles (spaghetti noodles)? Great car, just wondering why they skimped on the TB's.

Sushi Boy, welcome back. I guess you've got a balance between school and racing figured out by now.
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Old 11-07-2005, 07:00 PM   #4103
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Well actually i've fitted Losi XXX-S diff puleys to my RDX they are much lighter and the same count for number of teeth.
3/32 carbide diff balls are lighter also compared to 3.5 mm diff balls.
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Old 11-07-2005, 07:07 PM   #4104
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Hi Pipi,

it s pace...i try to do that but i was not able to build the diff....it s seem that the bearing in the pulley and the one who goes in the outdrive are too wide and i was not able to thighten my diff!!

can you say what you are doing to be able to do it??

Pace
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Old 11-07-2005, 07:18 PM   #4105
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i put the bearing half and half on the puley and its stay there cause the bearing is fairly tight. and you got to file or grind the outdrive that has the nut in.grind the bearing suport by 1.5 mm and then use X-ray spacer to re-shim your diff in the bulkhead(shims 10x12 i think) One other thing you got to Dremel of the lip in the puley right by the diff balls.
Then all you got to do is use 3/32 carbide diff balls and ceramic thrust bearing and it's the smoothes dif ever seen!!!
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Old 11-07-2005, 07:21 PM   #4106
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i only use one bearing and when i say file the outdrive i mean in lenght.
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Old 11-07-2005, 11:13 PM   #4107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stiltskin
Now since Corally has continued to update the kits with the improved parts, I'll put my two cents in on another subject. What's up with the aluminum turnbuckles (spaghetti noodles)? Great car, just wondering why they skimped on the TB's.
I didn't know companies were including Titantium Turnbuckles.

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Old 11-07-2005, 11:23 PM   #4108
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I dont know but I kinda like Corally's turnbuckles
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Old 11-07-2005, 11:34 PM   #4109
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Default Diff Bearing Holders

Its not real clear in the manual but for foam carpet racing do you want the front diff bearing holders up or down? In the manual it shows the bearing holders down in the rear. Is this wear I should keep it for foam tires?
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Old 11-07-2005, 11:50 PM   #4110
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Thats where I've always left it.

-Korey
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