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Old 11-02-2005, 01:54 PM   #4051
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Default Can you hear that?!?!

Make sure you lube the blades too, they can bind up mid corner and if they're already worn could possibly click??? Also the inside of the tire rim could be rubbing against the arm when the wheel is 100% turned, I usually shave down the inside rim edge... Good luck
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Old 11-02-2005, 02:48 PM   #4052
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Default Roger is dialed!!!!!!!!!

And who are you going to thank when you dominate ?
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Old 11-02-2005, 02:58 PM   #4053
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Roger, Try setting the car up on blocks and running it about 1/4 throttle. then turn the wheels lock to lock while keeping the throttle constant and see if you get that chatter noise. My car does this on blocks but I have yet to hear it do it on the track. Has anyone else expirenced this noise in the drive train while turning the wheels? It seems like it's coming from the front end but I haven't been able to pinpoint where it's coming from. It only does it at low to mid throttle and while turning. Once i get it to start chattering it will do it until i lift off the gas. Other than that I love the car. After adjusting my setup technique to a nose heavy car it feels very good on the track and is fast.

Mike C
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Old 11-02-2005, 03:10 PM   #4054
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REPLACEMENT SET SCREWS FOR SPECIALIZED CVD BONES

Now available from SRC are replacement set screws for our Machined Steel and Aluminum CVD Bones used with the Steel Blades. Do not be without spare of these if you are to drop one at the track. There are 4 set screws to a bag.

PART NO. - SRC79179 - RETAIL $2.50

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Old 11-02-2005, 03:23 PM   #4055
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crisis641
Roger, Try setting the car up on blocks and running it about 1/4 throttle. then turn the wheels lock to lock while keeping the throttle constant and see if you get that chatter noise. My car does this on blocks but I have yet to hear it do it on the track. Has anyone else expirenced this noise in the drive train while turning the wheels? It seems like it's coming from the front end but I haven't been able to pinpoint where it's coming from. It only does it at low to mid throttle and while turning. Once i get it to start chattering it will do it until i lift off the gas. Other than that I love the car. After adjusting my setup technique to a nose heavy car it feels very good on the track and is fast.

Mike C

I have heard/seen this on a few cars. The only thing we were able to come up with is while the car has no load on the wheels and the wheels are turning the CVD is "maxxed" out The chatter/vibration you are hearing and seeing is the axle in the bone "maxxing" itself out as it rotates.

Not sure if this makes since but it is what we noticed. On the track you will not notice it.
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Old 11-02-2005, 03:28 PM   #4056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imprsme
I have heard/seen this on a few cars. The only thing we were able to come up with is while the car has no load on the wheels and the wheels are turning the CVD is "maxxed" out The chatter/vibration you are hearing and seeing is the axle in the bone "maxxing" itself out as it rotates.

Not sure if this makes since but it is what we noticed. On the track you will not notice it.
Correct. It is even more apparent with a Spool in the front end. You think the car is broken when you do it with a Spool.
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Old 11-02-2005, 03:37 PM   #4057
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Originally Posted by AARON YOUNG
And who are you going to thank when you dominate ?
of course, Aaron Young of Team Corally . This guy is definately an asset to Team Corally. He's fast and very helpful to all racers and hobbiest alike. Im not sure if he's got the full factory ride he deserves. Im sure the sales of Corally RDX kits and parts in Northern California have increased in demand for the past 3 months. There are alot of racers converting over to the Corally RDX not because of the superior craftsmanship of the corally kits, but rather for technical and support by sponsored drivers such as Aaron Young. I don't think i'l dominate like Aaron, but I can say this; I will put up a good fight for position in my qualifiers and mains.

Another big shout goes to John Hicks of HobbyTown USA. Him and I will be working on several set-ups for different applications and we wil be supporting Corally at club races and other big events.

I almost forgot Steve Turada for the help and letting me try his car for the first time on carpet before the regionals.

Thanks alot guys.
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Last edited by Roger; 11-02-2005 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 11-02-2005, 04:07 PM   #4058
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Originally Posted by Roger
of course, Aaron Young of Team Corally . This guy is definately an asset to Team Corally. He's fast and very helpful to all racers and hobbiest alike. Im not sure if he's got the full factory ride he deserves. Im sure the sales of Corally RDX kits and parts in Northern California have increased in demand for the past 3 months. There are alot of racers converting over to the Corally RDX not because of the superior craftsmanship of the corally kits, but rather for technical and support by sponsored drivers such as Aaron Young. I don't think i'l dominate like Aaron, but I can say this; I will put up a good fight for position in my qualifiers and mains.

Another big shout goes to John Hicks of HobbyTown USA. Him and I will be working on several set-ups for different applications and we wil be supporting Corally at club races and other big events.

I almost forgot Steve Turada for the help and letting me try his car for the first time on carpet before the regionals.

Thanks alot guys.

roger.. YGPM sir
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Old 11-02-2005, 05:38 PM   #4059
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger
of course, Aaron Young of Team Corally . This guy is definately an asset to Team Corally. He's fast and very helpful to all racers and hobbiest alike. Im not sure if he's got the full factory ride he deserves. Im sure the sales of Corally RDX kits and parts in Northern California have increased in demand for the past 3 months. There are alot of racers converting over to the Corally RDX not because of the superior craftsmanship of the corally kits, but rather for technical and support by sponsored drivers such as Aaron Young. I don't think i'l dominate like Aaron, but I can say this; I will put up a good fight for position in my qualifiers and mains.

Another big shout goes to John Hicks of HobbyTown USA. Him and I will be working on several set-ups for different applications and we wil be supporting Corally at club races and other big events.

I almost forgot Steve Turada for the help and letting me try his car for the first time on carpet before the regionals.

Thanks alot guys.
Yep ...I'm guilty of buying 2 complete setups ...double diff kits, all kinds of spare parts, 4 mm chasi (is that the plural of chassis?) , spring sets for both carpet and asphalt, castor blocks, etc, etc, etc ....due to A-Yo ...especially after he let me drive one of his cars last month.
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Old 11-02-2005, 09:31 PM   #4060
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Originally Posted by Hebiki
roger.. YGPM sir
brotha Hebiki: YGPM
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Old 11-02-2005, 10:00 PM   #4061
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ahhh...group hug
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Old 11-02-2005, 11:09 PM   #4062
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crisis641
Roger, Try setting the car up on blocks and running it about 1/4 throttle. then turn the wheels lock to lock while keeping the throttle constant and see if you get that chatter noise. My car does this on blocks but I have yet to hear it do it on the track. Has anyone else expirenced this noise in the drive train while turning the wheels? It seems like it's coming from the front end but I haven't been able to pinpoint where it's coming from. It only does it at low to mid throttle and while turning. Once i get it to start chattering it will do it until i lift off the gas. Other than that I love the car. After adjusting my setup technique to a nose heavy car it feels very good on the track and is fast.

Mike C
I found this explaination as well......... from Adrian at Schumacher.

******************************
The chatter comes from the fact that no R/C cars use true CVD's (Constant Velocity Drive). MIP and TiR CVD are actually just fancy rebuild-able UJ's (Universal Joints). The are no problems when the wheels are straight. However, as the wheels turn the UJ causes the axle to accelerate up to 7 deg ahead of the dog bone for 180 deg then decelerate 7 degrees behind the dog bone for the remaining 180. This 360deg cycle of acceleration and deceleration of the axle causes the chattering. Note that the car will not chatter with the wheels and tires off the car. The inertia of the rotating wheel resisting the axles acceleration and deceleration causes the chattering.

As the the drive system wears with use the chattering gradually gets better them pretty much disappears. The tiny amount of play that develops in a CVD with use allows the system to because less sensitive to and eventually can absorb the inherent oscillation.

This is why all the new guys have a problem with this but not the guys with older cars.

The chatter is only noticeable with spools. Diffs and one ways can absorb the oscillation.

All sedans chatter. The JRXS is the first car with a sort-of real CVD. It uses a very old articulating joint design to function as a CVD. It works and is very clever. Their ads say patent pending but I doubt they will be able to patent it as it has been around since the 1800's.

Others are working on real CVD's but the problem is that the materials available do not allow us to make true CVD's within the space and weight limitations required by our cars with acceptable durability....for now.
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Old 11-02-2005, 11:10 PM   #4063
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ahhh...group hug
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Old 11-03-2005, 12:09 AM   #4064
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Would someone mind reposting the best way to adjust the diff when using 6 washers? I'm running dual diffs, foam tires on carpet. I finally grabbed some ceramic thrusts (have the balls already) and new rings, so I want to get it right. Also, the washers go like this ()()(), right?

Also, when looking at the different setups, like Cuffs' IIC for example, what brand shock oil are you guys using? I've just recently learned that not all brands are created equal. :-D Still a n00b I guess.
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Old 11-03-2005, 07:17 AM   #4065
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In my fears of breaking more arms and knuckles off of the right side, I have removed 2 of the 6 thrust cone washers (as a prevent defense) from my front, and have shimmed my arms 1mm away from the bulkhead. Hopefully, this will stop the CVD from crashing into the diff screw head on impact. Time will tell, but all indications say it is the solution to my problem.

For adjustments, I get the screw to close in on the diff assembly, the gradually tighten it up, using quarter turn increments, then 1/8th turns at a time. I don't compress the diff completely, but keep checking the tension on the center pulley. With the front end completely assembled, you can stick a small flat head screw driver into the screw head, and turn the left front wheel to tighten the diff. Be warned though, VERY little turn of the wheel is needed to make small steps with the tension of the diff. Keep getting tighter until the center pully doesn't slip when you are holding both front tires.

With ceramic diff balls and a fly crap of diff lube in each ball race hole, the diff is gonna feel super smooth. After one pack, you won't believe how silky it is. After one pack, re-check the tightness of the pulley. Once it's set, you shouldn't need to adjust the diff again.

Remember, don't over tighten these diffs. It isn't necessary to crank them down and stretch the diff screw. These screws have shown to be fairly soft, and they don't like to be stretched. This is how people are breaking them, when the diff seems to "feel" looser, they re-tighten the diff, and stretch the screw some more until it finally snaps off in your left diff half.

Patience will reward you here with silky smooth diffs that will need ZERO maintenance.



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