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Old 10-26-2005, 06:31 AM   #3916
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Originally Posted by Roger
Brian: Im in the process of building my car. Can you show a pix of this ? Thanks.
Roger, add another mm spacer behind the roll center chingaderas i.e. there would be 2 of them not just 1.
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Old 10-26-2005, 06:36 AM   #3917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
If you're breaking front arms make sure you have your arms spaced out an extra 1 mm from the bulkheads. Several others and myself have noticed that when this is done nearly all front-end breakages go away. Are you running aluminum steering blocks? If you space out the front you don't have to.

Side note: Running the front wider will give the car a touch more steering, also.
I did this with mine (the 2 mm thing) and my first time out with the cars did a lot of durability high impact testing with walls and other cars over a 4 day period (all was part of my plan) ....only thing I broke was a steering knuckle, and this was literally with about 30 packs worth of high impact stress testing.
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Old 10-26-2005, 07:19 AM   #3918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
Just an FYI about something I discovered with the car tonight.

I had some bearings go bad (they were old, we race on carpet) so I decided to replace them all with a ceramic kit from ACER. Everything worked great, and it did a great job of reducing the friction in the drive train. I can't say I noticed much on the track, but that's a different debate.

Anyway, with the ceramic bearings in there, the front pulley seems to seize up at weird intervals. I noticed that the real pulley has a slight amount of play between the bulkheads (maybe 1mm on each side) but the front pulley is completely jammed with NO play at all. It looks like that lack of play in the front was putting pressure on the larger seals of the ceramic bearings, and causing them to bind. Replacing them with the stock bearings fixed the problem

So, I'm not sure what that means, exactly. It's not immediately apparent what design benefit is given by having the front pulley have no wiggle room, but it does seem to cause issues with ceramic bearings that don't use metal shields. If there's no benefit, an extra tiny bit of play in the front would be a nice change for the RDX2. :-)
That's sounds really odd. I have been running Acer Ceramic bearings in my RDX since the car came out and have never had an issue.
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Old 10-26-2005, 08:26 AM   #3919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
Actually you have to order Pro-Lite oval spur gears for the RDX. In stock at EAMotorsports.com by the way

EA
Thanks for the clarification!! See ya in two days!!


To syndrome.Maybe the Acer ceramic bearings are just a hair wider? if so-then with a small end mill or cardide dremel bit with a flat end-you can make your bearing cups just a hair deeper giving a little more endplay for the pulley to move around in. That way you can put your ceramics back in.
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Old 10-26-2005, 09:57 AM   #3920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
Just an FYI about something I discovered with the car tonight.

I had some bearings go bad (they were old, we race on carpet) so I decided to replace them all with a ceramic kit from ACER. Everything worked great, and it did a great job of reducing the friction in the drive train. I can't say I noticed much on the track, but that's a different debate.

Anyway, with the ceramic bearings in there, the front pulley seems to seize up at weird intervals. I noticed that the real pulley has a slight amount of play between the bulkheads (maybe 1mm on each side) but the front pulley is completely jammed with NO play at all. It looks like that lack of play in the front was putting pressure on the larger seals of the ceramic bearings, and causing them to bind. Replacing them with the stock bearings fixed the problem.

So, I'm not sure what that means, exactly. It's not immediately apparent what design benefit is given by having the front pulley have no wiggle room, but it does seem to cause issues with ceramic bearings that don't use metal shields. If there's no benefit, an extra tiny bit of play in the front would be a nice change for the RDX2. :-)
Send those bearings that are causeing the problem into ACER...they should send you out the right ones...
I would first take the ones from the rear diff and put them in the front and vise versa to see if the front bearings are the problem and if that solves it then just send in those two bearings but if it doesn't fix it then you have a binding issue...and need to go through the car and make sure your bulkheads are square..I.E. lay them on a flat level surface to see if they are bent or twisted.
Just trying to help with troubleshooting tips.
I hope that you get it figured. Acer is a pretty good company they will replace the bad bearings.
But as far as the ceramic bearing debate...
Here is what I have noticed.
Ceramics are great as far as durability goes and smoothness but you must maintance them regularly to get the best benifits from them.
Also I have removed all ceramics from the axcels because the ceramics have such a very close tolarance and one hit they can start to bind. But on the diffs to include the center and steering linkage they are worth every cent...ultra smooth and never wear out..
But hey this all just my two pennies...
-SHookie <><
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Old 10-26-2005, 10:48 AM   #3921
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hello all i just bought a ft tc4 ran it three weeks then came a guy with a corally rdx carpet spec last week it looked awesome and ran awesome so quiet. now i am in love and want to purchase one i called stormer and they are out for two weeks anybody know where else i can get one from thanks
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Old 10-26-2005, 10:50 AM   #3922
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Theres a used one in the for sale forums right now I think. New I think will be two weeks in the US.
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Old 10-26-2005, 10:54 AM   #3923
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For what it's worth, I'm running the SRC 4.0mm chassis. I've noticed someone else mention the lack of play in the front, but I don't remember what chassis they were using, or if that's possibly a factor. I'll check the bulkheads for damage, and try moving bearings around as you suggested.

For the rest of you, does your pulley have play in the rear and not in the front? That is, can you move it at all from side to side when it's between the bulkheads. What chassis?
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Old 10-26-2005, 10:56 AM   #3924
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yeah, but it's the old chassis.

My sponsor shop has a NIB in stock... UK kit with the delrin pulleys and new rear body post plate... I do have to say I robbed the short diff 1/2 and diff screw out of it for a race but I'll be replacing those parts this coming Saturday. It's not missing any other parts.

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Old 10-26-2005, 10:58 AM   #3925
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Speedworld raceway had two they got in yesterday while I was at the shop ...not sure if he still has them 916-783-8864.
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Old 10-26-2005, 12:09 PM   #3926
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hey guys if anyone needs a almost new AMB Transponder...

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=88442
Thanks,
-Shookie <><
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Old 10-26-2005, 12:58 PM   #3927
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Hey Shookie, thanks again for the shock tower Sat. night. In the WTB forum a few guys are looking for transponders.
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Old 10-26-2005, 01:06 PM   #3928
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Hey Guys, I have been looking at the setup sheets on the Corally website, in the spot below wheelbase adjustment it says "Shims under couplers". Is this the trackwidth adjustment?
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Old 10-26-2005, 01:09 PM   #3929
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hey guys if you are having too much slop in the front caster blocks and rear blocks.... and are using just the E-clips for the hinge pins.. install the setscrews also!! makes a world of difference huge difference!!

Stumbled on last night!! took out approx. 95% of the slop!!

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Old 10-26-2005, 01:12 PM   #3930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrick
Hey Shookie, thanks again for the shock tower Sat. night. In the WTB forum a few guys are looking for transponders.
Hey Patrick,
Not a prob...Got my replacement from Speedtech yesterday..just glad you didn't have to call it quits that night...
Yea I already sold the transponder in the WTB in like 25 minutes...lol...
Almost as fast as my YRX12 on Ebay...Less than 10....wow...
Got to love it...
Now just a couple of parts I am waiting for and my spare RDX will be going up for sale...Just needed to get the oneway bearing holders and then it is ready..
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