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Old 10-18-2005, 06:42 PM   #3766
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Old 10-18-2005, 07:16 PM   #3767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
The newer car as the latest chassis revision which I just found out about yesterday. The slots are so you can open it up and tape batteries in like someone mentioned. If you notice there is a slot in front of the 6 cells as well. Only thing is once you cut the rear slot you cannot go back to the strap.

You will also notice that slots have been removed under the motor and there are 2 holes drilled now too. That is for later use.

Jeff
It all makes sense now, yea cause both chassis seem to fit 37/38's just fine. ...I just got my Specialized 4 mm chassis which I will be swapping out after this weekends region 12 carpet champs (rubber tire classes for stock and 19t) ....any words of wisdom on this particular chassis?
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Old 10-18-2005, 08:17 PM   #3768
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I thought they were not planning on changing the rt side bulkhead as posted earlier...lol...funny with the new chassis the left bulkhead fits on the right side with minor modifcations... Is it time to bust out the dremel ?

Jamie


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
The newer car as the latest chassis revision which I just found out about yesterday. The slots are so you can open it up and tape batteries in like someone mentioned. If you notice there is a slot in front of the 6 cells as well. Only thing is once you cut the rear slot you cannot go back to the strap.

You will also notice that slots have been removed under the motor and there are 2 holes drilled now too. That is for later use.

Jeff
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Old 10-18-2005, 08:19 PM   #3769
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Quote:
Originally Posted by senna555
I thought they were not planning on changing the rt side bulkhead as posted earlier...lol...funny with the new chassis the left bulkhead fits on the right side with minor modifcations... Is it time to bust out the dremel ?

Jamie
No.

Jeff
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Old 10-18-2005, 09:15 PM   #3770
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
BTW, Ray and others, after some serious inspection of my broken front end parts, the lightbulb went on as to the problem with my parts breakage. The CVD on the right is definitely colliding with the interior of the diff, however, it isn't what I thought it was. It is smacking into the diff screw head. Using 6 cone washers in the thrust assembly in the diff, the screw will stick out about .030" further than normal. In a direct lateral impact, like I have been having, the CVD slams against the screw head, and explodes everything soft on the axle.

I shimmed the lower blocks out 1mm on each side, and it looks like all of the clearance issues have been taken care of. I think this should fix all of the breakage problems, regardless of the bumper being used.
My manual calls for using only 4 cone washers. That's all i have been using since day one and never had any problems. Try switching to 4 instead of 6 to let the head of the diff screw sit inside the outdrive further.
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Old 10-18-2005, 09:29 PM   #3771
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koabich
My manual calls for using only 4 cone washers. That's all i have been using since day one and never had any problems. Try switching to 4 instead of 6 to let the head of the diff screw sit inside the outdrive further.
The "6 washer" deal is the hot ticket right now in diff rebuilding.
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Old 10-18-2005, 09:44 PM   #3772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarshGuy
The "6 washer" deal is the hot ticket right now in diff rebuilding.
How is it the hot ticket? Can you please explain...what are the advantages of using 6 washers?
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Old 10-18-2005, 10:33 PM   #3773
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Then you get to tell everyone you're not following the manual.

It makes you part of the cool crowd, one of those "in the know".

(all in fun)
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Old 10-18-2005, 10:36 PM   #3774
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The 6 washers allow for finer diff tension adjustment.
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Old 10-19-2005, 05:26 AM   #3775
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koabich
How is it the hot ticket? Can you please explain...what are the advantages of using 6 washers?
I have no idea ...I saw that here: http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=49110 ...I haven't tried it yet, but will be so I can be one of the cool crowd in the know homeboys .
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Old 10-19-2005, 07:43 AM   #3776
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LasagnaCat
Then you get to tell everyone you're not following the manual.

It makes you part of the cool crowd, one of those "in the know".

(all in fun)
If being part of the cool crowd makes you constantly break tons of parts, I'm happy to be the biggest nerd around!!

I never had a problem with 4 washers and I have always been able to get the diffs adjusted perfectly. I cannot imagine 6 washers making any kind of difference...at least for me.
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Old 10-19-2005, 08:02 AM   #3777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koabich
If being part of the cool crowd makes you constantly break tons of parts, I'm happy to be the biggest nerd around!!

I never had a problem with 4 washers and I have always been able to get the diffs adjusted perfectly. I cannot imagine 6 washers making any kind of difference...at least for me.
Yea I have no idea, I built my cars with the 4 washers & with the stock stuff per the manual, I haven't even put either of the cars on a track yet (that will happen torrow - sunday at the region 12 carpet champs) ...I am orderng all the stuff that thread was talking about to see the diff between the "kit built diffs" and the "hot ticket diffs".
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Old 10-19-2005, 08:06 AM   #3778
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sushi Boy
The 6 washers allow for finer diff tension adjustment.
Agreed-the diff tightens up with less tension on the bolt-whihc is a good thng. It doesnt feel like loose-then fully tight with a 1/32 of a turn. if you run rubber tires-you might be able to get away with 4 washers, but on foams where we lock that sucka up HARD-6 washers is a must.
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Old 10-19-2005, 09:14 AM   #3779
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If you feel that you have no range of adjustment, maybe you compressed the washers too much from the get go. If they get compressed to much, they can loose there "spring effect" meaning that 1/32 either locks it or slips it.

I have never had any problem using the 4 washers, the biggest thing is to make sure you don't over tighten when building. I think the problem is that so many people convert from other cars that have the "lock it down, back it off a 1/4 turn approach". The minute you lock down the diff screw, it's done pretty much. Tighten little by little until you cant slip it, then if you prefer it tighter, use fine step adjustments.

I don't see why you have to run 6 unless your not building properly, but to each his own.
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Old 10-19-2005, 09:30 AM   #3780
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Which servo saver do you use? Does the large Kimbrough fit or should I stick with the smaller one?
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