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Old 10-11-2005, 02:31 PM   #3646
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
No need for the Tamiya shocks since the standard ones are super smooth and work fine.

Jeff
I aggree...why would you need the Tamiya shocks. The Corally shocks are every bit as good and as easy to build!
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Old 10-11-2005, 02:36 PM   #3647
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Originally Posted by koabich
I have found with the RDX, you do have to adjust the EPA at least more than any other car I have ever owned. I am currently running 66% EPA both left and right. Any more than that, and my wheels rub on the shocks but I still have enough steering for even the tightests tracks. I run the shocks in the outermost holes with 28 mm foams and 1mm wheel spacers. I can space the wheels out more but then I am no longer race legal.
Thanks guys for the advice. I have been doing exactly what everyone recommends-more steering from set-up, but remember with more steering comes the possibility of any number of bad things that will cause you to be slower instead of faster. Theres excessive roll, lack of driveability, digging, loss of corner speed, squaring up too much.

I know that I could solve all these issues by narrowing the arms and running wide hexes-but its NOT the way I want to go. I could also sauce the tires all the way out to the orange strip. But neither solution seems appealing ot me for different reasons right now. I was mostly hoping to find a way to move the shocks out of the way of the rim without altering my geometry.
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Old 10-11-2005, 03:05 PM   #3648
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Ray, if you're not, try running about 1 degree of toe-out in the front. That not only nets you some steering travel but gets the car into the corner harder and at least with my car it seems to carve through better, as well. I have my EPA set at like 85% and I think the D/R is about 75%. I have about 3-3.5 mm of clearance between the rim and the shock perch at full lock...maybe a little more.
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Old 10-11-2005, 03:12 PM   #3649
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
Ray, if you're not, try running about 1 degree of toe-out in the front. That not only nets you some steering travel but gets the car into the corner harder and at least with my car it seems to carve through better, as well. I have my EPA set at like 85% and I think the D/R is about 75%. I have about 3-3.5 mm of clearance between the rim and the shock perch at full lock...maybe a little more.
I might try that Brian. I am running zero toe right now and my cars squaring up fine on exit-I could stand to gain a little turn in and lose exit. It didnt finish the corner well enough for me to want to try toe out before-but now I think I can do it.

Thanks,
Ray
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Old 10-11-2005, 10:19 PM   #3650
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Does the kit have everything a racer needs or are there parts that are needed. Thanks.
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Old 10-11-2005, 10:23 PM   #3651
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Does the kit have everything a racer needs or are there parts that are needed. Thanks.
Guess it depends what kit you purchase.............. it includes a battery strap (Xray doesn't haha), it includes front and rear 1.9mm swaybars with mounts (Once again, Xray doesn't), it includes aluminum C-hubs and rear hubs. You can get it with a one-way or a double diff setup.

It is definately a race kit out of the box. Obviously you would need springs, optional caster blocks, etc seperately to tune it.

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Old 10-12-2005, 06:10 AM   #3652
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Originally Posted by Roger
Does the kit have everything a racer needs or are there parts that are needed. Thanks.
The double diff kit's appear to be out of stock everywhere, so you end up having to get the oneway kit + diff + 4 degree castors to run foam on carpet (I'm assuming that's what you want it for??)
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Old 10-12-2005, 08:11 AM   #3653
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harsh--look at you all posting info and all..
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Old 10-12-2005, 08:15 AM   #3654
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Hi guys im looking at buying a RDX but im wanting to find a good supplier of parts most likley in Hongkong as they are usually cheaper over there

can anyone tell me where I can get parts at a good price

thanks
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Old 10-12-2005, 08:16 AM   #3655
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harsh--look at you all posting info and all..
You know you want one LMAO!!!
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Old 10-12-2005, 08:22 AM   #3656
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Seriously, buy the UK-spec kit, a black spring kit for rubber tires (or silver spring kit for foam tires), a Rubberneck firm front bumper and a set of (20) ceramic diff balls. You'll need nothing else to be right up at the front really fast, and you don't even really need the diff balls. Superior Hobbies has the UK kits, and even one sitting on eBay.

Other tuning & backup items to eventually purchase:
- .5 & 1 toe shims
- plastic suspension caster clips
- spare screw package
- M3 Nyloc nuts
- spare steering knuckles
- spare a-arms
- spare CVD plastic blades
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Old 10-12-2005, 08:22 AM   #3657
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_barbarian
Hi guys im looking at buying a RDX but im wanting to find a good supplier of parts most likley in Hongkong as they are usually cheaper over there

can anyone tell me where I can get parts at a good price

thanks
I would check www.corally.com for different international distributors and dealers. They would know all the contacts overseas.

Jeff
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Old 10-12-2005, 08:24 AM   #3658
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Is anoyone having problems making ride height (i.e. low enough) using the low roll center pivot blocks? ...I can't seem to get my rear lower than 7 mm with the shocks as short as they can go ...I can get the ride height I need with Xray & Tamiya shock collars, but they're loose as hell as in one good "t-bone while I'm on my lid" they WILL fall off
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Old 10-12-2005, 08:56 AM   #3659
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I am using the Yokomo stock spring retainers and short shock ends. They seem to keep things right.

Hope that helps,
-Shookie <><
Quote:
Originally Posted by HarshGuy
Is anoyone having problems making ride height (i.e. low enough) using the low roll center pivot blocks? ...I can't seem to get my rear lower than 7 mm with the shocks as short as they can go ...I can get the ride height I need with Xray & Tamiya shock collars, but they're loose as hell as in one good "t-bone while I'm on my lid" they WILL fall off
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Old 10-12-2005, 09:06 AM   #3660
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Associated spring retainers work as well. They are a little loose but I have never lost a spring or bound one up.
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