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Old 09-26-2005, 09:29 PM   #3496
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Ray, I knew you'd be glad to be back to the real deal
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Old 09-26-2005, 09:36 PM   #3497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
Ray, I knew you'd be glad to be back to the real deal
YOuve been a lot of help!! I have started to understand the car a little now from all the help and i am starting to make changes just for me. Its taken a good long while to understand the car, but I guarantee you-it lets you know when a change isnt the right one and you really know it when you make a good chnage. Its like a light switch!!

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Old 09-26-2005, 11:19 PM   #3498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
Pulleys are $18 each retail, they are one piece machined pulleys.
Not sure if they're the same, since I got impatient and purchased them early, but my white pulleys have an outer retaining ring that sort of snaps into place. Not really a big deal, and I didn't notice until one came loose (oddly enough, during a clean race). A tiny bit of super glue cured that.

Congratulations to all the Team Corally guys, you make us underlings proud. I'm anxious to try Cuffs' setup, sounds like it's a good starting point as I prepare to enter the next few months of nothing but practice.
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Old 09-27-2005, 04:57 AM   #3499
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Thanks you mike from corally usa... I got the missing parts..

now..... I am like few of people here...
can't builds those shocks right...
it seems there is too much air volume at the shock cap.

right now i have my yokomo shocks hook up....

~Ming

Last edited by aoizip; 09-27-2005 at 07:31 AM.
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Old 09-27-2005, 05:38 AM   #3500
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Was Jeff Cuff running a motor fan or sway bars?
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Old 09-27-2005, 08:08 AM   #3501
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I don't believe so, and no.
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Old 09-27-2005, 09:15 AM   #3502
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Here's how I build the shocks, and once another guy tried it, he thoguth it was very simple.

Fill shock almost to rim, then work shaft up and down just a couple times. Let the big bubbles come to the top, don't worry about the small ones. Pull the shaft all the way down, then put the bladder cap on the top of shock. Use your little finger or something like and allen wrech and gently push down on the middle of the bladder. A little oil will come out of the top of the shock, no worries. Do this until the bladder sits flush and has a U shape. There shouldn't be any upward dome. Then put the aluminum cap on and your all set.

The small air bubbles will not matter. Remember, the reason for a bladder is si that the shock s don't have to each be built with exactly the same amount of oil. With the aluminum cap off, make sure that each bladder domes up when you run the shaft in, if it does your good to go.
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Old 09-27-2005, 09:19 AM   #3503
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One thing I have also found when building the shocks, if you build the shock and it feels like it has a "dead" spot in it, this isn't your oil mixture. Most likely what is happening is that there is play between the e-clips and shock piston. My latest batch of pistons seemed to have more play than normal. You can use .005 motor shims as necessary to take the play out. This will eliminate the dead spot that you may think is too much air.
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Old 09-27-2005, 10:08 AM   #3504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallstreet
jeff i got my kit in july and it doesnt have the updated parts... i bought it from ajs raceway and he got it from you guys after i placed the order,,,, it took him sometime to get the kit from you guys as well
I would have to see how old his invoice is/was. The kits just recently had the white pulleys added.

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Old 09-27-2005, 10:10 AM   #3505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
Not sure if they're the same, since I got impatient and purchased them early, but my white pulleys have an outer retaining ring that sort of snaps into place. Not really a big deal, and I didn't notice until one came loose (oddly enough, during a clean race). A tiny bit of super glue cured that.

Congratulations to all the Team Corally guys, you make us underlings proud. I'm anxious to try Cuffs' setup, sounds like it's a good starting point as I prepare to enter the next few months of nothing but practice.
Correct...... the ring does snap in still. It is one piece meaning no screws probably like the previous ones. It is probably easier and cheaper to machine the pulley and have the side ring snap into place.

Jeff
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Old 09-27-2005, 11:52 AM   #3506
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Hey Jeff, a little off-topic, but I'm curious. It seems like you're just as competitive (if not more so) in modified with the factory guys as you are in 19T with the privateers+sponsors. Do you find one harder than the other in terms of driving, or competition or anything like that? Seems like you're one of the only guys that consistently races on both sides of the "line," as it were.
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Old 09-27-2005, 12:21 PM   #3507
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Need some help. What parts do i need to to set up a rdx ( the oneway kit ) for carpet with foam tires. I have a front diff comming. The car i have is about a year old what updates should i get. Any help on this would be great.
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Old 09-27-2005, 12:30 PM   #3508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
Hey Jeff, a little off-topic, but I'm curious. It seems like you're just as competitive (if not more so) in modified with the factory guys as you are in 19T with the privateers+sponsors. Do you find one harder than the other in terms of driving, or competition or anything like that? Seems like you're one of the only guys that consistently races on both sides of the "line," as it were.
Well..... I have raced Mod TC for quite a while. I don't get to practice carpet much anymore so it is tough. I ran 19T as a second class. I think being competitive in Mod racing takes a lot more. It has really become even tougher the last couple years with the depth of fast guys.

19T has a lot of depth as well, but it is just different. The speeds are not the same and such, everything is amplified with Mod racing so you have to make sure everything is on point.

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Old 09-27-2005, 12:37 PM   #3509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotyournumber
Need some help. What parts do i need to to set up a rdx ( the oneway kit ) for carpet with foam tires. I have a front diff comming. The car i have is about a year old what updates should i get. Any help on this would be great.
Howdy....

Well, the older kits do not accept the new 3700 and 3800 cells. You can dremel the battery posts and shim up the posts 3mm to fit them.

Along with the front diff, you will need bearings (10x15mm) and bearing holders as the one-way bearings are bigger (12x18mm). The standard chassis and topdeck of 2.9mm should be fine. I would get the Silver Sprint set, probably some new thrust bearings as they might have the old ones installed. You will need snap ring pliers to check. Ceramic diff balls are a recommended option too. If you have drill bits I would run either the stock pistons, or drill them to a No. 56 sized hole. Other than that, you should be good to go with getting some spare parts.

Jeff
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Old 09-27-2005, 12:39 PM   #3510
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Thanks man, nice to get some insight.
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