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Old 09-25-2005, 08:19 AM   #3421
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Hey, cool avatar!

Something of note, guys. In the kit I am currently building, I disassembled the shocks in order to hand drill the piston holes to 1.3 mm, and guess what I found? The shocks already had the 1.3 pistons in there to begin with. I thought I may have mis-measured my drill bits, but when I opened the 4th shock in the kit, I found it to have the .9 mm hole piston in it.

Also, my UK-spec kit had the 75% extra stiff arms in it, too, making the silver spring kit and 3.4 mm upper deck the only real differences between the UK kit and the carpet kit. Anyone not planning on racing foam tires would be best off buying the $50 cheaper UK kit instead, and then the black spring kit ($17). I took my extra cash and put it into a Corally tool kit.

Nice running changes on the Corally RDX. Very cool.

So far, I am utterly impressed with just about everything, with few exceptions.



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Last edited by squarehead; 09-25-2005 at 10:23 AM.
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Old 09-25-2005, 09:57 AM   #3422
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Apex, where did you get the UK spec? Is it readily available in the US?
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Old 09-25-2005, 10:30 AM   #3423
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I believe that both the UK and the US-spec base kits are readily available in the US as far as I could tell. I got mine from Superior Hobbies in Florida, but I know Stormer and EA Motorsports both had them. It was $400, even. The Carpet kit was sold out everywhere I tried to find it, and after looking at the real differences in all of the kits, I realized that I still needed the black spring kit for rubber tires (the Carpet kit comes with the silver firm spring kit) anyway. I couldn't use the silver springs, and the 3.4mm upper deck is only $24. I had heard rumors that all of the kits had the 75% arms so I rolled the dice on that one. They were in my kit, too.

I'll save my pennies for the 3.4 mm top deck and 3.9 mm chassis should I ever decide that I need them, but to tell you the truth, this car is mucho-stiff as it is with the stock configuration. The only thing I could see the 3.9 chassis really changing is lowering the roll center more (another 1 mm lower). Still, it's an awfully pretty piece of jewelry.
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Old 09-25-2005, 07:46 PM   #3424
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The more i run tis car the more I like it. It works in mysterious ways a times, but its fast.

But I am having a problem and i need help. I canNOT build these shocks to save my life. Everytime I build them - I see oil leaking out of the cap and when I work the shock shaft-the bladder gets sucked into the body or when I take off the cap-the top of the bladder is filled with oil. or-out of the blue a shock that has been fine for 1000 laps all of a sudden is covered in oil.

I will let evereyone assume I am a newbie-so fire away-I need help. I am pissed at myself for not beiing able to solve it on my own and at the darn shocks too. What am I missing?

Ray
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Old 09-25-2005, 07:56 PM   #3425
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Not only does the RDX work great on carpet it also works great on super high bite concrete. It now holds the current stock and 19t lap records at Enid R/C Speedway on the current layout. Thanks Corally!
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Old 09-25-2005, 07:56 PM   #3426
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OK...here's how I build mine:

1. Pull the shock shaft all the way out
2. Fill the body with oil until you can just see it level with the top of the body
3. Work the shock shaft up and down a few times to get rid of air bubbles---the big ones will come up immediately and the small ones will gradually work their way up
4. Put the bladder on, a little oil may bleed over, but not much
5. Screw the cap on
6. The shock should have a small amount of rebound and should come out slowly
7. Done!

If it rebounds too fast, unscrew the cap a bit and compress the shock so that some oil comes out, then try again.
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Old 09-25-2005, 07:58 PM   #3427
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big pimpin for team corally usa chris tossolini puts the smack down with top ten finishes in all classes...the E man pulls out all the stops going the extra lap in stock rubber to TQ and win ...WORD homie....big game in 19 rubber getting fourth got skills on the rug dude ...next stop florida team corally full hit ......
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Old 09-25-2005, 08:02 PM   #3428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
OK...here's how I build mine:

1. Pull the shock shaft all the way out
2. Fill the body with oil until you can just see it level with the top of the body
3. Work the shock shaft up and down a few times to get rid of air bubbles---the big ones will come up immediately and the small ones will gradually work their way up
4. Put the bladder on, a little oil may bleed over, but not much
5. Screw the cap on
6. The shock should have a small amount of rebound and should come out slowly
7. Done!

If it rebounds too fast, unscrew the cap a bit and compress the shock so that some oil comes out, then try again.
Brian-I swear thats what I am doing I am going nuts.
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Old 09-25-2005, 08:26 PM   #3429
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Ray:

Hi,

Check the bladders for any slight misformations around the sealing edges.
"BURP" your bladders (like you did with the plastic Xray shocks)then follow Brian's instructions. (mine leaked until I burbed them) also check the shock caps.........mine seem to loosen up......but I really dont crank on them either.

Brain:

I'm liking the car to a point. it's still dumping on me in the corners. but then again I drive hard into the corners. I haven't picked up the thick chassis/top deck yet either. I'll run it some more thinking about a sway- bar........ but really don't want too. (old skool kicking in)

Thanks
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Old 09-25-2005, 09:40 PM   #3430
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Tim, do you have the low roll blocks yet?
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Old 09-25-2005, 10:30 PM   #3431
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I too had a problem with oil over fill! LOL

Just a little trick someone showed me... When you fill the body with oil and them place the bladder on top, use your pinkie to push down in the middle of the bladder. it may take a couple of times to get it to "SEAT" really well.

After I started doing this I have had NO problems with my shocks. Heck I just rebuilt them for the first time on over two months. I wouldn't have done them then...but I was rebuilding the car for the nats.
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Old 09-25-2005, 10:46 PM   #3432
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Brian:

Hi,

No not yet. I did borrow a set for a couple or weeks though. worked good... but I think I need a bigger track to work on as the one now is a sub 8 second lap in stock with a purple endbell from Cleveland last year. I really haven't done any tuning on it. besides we only get 4 hrs to race for 15 bucks leaving no time to test.
so I'm waiting for Lansing to open up. where we can race and test all day. I feel I'm not giving the car a fair chance now. I'll get the low roll blocks and go from there......you'll be hearing from me...........alot

Thanks
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Old 09-25-2005, 10:57 PM   #3433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Brian-I swear thats what I am doing I am going nuts.
Just do what Tosso, Seemu and Sakke do...run Tamiya shocks...
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Old 09-26-2005, 07:31 AM   #3434
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Hey guys, quick question for all of you.

I just scaled my finished and race-ready car, and it came in at 1435 grams or just about 50.6 oz, with transponder. I'm 100 grams or ~3.4 oz. too light for the All Star Carpet series rules.

I measured out 100g of lead and I am shocked the car is THAT light. Where are all of you guys stashing weight in this car? Do the Corally weights come in anything larger than the 5g weights? I'd need 20 of those things in the car!
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Old 09-26-2005, 07:48 AM   #3435
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For reference, 100 grams is about 18 quarters. Where the hell am I gonna put $4.50 in quarters?
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