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Old 08-16-2005, 11:23 AM   #3046
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Talking Broken diff screw....

Beware. If you use the techique Monte suggests...

Once you have threaded the diff screw out the other end, it will enlarge the threads in the small plastic piece. This will cause the diff screw to loosen. I have had this happen on both nuts I tried it on. I used a Zona (sp?) hobby saw, the thinnest blade out there, to cut it and alas the diff lasted half a main.

Also, when you snap that screw it is usually due to the diff being too loose. Heat is what causes the screw to snap (Corrally guys please try and get us guys some hardened screws!) So now the plastic has been hot and we are forcing a screw out the other side.... Not good.

What needs to happen is for us to petition Corrally for a replacement nut. That saves all of us who have broken one (or two ) the cost of a diff half.

Don't be afraid to tighten the diff to a ridiculous level. They will perform well when they are EXTREMELY tight. Most of us should be running the rear diff as tight as possible anyway, especially in Mod.

If you are new to this, set the diff tight, place the car on the track, hit the throttle and listen for slip. Keep tightening till its gone. You'll be surprised how far you have to go AND how smooth it is when that tight. Butter.

You can also replace the screw regularly to avoid this problem...

RE: Chassis prep. I have a different (and top secret) method of doing this but CRC has a great HowTo online. See it HERE

Its for 1/12 but works great for any chassis. For the battery slots, ALWAYS knock the edges off. Depending on the chassis, usually a 32nd of an inch around the edge will do. I use a flat and round file. Do yourself a favor and invest in a good set like THESE. You'll thank yourself.

Last edited by FreqETag; 08-16-2005 at 11:38 AM.
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Old 08-16-2005, 11:53 AM   #3047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T1Raycer
i think it will be cool to have a Forum on the Corally USA site!! like the Official Corally Forum and where you can talk whit the pro driver! like the one from Team Xray you can talk whit pro racer

Later!!
We have considered it but we do have the Corally Product Forum located on this website which we pay additional monies for. The current setup allows us not to be tied down moderating the forum and focus on responding to Questions, Emails and Processing Orders.

The current system seems to be pretty popular and working nicely. Perhaps in the future it will be added. You can talk with almost any of our Team Drivers on this thread or in the Corally Product Forum.
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Old 08-16-2005, 11:54 AM   #3048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by senna555
I have an rdx and I was thinking of building up a "unusual" second car to tinker with.

Does any one have the specs or link to info on this car...Assassin Prostock? The corally website has limited info.

What is thickness of top deck and main chassis.

Thanks

Jamie
Jamie......

The kits are still available and they are $250. The focus has obviously moved onto the RDX kit as that is the new generation and the hot item. The chassis and topdeck are both 2.9mm Graphite.
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Old 08-16-2005, 12:11 PM   #3049
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Guys i was wondering what do i need to complete the whole chassis etc we are having a few problems ordering so this gives me a bit of time to think what else i need to buy?

Thanks,

Will
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Old 08-16-2005, 12:37 PM   #3050
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actually, i think they break more from the thrust bearing getting rough. both of Monte's were the original, if i remember right, and no probs since they have been updated.

i run my diffs quite loose really, no slipping, but fairly free. never broke a screw, but the older thrusts were toast when i rebuilt them, and replaced with the copper colored ones....
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Old 08-16-2005, 01:22 PM   #3051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
You know, I'd pay sweet sweet cash for an RDX battery strap that was thinner, narrower and non-conductive. The thick upper plate makes it pretty hard to work with, and it's wide enough that I have to tweak (or cut) my battery bars. Would it compromise functionality to make it less obtrusive?

Also, what do you guys do with your chassis to keep the battery slots from being conductive. I've never been into sanding and sealing, but the edges on the 4mm chassis seem to be cutting into the shrink wrap on my cells a tiny bit. :-( Is sanding the one true way?
Actually our battery brace is no wider than say the AE strap. Now the Xray strap is ridiculous! The strap is close but if you just raise up the bars a little you should clear it fine.

Sanding and gluing is about the only thing you can do to prevent conducting. I have seen a Team Driver use electrical tape on top of the slots so the batteries sink in and are kinda "nested" in the tape. If you follow that.
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Old 08-16-2005, 01:23 PM   #3052
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DIFF SCREWS

We have been talking with Corally Holland previously and they are in the midst of finding some Hardened Steel Diff Screws to offer. We do not know a release date at this time as it is still in the works. We will keep you posted.
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Old 08-16-2005, 01:27 PM   #3053
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Does any one know?
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Old 08-16-2005, 02:41 PM   #3054
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mission_carbon
Does any one know?
I'm not sure what you mean. Do you want to know optional parts and spares to keep on hand? Let me know. Thanks.
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Old 08-16-2005, 04:08 PM   #3055
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Hey guy's

I'm getting my RDX's alumminum anondized a different color. I should be getting all the parts back tommorow. As soon as it's all together I'll post some pics. The color is a little hard to explain. I'll just let the pics show it. But I can't wait !!
The down time of my RDX is killing me. This "other" car I have to race on Friday's just ain't getting it done .
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Old 08-16-2005, 10:10 PM   #3056
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Whew-good news on the diff screws as I broke one tryinng to tighten up my rear diff after practice tonight. I was bummed-then I remembered I had an unbuilt diff (thanks Rob and Jeff !!). Me and the RDX had a pretty good night at the ole Gate. I held TQ in stock for two rounds. Then in third-I was improving my TQ by 4 seconds or so-and while passing a backmarker-he moved out of the way-then just grabbed a bunch of throttle and rear ended me and tucked my body. TQ run over. I had a 2nd place run in the main as Mike Wise was pulling away and I caught a board just a tick-but it was enough to detach the steering knuckle form the kingpin screw. but it was all fun while it lasted!!

Ray
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Old 08-16-2005, 10:27 PM   #3057
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mission_carbon
Guys i was wondering what do i need to complete the whole chassis etc we are having a few problems ordering so this gives me a bit of time to think what else i need to buy?

Thanks,

Will
Will-Right off the batt its a couple extra of the shorter sizes of turnbuckles (they dont bend-you juts need them to change camber link lengths), steering knuckles, extra diff kit and/or short outdrives, one pair of CVD bones, Hard bumper from Specialized RC, 1-each of extra 0.5. and 0.8 shims, 1.3 shock pistons, ultra low blocks for carpet/foam tires, 1-pkg. 75% hard arms and last, one package of narrow hexes-though I'd buy two in case you want to play with front track width.

If you decide to not get the hard bumper-then up the amount of arms and steering knuckles and CVD's.


Me thinks this is a good place to start.
Ray
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Old 08-16-2005, 10:39 PM   #3058
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that sounds about right specially the 21 mm turnbuckles to change the steering geometry and rollcenters. Go all out and include the option C-hubs, 2 or 4 degree depending on what kit you original purchased.

Don't forget to buy lots of driveshaft cups, replace the front CYDS with steel version and also go alloy on the steering knuckles, see what happen to Ray.
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Old 08-17-2005, 02:36 AM   #3059
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Will-Right off the batt its a couple extra of the shorter sizes of turnbuckles (they dont bend-you juts need them to change camber link lengths), steering knuckles, extra diff kit and/or short outdrives, one pair of CVD bones, Hard bumper from Specialized RC, 1-each of extra 0.5. and 0.8 shims, 1.3 shock pistons, ultra low blocks for carpet/foam tires, 1-pkg. 75% hard arms and last, one package of narrow hexes-though I'd buy two in case you want to play with front track width.

If you decide to not get the hard bumper-then up the amount of arms and steering knuckles and CVD's.

Me thinks this is a good place to start.
Ray

Thanks alot, i was thinking about getting the CVD's but i wont need the ultra low blocks seeing as im on tarmac. Also i got a set-up last nite and it said i needed shorter turnbuckels any way so ill be out to get that after i have built it all,

Thanks

Wills
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Old 08-17-2005, 05:45 AM   #3060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CorallyUSA
DIFF SCREWS

We have been talking with Corally Holland previously and they are in the midst of finding some Hardened Steel Diff Screws to offer. We do not know a release date at this time as it is still in the works. We will keep you posted.
Why not have someone there at CorallyUSA call a fastener distributor and check on M2.5x20 hardened screws? You can probably get some samples to test, and even get them with socket heads (for allen drivers).
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