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Old 08-14-2005, 08:41 PM   #3031
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yeah me too i had some problem my front end had too much play but i check it pretty close and it was the ball cups was used so i put some RPM ball cups and now the front end is pretty tigth no more play in the front!! it was the the ball cups for the midlle turnbuckles!

Later!
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Old 08-14-2005, 09:50 PM   #3032
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Fontaine
I have a HUDY 2mm ball end driver. Looks like Brian is RDX'ified
thats the way ive been doing it ... using some 2mm hex 3x6 stainless screws, with a Hudy ball driver. makes life MUCH simpler!
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Old 08-15-2005, 10:07 AM   #3033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyd
After reading this thread for a few days it really looks like Corally means business with this car and the support looks great. I was sceptical months ago but man looks like Corally stepped up big.
Thanks! We have really been working hard to maintain a high level of Customer Service and Support. Glad we have made you notice. Any suggestions please let us know on here or through our website. Thanks again!
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Old 08-15-2005, 10:27 AM   #3034
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Placed my first order last night for some Corally tools.....can't have the car without all the Corrally stuff......
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Old 08-15-2005, 01:15 PM   #3035
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Originally Posted by raffaelli
Placed my first order last night for some Corally tools.....can't have the car without all the Corrally stuff......
are you coming back to HC for carpet season?
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Old 08-15-2005, 01:24 PM   #3036
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i think it will be cool to have a Forum on the Corally USA site!! like the Official Corally Forum and where you can talk whit the pro driver! like the one from Team Xray you can talk whit pro racer

Later!!
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Old 08-15-2005, 01:30 PM   #3037
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are you coming back to HC for carpet season?
Don't know what my winter plans are yet. HC is 1.5 hours from my home. There is a carpet track about 10 minutes from my home.....
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Old 08-15-2005, 08:32 PM   #3038
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You know, I'd pay sweet sweet cash for an RDX battery strap that was thinner, narrower and non-conductive. The thick upper plate makes it pretty hard to work with, and it's wide enough that I have to tweak (or cut) my battery bars. Would it compromise functionality to make it less obtrusive?

Also, what do you guys do with your chassis to keep the battery slots from being conductive. I've never been into sanding and sealing, but the edges on the 4mm chassis seem to be cutting into the shrink wrap on my cells a tiny bit. :-( Is sanding the one true way?
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Old 08-15-2005, 09:24 PM   #3039
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Default Off topic: Specs on corally prostock car?

I have an rdx and I was thinking of building up a "unusual" second car to tinker with.

Does any one have the specs or link to info on this car...Assassin Prostock? The corally website has limited info.

What is thickness of top deck and main chassis.

Thanks

Jamie
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Old 08-15-2005, 09:35 PM   #3040
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CorallyUSA
Thanks! We have really been working hard to maintain a high level of Customer Service and Support. Glad we have made you notice. Any suggestions please let us know on here or through our website. Thanks again!
Well I have a car now and plan on placing more orders. With great service like that and Corally in Florida not being too far away standard shipping gets my stuff here in 3 to 4 days which is nice.

Just need to go over all I have and then decide what I need. Saw some nice stuff that I would like to order in the near future.
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Old 08-15-2005, 09:53 PM   #3041
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
You know, I'd pay sweet sweet cash for an RDX battery strap that was thinner, narrower and non-conductive. The thick upper plate makes it pretty hard to work with, and it's wide enough that I have to tweak (or cut) my battery bars. Would it compromise functionality to make it less obtrusive?

Also, what do you guys do with your chassis to keep the battery slots from being conductive. I've never been into sanding and sealing, but the edges on the 4mm chassis seem to be cutting into the shrink wrap on my cells a tiny bit. :-( Is sanding the one true way?
depends on how you run your outside bars... a guy here locally has his a little taller, and they go over the strap. i use the Corally tube-types, and put the tube right on the cell.

i personally dont take the strap off either end when changing batts, just loosen up the screws and slide out.

on the chassis plates... yup, sanding is the best way, but not much is required. i just basically knocked off the sharp edge and ca'ed lightly... no probs here.
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Old 08-15-2005, 10:12 PM   #3042
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I'm sure this has been covered a thousand times before, but what's the quick and dirty info on sanding? I assume you start by knocking down the edges, and then hit all the smooth surfaces with thin CA? Do you sand the CA when it's dry or anything? What grit sand paper?

I wrapped some electrical tape around the battery strap to be sure I don't short anything out, but I'd still prefer something that wasn't as wide or thick. I guess it's easy enough to make one if I can find the right material. Cutting the battery bars keeps me from having to bend them, but that's not exactly elegant.
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Old 08-15-2005, 10:30 PM   #3043
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i have a small triangle shaped file i use... or in a pinch, i have used a emery board, like a nail file... doesnt take much, just to dull the edge. then i use thin ca and seal it up.
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Old 08-16-2005, 06:05 AM   #3044
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I use Emery cloth. I take a long 1 inch stip and put my chassis in the vice grip with a small rag on it to protect the chassis from the vice. I then just use the Emery cloth back and forth over the edge of the chassis. Very easy witht he long strip of emery cloth and you get a really nice rounded finish. Then when I have done all the slots I use a Q-Tip with CA on it to seal the edges.
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Old 08-16-2005, 11:05 AM   #3045
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If anyone has broke a diff screw you know itís very hard to get out the broke off part thatís lefted in the short diff half and last night I found a way to get the broken screw out. I took a hacksaw with a fine blade and cut a groove in the end of the diff screw where it sticks threw the plastic lock-nut. (you will have to cut about 1/16 into the lock-nut) I then took a small flat bladed screw driver and use the groove I cut to back the screw out. The lock-nut still works great and I got my diff half back.
The only thing about using a hacksaw is the blade is pretty wide so make sure you are cutting across the middle of the screw and not on the side. If you can find something with a thinner blade it would be better, hope this helps.
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