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Old 08-14-2005, 08:51 AM   #3016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mission_carbon
It's good to know that you had alot of steering with it seeing as i couldnt get much out of the Mission which i should get back from the RDX
The Mission that ran with me yesturday was decent but had no corner speed. I guess it comes down if you hit the right setup for you and that track you race at. I know they work but I guess ever car has a sweet spot and that sweet spot is different for each person.
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Old 08-14-2005, 08:52 AM   #3017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
It will be just as impressive if not more so when you strap in a 19T.
-Shookie <><
NIce to know.
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Old 08-14-2005, 09:07 AM   #3018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyd
I ran stock but I think it will work pretty well in 19T as I had great amounts of steering. I think with 19T I would be another 2 tenths faster a lap. I might try a 19T run this weekend to see but I normally race stock. I will be looking to run 19T at a race in September in NC that I'm going to.

WYD-I had a simialr-but different experience. When i sold my original RDX to a guy in Canada i asked him if hed be willing to run it "out of the box" with my set-up as I thought it was good in stock, but awesome in 19t. His first race nght with car he TQ'd and won!! IN time he chnaged th set-up somewhat and has continued to clean house with it!!

Cars also great in modified. Its very , very tuneable and form its results on every surface-it appears to be very flexible as well. Its makes us "normal" guys really fast.

Its still not the easiest car to work on (i.e. changing roll centers, inboard toe, etc.), but it is one of the best-no doubt about it.

Ray
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Old 08-14-2005, 09:46 AM   #3019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
WYD-I had a simialr-but different experience. When i sold my original RDX to a guy in Canada i asked him if hed be willing to run it "out of the box" with my set-up as I thought it was good in stock, but awesome in 19t. His first race nght with car he TQ'd and won!! IN time he chnaged th set-up somewhat and has continued to clean house with it!!

Cars also great in modified. Its very , very tuneable and form its results on every surface-it appears to be very flexible as well. Its makes us "normal" guys really fast.

Its still not the easiest car to work on (i.e. changing roll centers, inboard toe, etc.), but it is one of the best-no doubt about it.

Ray
Hey Ray nice to know. I agree that changing the toe was a pain but not as bad as I though though. I only took off the right side mount and then it was easy. I think 6 or 7 screws and I can get to it but not as easy as some cars.

I'm very happy. I look forward to trying it on some other asphalt tracks but that don't look too good as the season is winding down and I only have 1 new track to go to for sure and maybe one other one. Thats ok though I see the results guys are getting with this car and its fast on all surfaces.
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Old 08-14-2005, 01:05 PM   #3020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawgmeat
Tosinlini's carpet set-up has 7mm for his downstop, I'm using the Shumacher's droop gauge and stand, my A-arm are leveled at 5mm, to acheive 7mm the a-arm would be in the upward position, I'm confused because there is no uniform standard for this measurement, I've heard different was of doing this. At 10 bucks a pop for low block I really want to be dead on, please help
Be careful when looking at the set-up sheets, some may say 7mm, and some may say 2mm, etc. This isn't necessarily where the arms sit on a droop gauge. The 7mm probably means that his car is 7mm from the surface when the tires lose contact.

For example, set your ride height to 5mm, then set your droop screws to where you can lift up on the car 2mm before the tires want to come off the table. Your car is then 7mm from the table when the front or rear tires barely touch. This same 2mm "down travel" is way different then setting the arms with a droop gage at 2mm. Make sense.

I don't know exactly how close, but if you set your arms with a droop gauge to 7mm, that's probably going to be close to 2mm downtravel, at least it is with rubber tires.
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Old 08-14-2005, 01:11 PM   #3021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyd
Hey Ray nice to know. I agree that changing the toe was a pain but not as bad as I though though. I only took off the right side mount and then it was easy. I think 6 or 7 screws and I can get to it but not as easy as some cars.
I will give you some screws this weekend at MD to fix this. Just make sure you get a 2mm ball end hex wrench. You can get the dubro one at a hobby shop for about $2. I have a bunch of extra screws, then you can angle the ball end wrench without removing any bulkheads or anything. Makes life simple .
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Old 08-14-2005, 01:53 PM   #3022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon Melton
I will give you some screws this weekend at MD to fix this. Just make sure you get a 2mm ball end hex wrench. You can get the dubro one at a hobby shop for about $2. I have a bunch of extra screws, then you can angle the ball end wrench without removing any bulkheads or anything. Makes life simple .
That would be great. I will just get a ball end 2mm driver then. Sent PM back at you.

You know who's making a nice 2mm ball driver? Corally hace one? I will have to check if MIP makes one.
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Old 08-14-2005, 02:43 PM   #3023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyd
You know who's making a nice 2mm ball driver? Corally hace one? I will have to check if MIP makes one.
Actually, this is one time you want the cheap tool, because the shank on it is narrow as compared to the ones with bigger grips. The small shaft allows it to get in between the front spool, and across to the other side of the car alot easier.
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Old 08-14-2005, 02:44 PM   #3024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon Melton
Actually, this is one time you want the cheap tool, because the shank on it is narrow as compared to the ones with bigger grips. The small shaft allows it to get in between the front spool, and across to the other side of the car alot easier.
Ok I will just some of the cheap black ones from the local hardware store.
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Old 08-14-2005, 06:49 PM   #3025
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I have a HUDY 2mm ball end driver. Looks like Brian is RDX'ified
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Old 08-14-2005, 07:39 PM   #3026
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Fontaine
I have a HUDY 2mm ball end driver. Looks like Brian is RDX'ified
Car felt great. It made me look pretty good this weekend. Will see how it goes for next weeks race.
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Old 08-14-2005, 07:54 PM   #3027
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Me whit my RDX i have pretty good succes whit it!! i am pretty close to the best driver in stock at my club i think i am about .5 sec behind him I cant wait to begin the Fall Season race.Anyways just want to know what camber should i put on the car?? my suspension is pretty stiff and i run CS-22 all around and i race on carpet!!

Front 30 LBS and have a 4degree caster block
Rear 20 LBS

i heard that whit stiff suspensioni will need less camber!! so i was thinking about 1 degree of camber all aroud???

What guys thinking??

Later!!
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Old 08-14-2005, 07:59 PM   #3028
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I see you guys are making aftermarket bushings for the aluminum steering blocks. Are you guys having trouble with the durability of the bearings as well? Mine are pretty much destroyed, though I think it may has as much to do with loctite getting down in there as anything else. I tried really hard to keep that from happening.

I noticed a lot of people are using the plastic steering arms still. What's the motivation for this? I'm trying to decide if I should use bushings, or just go back to plastic entirely.
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Old 08-14-2005, 08:03 PM   #3029
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in my sterring block i destroyed 2 bearing so i will buy the bushing for sure it have more long life and chrome looks better than plastic hehe!!

Later!!
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Old 08-14-2005, 08:36 PM   #3030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
I noticed a lot of people are using the plastic steering arms still. What's the motivation for this? I'm trying to decide if I should use bushings, or just go back to plastic entirely.

I use the plastic hubs just b/c they feel like they have less slop. When i had the aluminum hubs on, it just felt like the front end had too much play....hope this helps
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