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Old 06-09-2005, 10:35 AM   #2416
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yup.... that is a Yoke saver. it also came in the SD-CG Drift car, as well as probably most of the SD kits.

i used the Tamiya H-D saver... its black, and just about the perfect size, as well.
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Old 06-09-2005, 10:52 AM   #2417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danjoy25
Looks like Corallys being listen to my request.

MIP CVD Bones are now available in steel (COR79182-ST)
Is there pricing on this one yet?
You found out faster than us. We will have to check on pricing.

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Old 06-09-2005, 10:56 AM   #2418
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I would assume the price for steel bones would be cheaper, right?


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Old 06-09-2005, 04:59 PM   #2419
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I would hope so, Now the next wish would be having the steel caps fit the steel bones
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Old 06-09-2005, 06:35 PM   #2420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbonium
yup.... that is a Yoke saver. it also came in the SD-CG Drift car, as well as probably most of the SD kits.

i used the Tamiya H-D saver... its black, and just about the perfect size, as well.
You said it came with the drift kits but they did not come with the other SD kits. I've had them or still got them. The only other kit they come with is the most recent release of the LCG Conversion kit. -JB
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Old 06-09-2005, 06:37 PM   #2421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koabich
Nice shot. From looking at the picture, I can tell you haven't run the car yet. You may want to make the proper changes to the front sway bar so that it will not interfear with the steering.

Move the sway bar mounts, as they attach to the A-Arms, so they are on the other side of the dogbone, they will no longer interfear with the steering now. Some use the rear sway bar to make up for the extra distance but I just used the front sway bar and moved it forward in the mount that holds it to the top deck. Works perfectly!
Thanx for the correction, I'm working to fix it now -JB
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Old 06-09-2005, 08:38 PM   #2422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danjoy25
I would hope so, Now the next wish would be having the steel caps fit the steel bones
Give CorallyUSA some time....... I'm sure they will take care of it.

Jeff
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Old 06-09-2005, 10:38 PM   #2423
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Unhappy

Just busted the rear body mount and 'ever-so-slightly' bent the left-frt CVD(and as a result, the wheel doesn't spin as free) in a little driveway/street action They should really make the rear bodymount in a way that can handle four somersaults and a slam against the curb . DAMN ROCK. Oh well, spares are on order
Questions:
How much play should the spur assembly have on the layshaft? How about side-to-side play on the front pulley? My pulley on the rear diff wiggles a little from side-to-side, Normal? I built this car just as careful as I did all my others, maybe I need to break it down and rebuild? Are the new CVD's w/steel blades available yet? What about shimming the frt./rear hingepins, is it suggested? Anything in particular (quirks) I should be looking for on this ride?
Bear with me guys, after running a few packs through the car, I can see how easily you can become 'fanatical' about this jewel. I just wanna make sure I stay on top of this one. Love the amount of steering out of the box BTW
I'M OUT -JB
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Old 06-10-2005, 12:17 AM   #2424
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After running the car for close to 5 months now, only ever concern I have was the alloy CVD bones and plastic caps were to soft for my liking. The steel versions due out is just the thing I m looking for. I have about .5 mm side play on mine with no probs.
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Old 06-10-2005, 02:34 PM   #2425
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greetings,

I received my RDX today. I was wondering if anyone can answer a few questions for me:

1. When applying glue to the chassis perimeter, should the counter sunk screw holes on the bottom of the chassis also be glued?

2. What type of glue is prefered when gluing the chassis.

3. Any particular prep and proceedures when glueing the Chassis?

4. When are the steel CVD's and blades going to be available? Any part # yet?

Thanx to everyone for their support.
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Old 06-10-2005, 03:21 PM   #2426
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I sanded the edges with fine sand paper, almost rounding the corner, washed all the dust then glued it with super glue.
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Old 06-10-2005, 03:43 PM   #2427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obsidian
greetings,

I received my RDX today. I was wondering if anyone can answer a few questions for me:

1. When applying glue to the chassis perimeter, should the counter sunk screw holes on the bottom of the chassis also be glued?

2. What type of glue is prefered when gluing the chassis.

3. Any particular prep and proceedures when glueing the Chassis?

4. When are the steel CVD's and blades going to be available? Any part # yet?

Thanx to everyone for their support.
Steel CVD's are on order from Holland. Should have them within 2 weeks but we will still have to have them machined.

Steel Blades are currently available along with aluminum bones. The bones retail for $35 and the Steel Blades retail for $20.
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Old 06-10-2005, 11:14 PM   #2428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CorallyUSA
Steel Blades are currently available along with aluminum bones. The bones retail for $35 and the Steel Blades retail for $20.
Part #'s
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Old 06-10-2005, 11:16 PM   #2429
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Don't glue the countersunk area for the screws otherwise the screw heads will not sit flush with the bottom of the chassis.

Personally, I have never glued the edges of any C/F chassis I have had. I have never once had a problem with it delaminating or getting damaged and wreck as bad as anyone!!
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Old 06-10-2005, 11:50 PM   #2430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
Questions:
How much play should the spur assembly have on the layshaft? How about side-to-side play on the front pulley? My pulley on the rear diff wiggles a little from side-to-side, Normal? I built this car just as careful as I did all my others, maybe I need to break it down and rebuild? Are the new CVD's w/steel blades available yet? What about shimming the frt./rear hingepins, is it suggested? Anything in particular (quirks) I should be looking for on this ride?

I'M OUT -JB
Anyone else? -JB
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