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Old 06-08-2005, 10:36 AM   #2401
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I believe in flex .. I think with the flex of the chassis you could take faster corners than one thats stiff and just rely on susp.
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Old 06-08-2005, 10:51 AM   #2402
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OK , this is coming from first hand experience i ran the stock chassis at SOCAL RACEWAY , were they have a banked track the chassis would roll and lift the inside tire and spin out coming off the banking..its a recuring problem for so cal racers..tosolini and i changed the chassis between rounds didnt change anything else the car was BOMB ..Now you tell me WHAT CHASSIS is doing to NOT make traction, its not about making traction anymore its about making sure the shocks are doing there job ,,,DUDE its 4 wheel drive how much more traction due you need...the clock dont lie...average lap times befor 11.0 w/ 3.9 chassis low 10s and thats what im talking about...you should do your own testing and dont rely on what others THINK ....it works every were indoor / outside in the dirtiest parking lots... my 2 cents ...charlie albrecht
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Old 06-08-2005, 12:48 PM   #2403
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Depends how much traction the track has. SoCal from what I understand has a lot of traction. So I would be inclined to run stiffer, like Charlie did.

Then again...... Hara likes a 2.0mm chassis and topdeck. I'm sure he has done a lot of testing.

I tested a lot for the Reedy Race and the more flex the car had, the better it felt. This was with modified. But, like I said......... just depends on how much traction your local track has.

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Old 06-08-2005, 01:07 PM   #2404
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yes sir we are both right, socal has a different kind of traction its constant but dirty at times..as for out side the tamiya track did not have the traction like last year they only soaked the track on the wensday befor the RROC.this year the traction was low to me , but tires were better for sure ...HARA ran a different type of CF chassis thats why it was 2.0 mm not the typical CF that we are used too...hey jeff anything new at TEAM CORALLY USA?...WORD.. PS.... if it feels better it might not be faster , you cant get any more consistant than a stiff chassis...my 2 cents

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Old 06-08-2005, 01:41 PM   #2405
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Charlie.....

I definately prefer as stiff as of a chassis as I can. I tested with 2 cars, same setups. I didn't go any slower with the thinner one and more flex. Car seemed easier. In the end..... it is a personal preference.

New? Not much. Just released the steel blades but you should have those. Send us your setup sheet for the website.

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Old 06-08-2005, 03:09 PM   #2406
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[QUOTE=CorallyUSA]Hey Jeff....... get your own avatar. j/k


Its kinda mine tho its got my name in it. tring to get get ready for this express race it should be a really good race. ill keep u guys posted
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Old 06-08-2005, 03:33 PM   #2407
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yo mr. brown you got a PM
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Old 06-08-2005, 08:03 PM   #2408
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Looks like Corallys being listen to my request.

MIP CVD Bones are now available in steel (COR79182-ST)
Is there pricing on this one yet?
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Old 06-08-2005, 11:19 PM   #2409
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Thumbs up Just wanted to say...

THANX for all of your wiring tips and pics guys . I put them into action & I hope I made the grade ... -JB
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Old 06-08-2005, 11:31 PM   #2410
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That looks alot better than mine. good to see you using a S9550 servo.
Might rewire mine again tonight
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Old 06-08-2005, 11:40 PM   #2411
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Dang, that looks good. Super clean lol.

-Korey
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Old 06-09-2005, 12:40 AM   #2412
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Jaybee,

What is the make of the servo saver? I have done in 2 9250s!
Thanks
Andy
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Old 06-09-2005, 06:22 AM   #2413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyuk99
Jaybee,

What is the make of the servo saver? I have done in 2 9250s!
Thanks
Andy
I'm afraid buddy that that servo saver is out of the Yokomo LCG Conversion kit .
Korey-danjoy, Thanx. This is my 4th or 5th kit and I'm getting ALOT better at wiring them up. -JB
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Old 06-09-2005, 07:15 AM   #2414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
THANX for all of your wiring tips and pics guys . I put them into action & I hope I made the grade ... -JB
Nice shot. From looking at the picture, I can tell you haven't run the car yet. You may want to make the proper changes to the front sway bar so that it will not interfear with the steering.

Move the sway bar mounts, as they attach to the A-Arms, so they are on the other side of the dogbone, they will no longer interfear with the steering now. Some use the rear sway bar to make up for the extra distance but I just used the front sway bar and moved it forward in the mount that holds it to the top deck. Works perfectly!
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Old 06-09-2005, 09:38 AM   #2415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
THANX for all of your wiring tips and pics guys . I put them into action & I hope I made the grade ... -JB

What type of servo saver is that?
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