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Old 06-03-2005, 11:21 AM   #2326
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See, I hadn't gotten to my shocks yet, so eventhough I was very suspicious, I was going to let him go. Air filled shocks work, just not very well!

Gotta watch those pre-built parts!

I was also under the impression that rebound is good, as long as you tune for the same rebound on all shocks.
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Old 06-03-2005, 01:12 PM   #2327
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I was always under the impression that you wanted rebound too. When I built the Corally shocks for the first time, I kept rebuilding them trying to get rebound...needless to say I never was able to get them to rebound so i left them as they were.
I feel much better knowing that the shocks are not supposed to have rebound.
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Old 06-03-2005, 04:25 PM   #2328
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Default shocks

Here in Europe every body is building there shocks with a little bit of rebound.
it gifs your car more respons. When the grip is verry low I build my shocks with less rebound this gifs a litle more grip, but your car reacts slower. And doesn't take bumps that wel.

Just what I think of it...
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Old 06-03-2005, 08:17 PM   #2329
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Fugitabowdit, I'm putting oil in the shocks -JB
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Old 06-03-2005, 08:45 PM   #2330
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Another question... are you guys using the Torx screws, I have a set of Ti-screws for the car but don't know if I should break 'em out? -JB
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Old 06-03-2005, 08:51 PM   #2331
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I'm still using the torx. By design they are superior, they are less likely to strip, and the tools will have better grip in the screws. The included torx driver actually works very well. Its a size t-10.

-Korey
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Old 06-03-2005, 08:59 PM   #2332
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Good lookin' out Sushi, I can always expect an answer from you dood -JB
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Old 06-04-2005, 12:53 AM   #2333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sushi Boy
I'm still using the torx. By design they are superior, they are less likely to strip, and the tools will have better grip in the screws. The included torx driver actually works very well. Its a size t-10.

-Korey
Yep

I'm working on a low to medium bite rubber/carpet setup, and once I feel that it is "dialed", I'll post it. I got the car very good this past tuesday, and for my first time on rubber tires in well over a year, I felt good about how it went.

TTT
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Old 06-04-2005, 04:11 AM   #2334
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Default Rubbers on Smooth Asphalt track setup needed.

Needing setup tips for Sorex 36R with C-Med insert using front one-way diff for a smooth asphalt track. Thanks in advance
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Old 06-04-2005, 06:45 AM   #2335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geforcy
what is wrong with rebound? if the shock does do that, its fine it needs about 3mm rebound...
I second that....
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Old 06-04-2005, 08:20 AM   #2336
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kansasracer- Email me that setup!
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Old 06-04-2005, 09:24 AM   #2337
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To you guys that have been running the car for a while - have you seen a need for any thread lock anywhere?
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Old 06-04-2005, 09:36 AM   #2338
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Incase anyone is interested, I've posted a gallery from the Reedy Race that include a few of the factory drivers cars from Corally.

http://www.pdubracing.com/photo_gallery.htm
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Old 06-04-2005, 01:26 PM   #2339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbous
To you guys that have been running the car for a while - have you seen a need for any thread lock anywhere?

Just to be safe I use BLUE Loctite on all screws that went in to metal.
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Old 06-04-2005, 04:55 PM   #2340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sushi Boy
I'm still using the torx. By design they are superior, they are less likely to strip, and the tools will have better grip in the screws. The included torx driver actually works very well. Its a size t-10.

-Korey
The torx are great in that you should never strip one out, however, if you use some 2.0mm flat heads in the RC blocks, you can use a ball end wrench and get to them WITHOUT removing the bulkheads, which is nice. I also use them for the front CF bumper piece, so I can easily remove them with the nuts for the camber link in the way.
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