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Old 05-27-2005, 02:12 PM   #2236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoSi xXx S
does anyone know how to take out a bearing outer cover thats stuck on my rear hub ??? ive tried everything but it wont come out or anything..
Do you need to get the bearing out of the hub or the shield off of the bearing?

If it the shield take an xacto or any sharp small tipped blade and look real close at the outer edge of the bearing you will see a small edge of the clip that holds the shield in. Take the blade and press down slightly and wedge the blade behind the ring and pull it out. Then use the blade to lift the shield. If done correctly you should be able to reuse both the shield and clip.

Hope this helps.
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Old 05-27-2005, 02:17 PM   #2237
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no no i know how to do that but im not talking about that ... I didnt know i have a blown bearing after i heard squeeking and i took the hex off and the bearing fell apart but the outer cage is still stuck in the rear hub and i cant take it out
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Old 05-27-2005, 02:30 PM   #2238
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Originally Posted by LoSi xXx S
no no i know how to do that but im not talking about that ... I didnt know i have a blown bearing after i heard squeeking and i took the hex off and the bearing fell apart but the outer cage is still stuck in the rear hub and i cant take it out
Alright try this. Take the hub off, remove the other bearing, axle and cvd. Spray it with ALOT of Liquid wrench or WD-40. Very carefully with something that is round and the SAME size as the outer race, Wheel wrench or nut driver or even a punch if you have one that is big enough to fit inside the race. Tap the wrench or whichever you can find to fit, EASY keep it well lubed with Liqiud wrench or wd-40. Just keep tapping until it comes out. If you use the punch you can try spinning it once it fits snug in the race while tapping it.

Hope this will work.
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Old 05-27-2005, 05:26 PM   #2239
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Greetings All,

I am buying a RDX this weekend and was wondering if there are any special assembly tricks or mods that anyone/everyone is doing. The car looks trick and I can't wait to test drive it.

Also, are there any option part or spare parts I should buy from the get go.

Cheerz
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Old 05-27-2005, 05:33 PM   #2240
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Hello again all,

I was also curious if the kit chassis accept the new IB3800 cells, or all cell on the market.
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Old 05-27-2005, 05:38 PM   #2241
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Try to getting the following:

Must spares:
Lower suspension arms and servo saver

Options:
Alloy steering knuckles
1.3mm pistons
toe spacers

Good to have the Black and Silver spring set

Tools:
7mm Nut driver & .5 mm hex driver

Not sure about the 3800 but the 370o will fit the new kits, best to check.

Enjoy the build
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Old 05-27-2005, 07:37 PM   #2242
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I ordered the RDX (UK kit) along with the .5 & 1.0* spacers, 2 sets of the #791074 arms, Ti-screw kit (from Speedtechrc), 2 sets of the #79280 steering blocks, #79161 diff rebuild kit, and the #79230 black shock spring set.
danjoy25- I wish you would've chimed in sooner, I would've gotten the silver spring set too ... it's all good. Now I know -JB
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Old 05-27-2005, 08:34 PM   #2243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obsidian
Hello again all,

I was also curious if the kit chassis accept the new IB3800 cells, or all cell on the market.
Yes, the RDX chassis are designed for the GP 3700, IB3800 cells. They also fit the 3300's 3000's as well!
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Old 05-28-2005, 08:24 AM   #2244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danjoy25
Cookie,

Do you have any pics of that or a link where I can check it out.
The only piccie I found was on the Latest News page on corally.com (and on corallyusa.com) in the 2005 Product Update section there's a picture of the flyer, but it's only outside the case not inside, but it's really cool, so you'll just have to get one anyway!! ;-)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon Melton
1 correction, it holds four armatures.
Yes! You're right, in all my excitement I appear to have lost the ability to count! hahaha



The Assassin pulleys are the same on the RDX, so I'm not sure where the larger diameter pulley thing came from!
The RDX has a new rear lightweight diff (About ~21g compared to ~32g) but it has the same size pulley (42 tooth - the small centre pulleys are 21 tooth)

The old Direct Drive Assassin had an extremely efficient drive train - could only be used in direct drive for stock as the ratios for mod were not possible - but I definitely agree with Pizza Dude in that the overall better design and handling etc of the RDX, I reckon far outweighs any advantage the direct drive has.
If Direct Drive and Stock racing sounds like the perfect combination for you then the more recently released Pro-Stock Assassin is the money ticket!
(#00164, #00165)

Quote:
Originally Posted by PizzaDude
Especially for mod the RDX is AWESOME.
Couldn't put it any better myself!
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Old 05-28-2005, 08:38 AM   #2245
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.....oh also I just got a new RDX kit **happiness**!!

It is so cool, still can't believe how good this car builds and looks! haha

There seem to be quite a few subtle little changes since I built my first RDX kit when it was released.

The chassis and battery brace is now the updated version to cater for the 3700Mah batts etc and the droop tabs are enlarged and there are more and rearranged lead ballast slots.

I also noticed a number of the parts had been refined so they fit a fraction better, e.g. the toe spacers and the layshaft to note a couple!

**Praying for no rain tomorrow to test new toy!!!
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Old 05-29-2005, 09:24 AM   #2246
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I'm thinking about picking up the thick chassis and top deck and practicing on the carpet all summer while the rest of the guys fight traction outside on the asphalt. Will I need to upgrade my battery strap as well? I've got the original one, without the "RDX" logo.
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Old 05-29-2005, 10:00 AM   #2247
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you will more than likely need the strap. i think all the new lowers are made to accept the new larger cells (ala 3700s), making the longer strap necessary.

i just got the 2.4 asphalt chassis couple weeks ago, and it needed the longer one as well...
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Old 05-29-2005, 11:42 PM   #2248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbonium
you will more than likely need the strap. i think all the new lowers are made to accept the new larger cells (ala 3700s), making the longer strap necessary.

i just got the 2.4 asphalt chassis couple weeks ago, and it needed the longer one as well...
Yes correct, the new chassis actually ahs the battery strap posts further apart - hence the new 'RDX' cutout strap is required.
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Old 05-30-2005, 12:08 AM   #2249
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Okay, so to get switched to the chassis for carpet, I need:

COR79357: 3.4mm RDX Graphite Topdeck
SRC100: 3.9mm RDX Milled Graphite Chassis
???????: "RDX" Battery Strap.

Anybody know the part number for the battery strap? Do I need anything else to make the chassis conversion painless?
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Old 05-30-2005, 12:44 AM   #2250
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Just run what you have. Only time I will convert is when i switch to 3700 or 3800 packs.
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