BIGDAN

Im interested in getting one of these two cars can you guys tell me a little on each one pros and cons.

hotrodchevy14

iTrader: (115)

not sure how it is in your area..but the tc6.1 should have better parts support. Check with your lhs and if thats the way it is go with the 6.1

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

both good.
I have owned both...
still own the CX....and now a CXL
parts a bit pricier for the Schu....if you're in the states your LHS will be able to get the parts you will have to get from Amain or Stormer hobbies.
elsewhere there is usually a dist.

-CX & CXL is pretty much bullet proof. very rarely breaks if anything at all.
-TC6.1 is a little less durable but still pretty darn good...CHUBs are the biggest problem must put the old ones on.

You can't go wrong either way.

BIGDAN

So the chubs on the Mi4 or the Tc6.1 are the week point.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

I've owned two Mi4LP's for 2+ years, and I owned a TC6.1 for about 4 months.

The TC6.1 didn't go together quite as clean as the Mi4LPs, but it did go together and drive well. The reason I sold it is because it wasn't working any better for me than the Mi4LP, and there was more demand and I could get more for it, and hadn't invested much in parts.

Things the TC6.1 offers over the Mi4 line:
- Easy roll center adjustment out of the box. This is an expensive, heavy, PITA option on the Mi4 series.
- Cheap parts that your LHS probably stocks
- Tons of setup advice
- Lighter weight than the Mi4LP, not sure if it's lighter than a CX or CXL.
- Awesome gear diff
- Better battery retention with forward/backward option (the CXL offers two battery positions)
- Better servo mounting
- Way, way more aftermarket support.

The TC6.1 was strong and drove well. The only thing I broke was 1 C-Hub, and only after a lot of gnarly crashing.

Things that didn't impress me with the TC6.1:
- Shocks: I like the screw-retained piston, but that's it. They're black which makes it really hard to see bubbles. I couldn't get them to seal consistently. The RSD bladders are a borderline required option. The upper spring seats are too loose. And I couldn't get even stiction between all 4 shocks, and never figured out why.
- Springs: Inconsistent length. HPI and Spec-R don't fit the retainers well. RSD are nice, but you have to pay more.
- Screws: the m3x5 countersunk kit screws are crap, but ProTek replacements are pretty cheap.


Things the Mi4CX line offers over the TC6.1:
- Great build quality
- Motor mount clamp for left/right balance
- Much nicer shocks. Think TRF quality.

Things that don't impress me with the Mi4 line:
- Springs: Inconsistent length. Aftermarket ones fit well, though.
- Weight: It can be challenging to get the LP down to 1380, but I think the CX and CXL are better in that respect.
- Lack of setup help. Nobody runs 'em in my area. Although Hofer's geometry does seem to work.


If you're really interested in Schumacher, I'd highly recommended looking at the CXL from www.stormerhobbies.com. It's enough improved over the CX to justify the extra $120 over amain's price on the CX.

If I were starting from scratch, though, I'd probably go with the TC6.1, especially if you can find a used one at a good price. The reasons being kit price, parts prices and availability, setup help, weight, and aftermarket support.

-Mike

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

the Associated Chubs 6.1 are pretty much junk, huge air bubbles in the plastic they crumble like a 2week old cookie.

everyone that i've know changes to the TC5 chubs (old Style).

Mi4 CX chubs are bullet proof...
and yes making weight is not a factor with either the CX or the CXl.
-the motor mount is freakin fantastic so easy to change motors set pinion mesh..etc. so easy to balance the car. without a huge amount of extra weights.
(any other old variation of the Mi4 are very heavy...lots'o metal.
-the adjustability of the car is endless...everything is pretty much done with shims.
-very little tuning parts needed - top deck options and hinge pin options...that is pretty much it.
-shocks - agree with GripGoat....TRF quality...just but in a thicker Oring and thats it. Butter smooth. I rebuilt them once in 2 months. I am not a fan of the associated shocks but if built correctly they are smooth.


choose either one...at the end of the day...it's about having fun.and if it makes it easier to decide.
the Schuie is pretty darn easy on the eyes.
setups well...you may not get track help but online there is more than enough to work with.
i've been using the same setup for my CX and CXL.

again I've owned both..(actually 3 TC6, 2 Tc6.1 and I'm sticking with Schui).
way better in my opinion but that is my preference.

LasagnaCat

iTrader: (161)

Which was the given reason for spare parts being out of stock for so long. The hubs have supposedly been fixed, I have a couple new sets here but haven't had to use them yet. If you bought a new TC6 and replaced the hubs out of the box, that should help/solve the issue if the new parts are fixed.

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

Actually the part is not fixed...
the LHS received the latest batches of the Chubs for the TC6.1 via GP/towerhobbies last week.
same thing happened....poof up in pieces..
do yourself a favor and get the older TC5 Chubs..
save yourself the headache and let yourself finish a race heat.

MrUnlimited

Which one do you like the most YOURSELF? Other people cannot decide for you, it is up to you.

Geberit

Wonderful suggestions. What I reed from most of the advice is if you can drive you can go with a TC6.1 and if your a crasher take rather the Mi4.

I saw guys breake like every car from TC6, Mi4, BD-5, TRF-517, T3, Awesomatix … But also some horrible crashes with TC6 and nothing happened!?

The most people in this hobbi follow their heart and depth of their pockets.

Twism86

iTrader: (4)

How come Schumacher sells an assembled CXL? they are the only company ive seen do this. Would anyone actually recommend/get a pre-assembled TC?

Does the CXL have a gear diff or only the 6.1?

Nilks

First of all, how have they got a hold of a TRF-517? Prototype?

Every car out there can break. I have not yet seen a car not able to break down. And it is not rare to experience a hard crash, without anything breaking. And then some other time just barely touch the curb, and it breaks.

Of course some cars break down more often than others, and some seem more robust. Xray is typically considered to be a "tank", but I have still seen people break it in the weirdest ways.

Geberit

My mistake, your the man

JustWill75

The best way to stop breaking C-hubs is to,,,,,,,stop hitting things and drive the car. I'm tired of people talking about this. I'm not a pro but I am a Beast on my track with my TC6. Turn the wheel left or right and ocasionally hitting the brakes can save C-hubs.

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

haha..that is just soo funny....i think everone know not to hit anything ....point is MOOT...
the topic targeted...is bad quality plastic. for the CHUB...6.1 not the Tc6
if you're tired of people talking about...then take a nap.


too everyone...just any car you want to get.
at the end of day it's all about what you like. PERIOD.
can we kill this thread please.