Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Good MR4TC set-up >

Good MR4TC set-up

Good MR4TC set-up

Old 07-17-2004, 06:32 AM
Tech Master
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Blackwrench™'s Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Saitama, Sadamine Mountain Pass
Posts: 1,568
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default Good MR4TC set-up

Hey guys,
I just got this second hand MR4TC (belt driven). I'm not familiar with this chassis, and I'm wonderi'n if you guys could give me advice in setting this chassis. i can't find set-up sheets for this car in the net. and please consider availability of the parts.
Blackwrench™ is offline  
Old 07-17-2004, 06:50 AM
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
TryHard's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Posts: 5,375
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default MR4-TC setups

Hi Blackwrench I have a set-up for a TC here, although I have just raced t for the last time (new car arrives next week).

You can find it here


Note there are a few special bits in it

1) rear camber links. Instead of being mounted on the shock tower they are mounted on the bulkhead screws (pic here)
This changes the camber profile, and roll centre at the rear. I found it gives a slightly calmer rear end, but it may be best off if you just run it off the upper and inside most hole of the tower for now.

2) Belt tensioner bar. I ran this bar to loosen the rear belt a bit, seems to work ok, but it's not vital.

3) Roll bars. I always ran the roll bars, even if they are only the softest option, as I find that they make a car quite stable, and easyier to drive.

4) One ways. The setup has front and centre one-ways in it. However this probably isn't vital, and it should handle fairly well with diffs in, however you won't have a much steering (in fact this is an area I fell the TC lacks compared to mordern cars, it has very low amounts of steering.)

5) Springs. Quick tip, run one rate higher at the rear, or if desperate the same rate. Never run a softer one at the rear, it makes the car push like mad. The setup I have there, has Associated Copper springs. To get them to fit with the blue alu shockers you need to remove the adustable collar, and place the collar from the plastic one in it's place. Otherwise you have to cut the spring down (AE springs are longer than the Yoko ones).

6) Shock ends. Note that the front shocks are using the short end, not the kit std long one.

The setup is genreally for outdoor on smooth tarmac, however indoor on carpet, I've found that going blue (yoko) springs on the front, and yellow (yoko) on the rear is the only change i really need to make. I did experiment with disconecting the roll bars too, however I was a little undecided if it was any quicker. (I was using Pit D20 wets on the carpet)

If you have anymore questions about it don't hesitate to ask.

TryHard is offline  

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2022 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.