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Old 11-21-2010, 06:34 PM   #91
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man, i am running 2* toe out 30g of weight over the front and the battery moved all the way up front!! i think that i can get the power down with no problem, what are the softest know front tires for f1?
Check with www.rcmart.com or d-drivesportsenglish.com
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:36 PM   #92
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Why? What is not true about my statement? I well know it's impossible as I stated that in my post. I was merely trying to point out that he was being defensive for the wrong reason. NO ONE has EVER said his design has too much slop. They were saying that it only worked BECAUSE of slop. He is certainly entitled to be defensive about his design as he has been slammed by a few people on here pretty hard. But he keeps arguing the wrong point.

not to beat a dead horse but i will say this once again.......my link system is just like the f109. i think what you are saying is talking about the exotec/RC 10/12 style where the links are on the exact same pivot point as the center pivot, my setup and the f109 are not like that which you for some reason assume that it is. your point could only be valid IF my link was like the exotec style. do you understand my point now?
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:37 PM   #93
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If you are running the normal F104 front end, either add spacers under the rear ball of the upper arm, or use a shorter ball on the front of the upper arm. You will get more mid corner grip due to increased dynamic caster effect.

You may also need to try different servo savers to get the ackerman you want. Kimbrough medium is good. I have tried Tamiya and 3 sizes of Kimbrough, and the medium was best for me.
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:42 PM   #94
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nice suggestion! thank you, i will give it a try this week.

arahawk, how do you get 2.5* of camber with the 104 front??
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:43 PM   #95
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not to beat a dead horse but i will say this once again.......my link system is just like the f109. i think what you are saying is talking about the exotec/RC 10/12 style where the links are on the exact same pivot point as the center pivot, my setup and the f109 are not like that which you for some reason assume that it is. your point could only be valid IF my link was like the exotec style. do you understand my point now?
Again, I have made NO assumptions. I have said nothing about your car. All I am trying to do is guide you into the right line of defense. The people that are saying it wont work think location of the pivots on the link are wrong and that the only reason it works at all is because there is slop and flex in the links (as there are in ALL links), not that there is too much in yours, just that yours relies on it where some of the others don't (though some others DO as well).

As for me, I hope it does work, wins every race there is and wish you a great sales success.

Seriously I am not bashing you, just trying to help you understand where they are coming from so you can better describe your product.
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:48 PM   #96
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point taken, thank you
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Old 11-21-2010, 08:43 PM   #97
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nice suggestion! thank you, i will give it a try this week.

arahawk, how do you get 2.5* of camber with the 104 front??
Tamiya part number 54202.

It gives you the option of 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5.

Also I run lay-down low profile servo to rid of bump steer.
I think Inzane ran 45deg lay down servo ala some 12th scale style I think.

Now I run mostly 2.5 deg camber with 1deg toe in, makes the car very planted on the straight with 17.5t with turbo with very slight push. This set up is on tamiya hard front foams and soft rears.

I think will try robk's idea if can eliminate the push.
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Old 11-21-2010, 09:15 PM   #98
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MantisWorx do yourself a favor and don't let all these "armchair experts" make you upset, it's not worth it. Likely most of them have never designed and built their own rc car, yet they are quick to put down your ideas; and if you dare to get upset with their "negativity" and voice it, you are then made to look like a "hothead". Don't be goaded into it by them, they won't admit they could be wrong; they'll make you look like the bad guy. The best defense is to finish the car(s) and then race them!

When the Brabham and then the Lotus teams first came to Indy in the early '60s, the established American teams did not take them seriously and were convinced that their little rear engined cars wouldn't work at the Speedway and would be soundly trounced by their front engined Offy roadsters, and look who ended up having the last laugh!

Just go ahead and build your current car and then later your full independent suspension car and hopefully we at Enforcer RC will get ours done at some point, and then both will have a chance to prove our points of view. I refuse to be drawn in and try to explain the whole concept to people with narrow minds.

Now watch as I get "flamed" for being "politically incorrect" and calling them negative and narrow-minded.
Well said! Marcus go ahead and build the chassis, get it sorted out and then race them. Races are truely won on the track by good cars with good drivers, not on a web forum. I look foward to racing against your cars and let the racing decide the victors. I also wish to purchase one of your kits! Andy Wallace Alpha RC F-1 Cars
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Old 11-25-2010, 04:51 PM   #99
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Updates on the mantisworks???? Enforcerrc??? I have way too many cars...but you can never have enough.
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Old 11-25-2010, 06:43 PM   #100
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Is there any info on the alpha f1 cars on the net?
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Old 11-25-2010, 07:01 PM   #101
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production dimiensions are done, im having a hard time coming up with a sideshock that i like, i have a few coming in next week for testing. ive also come up with a cool little front piece that allows for adjustable camber and castor. front traction on rubbers is not where i want it, lot of high speed push due to the increased rear traction. between now and the new year i plan on going to dallas to do some carpet testing. i think someone in the Enforcer camp is having health issues which will probably set them back a little bit.
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Old 11-25-2010, 07:17 PM   #102
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Is there any info on the alpha f1 cars on the net?
Search for alphacat on this thread and send him a pm. One of the best for info on his or most any other F1.
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Old 11-25-2010, 07:30 PM   #103
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"im having a hard time coming up with a sideshock that i like,"

I understand. I wonder if the old Delta style is still available. It was small but it worked and many of them are still being used. I still have some from the old days and they are still holding the oil in them.

I hope enforcer can get things going. I know the guy with the health issues. He is a genius at car design and would test and fine tune for months to make sure the car was perfect before he would even say it was ready to drive. What I liked was that only a tire change was all it needed to go from carpet to asphalt and the car would drive the same no matter what. But it worked. I think your idea on the rear may offer similar results. But here is the key...testing testing testing. Then when you are give out test some more.
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Old 12-03-2010, 10:21 PM   #104
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Default Final pre production pix!

Well i have settled on a useable shock, i like the kyosho mini-z shock the best but they cost about 15.00 each! So i came across these and the lap times were the same. last night at our local race i was able to run a best time of 11.9 and the best time of the night in 17.5 turbo TC was 11.2, not bad for a track with no speed at all. my tire setup is Ride SS rears and fronts. It still has just a hair too much high speed push but i think this is what a bannana is going to drive like on asphalt This is the material that will be used and i think it looks great and unique. the only parts i am waiting on before i can start shipping out is the ball links and balls as well as the optional stand offs (104pro has four already). what you are seeing on the front is an adjustable caster and camber plate system! that i have also come up with, and let me tell you castor is the 104's friend!Not only that but now when you adjust camber you dont get the funky angles on the arms due to the rear pivot point being stationary. For now the kit will come with a 1* and 2* with 1.5 and 2.5 being optional. unfortunately i wont be able to mix and match them due to the way i have to machine them. I am going to personally pre assemble each and every chassis sold to make sure that the base setup is correct, this is ALOT of work for me but i feel that its the only way to make sure you have excellent results with your chassis kit.
Here are the features for those who havent read the entire thread:
Tri-shock grease damped, threaded coilover side shocks
Composite carbon main chassis(30% stiffer)
Silver graphite upper deck and shock mount
True link rear suspension with center ball pivot (fully adjustable)
Adjustable shock mount on the upper deck to control droop without having to add spacers inside the shock.
I have multiple holes on the upper deck and shock mount to allow for different types of sides shocks in the future.
So here is how this is going to work, I am going to open up pre sales in a few days( www.Mantisworx.com ) Those of you that pre-order will also get a free adjustable front end(35.00 value) AND a pair of stainless front suspension mount bolts!(5.00 value). Once pre-order status ends (somewhere around Jan 1 2011) the kit price will be 155.00 and only include the kit.
now the PRE-PRODUCTION pics:





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Old 12-03-2010, 10:55 PM   #105
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Dont know too much about F1 performance but since 12th scale pan cars seem similar wouldnt a tube damper be a nice concept to try?(dont haze me if Im being stupid...new to larger scale stuff)

i like the swap of mini-z to micro-t shocks...very econo.
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