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Old 11-14-2010, 10:45 AM   #16
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What do you clean the parts with? I put mine in brake cleaner, give them a good soak (half and hour), take them out, change the fluid and put them back in for a "rinse".
I replace my diff rings fairly regularly, but try to keep my thrust washers. The groove in the thrust washers is a good thing, for me it makes the diff feel more consistent.
As mentioned, I also only use a tiny amount of grease.
I get about 12 to 15 runs between rebuilds on my touring car, and that is with steel balls.
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Old 11-14-2010, 12:20 PM   #17
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What do you clean the parts with? I put mine in brake cleaner, give them a good soak (half and hour), take them out, change the fluid and put them back in for a "rinse".
I replace my diff rings fairly regularly, but try to keep my thrust washers. The groove in the thrust washers is a good thing, for me it makes the diff feel more consistent.
As mentioned, I also only use a tiny amount of grease.
I get about 12 to 15 runs between rebuilds on my touring car, and that is with steel balls.
Wow that's a lot of time between rebuilds. I take it you are running on carpet. I have never be quite sure if I am over-tightening my diffs? When I build them I tighten them up, "work" it back and forth, tighten, "work" it again until I can't turn one outdrive while holding the pulley and the other out-drive. I consider this medium-tight and adjust from there about a maximum of 1 1/4 turn each way to loosen or tighten. Does this sound about right?
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Old 11-14-2010, 12:31 PM   #18
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are you talking about this stuff?

personally I have only used AE white grease so far.
Yes
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Old 11-14-2010, 03:10 PM   #19
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Now I dont know if your able to get the sillicon grease where you are but its made by molytec...... Its a metal and plastic lube that works up to 200* c and I put a promise out that will be the best you will ever use.... Ceramic balls are the go yes but if your using steel balls or whatever in your diff this stuff is unreal... You can run your diff to the point its that loose and still will never slip. Setting your diff is so true and consistent its amazing.
this one? http://www.molytec.com.au/HTML%20files/NAME/N_M813.htm
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Old 11-14-2010, 03:45 PM   #20
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Wow that's a lot of time between rebuilds. I take it you are running on carpet. I have never be quite sure if I am over-tightening my diffs? When I build them I tighten them up, "work" it back and forth, tighten, "work" it again until I can't turn one outdrive while holding the pulley and the other out-drive. I consider this medium-tight and adjust from there about a maximum of 1 1/4 turn each way to loosen or tighten. Does this sound about right?
I think you may be over-tightening. If you JUST get to the point you can't turn the wheel with the method you have, that's usually tight enough. From there it's usually only 1/4 turn each way to adjust, no more.
If you over-tighten you WILL get dents on the diff or thrust rings, which can't be easily repaired.
I run on asphalt, outdoor, but after every run I give the diff a good blast with the air compressor, while on the car. Keeps it pretty clean. If it's VERY dusty I may only get 8 to 10 runs. I rebuilt it after 5 runs at our last big meet, and it was still clean inside and working fine (I was just paranoid).
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Old 11-14-2010, 05:08 PM   #21
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Yes mate that is it..... The best sillicon lube you will ever use..
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Old 11-15-2010, 05:23 AM   #22
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Wow!

You guys are rebuilding your diffs way more than I do. With ceramic balls, I only need to do it once or twice a race season and thats racing every weekend and practicing 4 hours a week. My diffs are silky smooth too.

I use those Tamiya stick on diff seals to keep the crud out. They are made for the TRF 501 but they work fine on my TA-05 v2 and really keep things clean.

I think that if I had to rebuild my diff as often as you guys are doing it, I'd look into running a gear diff.
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Old 11-15-2010, 07:16 AM   #23
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Wow!

You guys are rebuilding your diffs way more than I do. With ceramic balls, I only need to do it once or twice a race season and thats racing every weekend and practicing 4 hours a week. My diffs are silky smooth too.

I use those Tamiya stick on diff seals to keep the crud out. They are made for the TRF 501 but they work fine on my TA-05 v2 and really keep things clean.

I think that if I had to rebuild my diff as often as you guys are doing it, I'd look into running a gear diff.
Yeah depends what surface you run on aswell tho... But ceramics are the go I wont say they arent.... But you must have a good setup with keeping dirt out as I know some cars have the dirt seal or a seal setup to keep the dirt out and the grease in.... Tho my tc5r and tc6 dont have the seal idea so rebuilding them is a little bit of time and it doesnt cost me anything but a little grease... I never have to replace plates or balls or anything if I rebuild it all the time....
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Old 11-15-2010, 11:07 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by JR007 View Post
I think you may be over-tightening. If you JUST get to the point you can't turn the wheel with the method you have, that's usually tight enough. From there it's usually only 1/4 turn each way to adjust, no more.
If you over-tighten you WILL get dents on the diff or thrust rings, which can't be easily repaired.
I run on asphalt, outdoor, but after every run I give the diff a good blast with the air compressor, while on the car. Keeps it pretty clean. If it's VERY dusty I may only get 8 to 10 runs. I rebuilt it after 5 runs at our last big meet, and it was still clean inside and working fine (I was just paranoid).
The JRX-S R's diffs are like a little vacuum and I run on a dusty track so they need a rebuild every track day, but I love building so that's cool with me.
Thanks JR007 for the heads up, I have always been worried about running them too loose. My post was not so clear, I meant one 1/4 turn each way, not 1 & 1/4 turn. I just rebuilt mine, sanded the diff rings with 1500 grit!! and they are so smooth, better than brand new Also I used AE black in the front diff so I would have a "thicker" diff without it actually being tighter. My rear I used regular losi. Can't wait to see how this works tomorrow night

I remember seeing a trick diff ring holder for sanding them, anyone know who makes them?? Lost some fingerprints today sanding mine.
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Last edited by BrodieMan; 11-15-2010 at 11:19 AM.
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Old 11-15-2010, 11:52 AM   #25
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So far the best diff lube I've used is the Schumacher stuff. I think the clear with red label Team Associated silicone lube is pretty good too though.

I wait until mine starts to feel a bit gritty before rebuilding usually. Sometimes that is after one day, sometimes weeks.
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Old 11-15-2010, 12:43 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by BrodieMan View Post
The JRX-S R's diffs are like a little vacuum and I run on a dusty track so they need a rebuild every track day, but I love building so that's cool with me.
Thanks JR007 for the heads up, I have always been worried about running them too loose. My post was not so clear, I meant one 1/4 turn each way, not 1 & 1/4 turn. I just rebuilt mine, sanded the diff rings with 1500 grit!! and they are so smooth, better than brand new Also I used AE black in the front diff so I would have a "thicker" diff without it actually being tighter. My rear I used regular losi. Can't wait to see how this works tomorrow night

I remember seeing a trick diff ring holder for sanding them, anyone know who makes them?? Lost some fingerprints today sanding mine.
I believe that Tamiya makes one but it's going to be expensive. I just use an old outdrive.
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Old 11-15-2010, 12:57 PM   #27
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I believe that Tamiya makes one but it's going to be expensive. I just use an old outdrive.
They are made by muchmore (called the diff master), tho an old outdrive works just as well, as you mentioned
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:47 PM   #28
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Don't you just hate when such a simple idea alludes you. I lost a lot of fingerprints for nothing
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:59 PM   #29
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Great diffs......Muchmore
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Old 11-15-2010, 08:36 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by BrodieMan View Post
The JRX-S R's diffs are like a little vacuum and I run on a dusty track so they need a rebuild every track day, but I love building so that's cool with me.
Thanks JR007 for the heads up, I have always been worried about running them too loose. My post was not so clear, I meant one 1/4 turn each way, not 1 & 1/4 turn. I just rebuilt mine, sanded the diff rings with 1500 grit!! and they are so smooth, better than brand new Also I used AE black in the front diff so I would have a "thicker" diff without it actually being tighter. My rear I used regular losi. Can't wait to see how this works tomorrow night

I remember seeing a trick diff ring holder for sanding them, anyone know who makes them?? Lost some fingerprints today sanding mine.
Just use a pink eraser.. Works like a charm
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