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Old 02-20-2011, 08:51 AM   #46
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I believe that the shipping charges are all by UPS, which is very costly. Our on-line store (maintained by Shopatron) is not very flexible; we cannot change prices easily. Distributed items, listed in the store, are generally filled by our dealer network around the country and these dealers need to charge these higher prices to cover their shipping & handling costs for non-domestic shipments.

Post office shipments are not trackable---a real dilemma for shippers, who must then replace the items at no charge. We do, on occasion, ship product ordered from us directly---not through our store-front---and we can ship these by USPS. We have recently added Paypal for these limited transactions, primarily for our Trade/Legacy programs. We do have a network of International Distributors in many countries, who sell and service Novak Products in their markets.

We are in the process of a complete Web-Site and Store re-design; when complete this new store will allow much more flexibility in payment and shipping methods than the independent Shopatron interface.



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Originally Posted by JR007 View Post
NovakTwo, have you guys ever sold anything overseas on your programme? The shiiping rates are insane!
I was thinking of upgradingmy sons GTB, but it will cost more than a new one by the time I get it shipped. I wouldn't mind waiting 2 weeks for it if it meant I would be saving $50!
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Old 02-20-2011, 08:57 AM   #47
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I heart my GTB2.
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Old 03-05-2011, 09:27 PM   #48
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My GTB2 is a dud!
I just wired up my GTB2 into my VTA car with a 21.5 SS and on any throttle position other than "creep" the motor pulses. Most noticably at lower speeds and a bit less at each progresive "step". I double checked all my wiring and ran the hall sensor test and everything appears to check out fine. I even tested it on 13.5 and 17.5 with the same results. I guess I'll take one more close look at it before I have to send it back and put the old Havok back in. I was just so excited that I could finally run two classes this week, but it's not looking so good anymore.
This is my first less than perfect Novak piece out of 4 ESCs and 6 motors.
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Old 03-06-2011, 08:46 AM   #49
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Many times the problem you are experiencing will have an easy fix and you will not need to return your product for service. Unless you include the info below, we may not be able to assist you by email. Please email [email protected] with your question, Our regular CS/Tech Support hours can be located here. Before emailing, take a moment to review the instructions (trouble-shooting guide) originally included with your Novak Item:

Novak Instruction Downloads

Quote:
Please make your initial email as detailed as possible. Include:

~ speed control (brand/model)
~ motor (brand/wind)
~ number/type of cells
~ battery, brand (c rating/capacity
~ rotor (old/new)
~ connectors used
~ servo (brand/model)
~ radio system (receiver/transmitter)
~ vehicle & gearing
~ warranty claim? Include serial numbers
~ lipo cut-off, on/off
~ any external modules (BEC/brand, Glitch Buster)
~ other important info: water damage, corrosive chemical sprays, excess heat, etc
The more information you provide in your first email, the more quickly tech support can offer you assistance; without this information, diagnosing your problem is practically impossible. You can PM me if you want additional assistance.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cwazyduck View Post
My GTB2 is a dud!
I just wired up my GTB2 into my VTA car with a 21.5 SS and on any throttle position other than "creep" the motor pulses. Most noticably at lower speeds and a bit less at each progresive "step". I double checked all my wiring and ran the hall sensor test and everything appears to check out fine. I even tested it on 13.5 and 17.5 with the same results. I guess I'll take one more close look at it before I have to send it back and put the old Havok back in. I was just so excited that I could finally run two classes this week, but it's not looking so good anymore.
This is my first less than perfect Novak piece out of 4 ESCs and 6 motors.
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Old 03-09-2011, 10:15 AM   #50
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Product information for GTB2/Ballistic 540 combos:

GTB 2 Sportsman / Ballistic 540 Brushless Systems are available in two motor turns: 13.5 (#3090) and 17.5 (#3091)
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Old 03-09-2011, 10:51 AM   #51
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what is the best driver frequency for VTA?

I had left it on stock setting for my first race and it was good but I could use alittle more for Ed
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:08 AM   #52
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Thumbs up Good stuff...

Been running my GTB2 for a handfull of weekends now under some strenuous conditions/hard practice sessions... it just keeps going and going.. im liking it better than the original GTB without a doubt.. seems to hold its own against the other 'spec' units out there as well..

straight out the box
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Old 05-23-2011, 03:35 PM   #53
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Quote:
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Can anyone comment on the braking between the GTB 2 and older escs?
I went with the GTB2 and love it. This is my first "fancy" esc and found the setup to be a breeze. The braking is amazing; I need to dial it back its so powerful. Great product, runs incredibly cool and includes a high quality fan - there goes the price advantage of lesser ESCs.

/reviewrant
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Old 05-24-2011, 10:39 AM   #54
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We have added an additional low-profile version of our GTB2. This esc has a motor limit of 8.5T and is easier to install in tight spaces.

GTB 2 Sportsman ESC - Low Profile Heat Sink
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Old 07-02-2011, 02:56 AM   #55
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Default Problems with gtb2

Hello evryone this is my first time here. I had recently purchased a novak gtb2 and after half a run the car was slowing down so i thought it would be the voltage cut off system so i changed battery and when i turned the car back on it wouldnt move. The leds would be on normaly but if i continued pressing the trigger the leds that indicate rotor lock of the motor would start blinking. The motor turns freely thought and it can start if you give a push to the car and then runs normaly. Steering works and everything else is fine and i didnt exceed the voltzge (2s lipo) etc. I have tried different motor receiver battery sensor wire EVERYTHING besides the esc because i dont have one. I think its the esc that causes the problem. I have contacted novak and they were very polite but i cant afford to send it back ( i live in Greece) since the delivery costs = a new novak gtb2. I am posting here in case any of you have any ideas on how to fix it without sending it back becasue i was hoping to play with the car over summer the fun lasted only a few mins though .

Many thanks
Aris
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Old 07-02-2011, 09:14 PM   #56
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Can't we get a gtb2 with internal booster for 1s racing..everyone is doing it..
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Old 07-05-2011, 09:53 AM   #57
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I have forwarded your questions to our Engineering/Tech Support depts. to see if we can offer assistance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lunchboxer89 View Post
Hello evryone this is my first time here. I had recently purchased a novak gtb2 and after half a run the car was slowing down so i thought it would be the voltage cut off system so i changed battery and when i turned the car back on it wouldnt move. The leds would be on normaly but if i continued pressing the trigger the leds that indicate rotor lock of the motor would start blinking. The motor turns freely thought and it can start if you give a push to the car and then runs normaly. Steering works and everything else is fine and i didnt exceed the voltzge (2s lipo) etc. I have tried different motor receiver battery sensor wire EVERYTHING besides the esc because i dont have one. I think its the esc that causes the problem. I have contacted novak and they were very polite but i cant afford to send it back ( i live in Greece) since the delivery costs = a new novak gtb2. I am posting here in case any of you have any ideas on how to fix it without sending it back becasue i was hoping to play with the car over summer the fun lasted only a few mins though .

Many thanks
Aris
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Old 07-05-2011, 04:44 PM   #58
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I have had this issue where the motor would not run unless you gave the car a push. I have found out in the past that it can be one of three things. One, the hall sensor in the motor is bad. Two, the sensor wire is bad. Three, the esc has a bad circuit for the timing part for the motor. I have had this happen with a Duo motor where the sonsor assembly board in the motor went bad and the other was the esc took a g-shock from a hard crash and the circuit that deals with the timing or the position of the rotor is at a top dead center went bad. So try another motor and sensor wire.
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Old 07-05-2011, 05:07 PM   #59
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Questions??

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Originally Posted by NovakTwo View Post
I have forwarded your questions to our Engineering/Tech Support depts. to see if we can offer assistance.
I have the same issue. The car would stop driving when I have a minor bump by others, or flipped over. Steering worked fine but there was no drive to the motor. What I found out is when I try to pull out the sensor wire on the motor and put it back, everything would work fine again. I have to repeat this everytime my car stopped on the track.

So is this a sensor wire problem, motor sensor problem or GTB2 problem? I am running Novak Ballistic 17.5T and GTB2 with factory sensor wire.

Any idea? I don't want my car to stop dead in the middle of the race because of this problem.
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Old 07-05-2011, 05:23 PM   #60
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For Ballistic motors, take the sensor out and put some sticker material over the silver dots on the pc board, insulating the sensor board from the bearing. That should fix you up.
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