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Old 07-13-2004, 09:14 AM   #1
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Default Soldering question

I've been trying to convert my stick packs to side-by-side. I'm using the Deans speed jig and probars. My iron is definitely hot enough and the solder is melting very well. The problem is no matter how much solder I melt onto or around the bar, it seems to only build up on top of the bar instead of around it, and because of this the joint never seems to be strong enough. I'm using the Deans solder which already has flux in it. Am I missing anything?? Thanks for any input.
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Old 07-13-2004, 09:18 AM   #2
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"tin" the cell and the bar where it contacts the cell.....

put some flux onto the "tined" cell.....

do not apply more solder on the iron tip, just touch the bar and let the solder liquify and flow in the bar holes.....

I found this way is the best and if I get some pics of my packs I'll post here....
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Old 07-13-2004, 09:29 AM   #3
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Ya, and most of the time less soler is better that more.
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Old 07-13-2004, 09:30 AM   #4
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Your iron isn't up to the task of soldering batteries. My goot brand iron gets red hot and takes seconds to attatch a battery bar. You might want to look into a better iron.
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Old 07-13-2004, 09:34 AM   #5
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Yup!! I agree with you.. Have you tried to scuff the portion of the battery to where you will solder??.. Just a fine grits of sand paper enough to removed the polish/shiny thing on the area. use a solder with flux for better soldering joint..
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Old 07-13-2004, 09:39 AM   #6
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I happen to be using the Goot 100W iron myself. It's definitely transfering heat to the bar real quick, because I can melt solder on the bar instantly, the problem is the solder is only sticking onto the bar but staying off the surface of the cell like some sort of wax is on it.

If I tin the surface of the cell, do I need to apply anymore solder when I place the bar on top of it or do I just heat up the bar and it'll join with the solder?
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Old 07-13-2004, 12:00 PM   #7
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I use a 60W iron with 3mm wide tip....

63/37 solder, melts at lower temp and is the strongest in my opinion...
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Old 07-13-2004, 12:37 PM   #8
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Silver.... You are almost there. Make sure you tin the cell before you try to attach the bar. The battery his a much larger heat capacity and takes a bit longer to get the surface to the solder melting point. The bar will get hot fast and melt the solder but the cell will not get hot as quickly. That's why the bar is melting the solder but it's not flowing to the cell.

Just set the bar aside. Scuff the cell ends with some sand paper. Clean them off with some rubbing alcohol. Clean your iron off on a sponge. Then put a small amount of solder on the iron and touch it to the cell top. Touch the solder to the cell top a few millimeters from the iron and wait for the cell to get hot enough to melt the solder. The metal of the cell has to melt the solder... not the iron itself.

Once the cells are tined you can set the bar on the cells and hold them down with the spring loaded thingy that comes with the Dean's Jig. You should just be able to touch the iron to the hole on each side of the bar and it should melt right into the solder on the cell.

Remember that heat can damage your nice new batteries. The trick is to get the surface of the sell real hot, real fast. But not to get the entire cell hot. If you can't get the cell to melt the solder after about 5 seconds just take the iron off and let that cell cool for a while so you don't damage it. I just move to the next cell and come back to that cell later after it cools. A clean iron with a little bit of fresh solder on it will make a good contact between you cell and the iron and heat the surface up quickly without putting too much heat into the cell.

I typically tin all 6 cells on both sides before I attache bars. I tin all one side of the cells then all the other side so each cell gets a little cooling break between soldering iron touches. Then I attach each bar and you can usually get it to melt the solder on the cells on either end of the bar at the same time but I make sure to push both sides down into the solder using the iron so get the bar to make a close contact with the cell inside the melted solder.

PM me if you have any specific questions.
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Old 07-13-2004, 01:32 PM   #9
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Quote:
Then I attach each bar and you can usually get it to melt the solder on the cells on either end of the bar at the same time but I make sure to push both sides down into the solder using the iron so get the bar to make a close contact with the cell inside the melted solder.
That puts too much heat into the cells.

I don't EVER tin the cells. I just rough them up with a sanding drum in the dremel. The more the better in my opinion. I then place the bars on the cells UNTINNED, tin the tip of the iron, place on the bar and feed some solder in between the cell and the bar. Just takes a small ammount of solder, the joints are VERY strong, and almost NO heat goes into the cell. AND, they look great.
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Old 07-13-2004, 01:33 PM   #10
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I agree, I think you should try lightly scuffing the surface of the cells before you tin them, that should help the solder stick much better(& if you're careful, you can also use a sanding drum on a Dremel at LOW rpm to do it quickly).....
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Old 07-13-2004, 01:42 PM   #11
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PitCrew... I'll give that a shot next time.
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Old 07-13-2004, 03:22 PM   #12
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scuff the cells, tin the bars, put a little flux on the cell, place bar over cell...tin iron(tin the iron ..it will transfer more heat faster ) touch iron to bar..see the tinned bar "wet"..pull away iron
..repeat on each cell
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Old 07-13-2004, 03:57 PM   #13
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REMEMBER that you are heating the bar not the solder.
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Old 07-13-2004, 05:45 PM   #14
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the soldering iron will heat the solder thru the bar
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Old 07-13-2004, 05:56 PM   #15
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if all else fails staple them together.
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