edm rob

iTrader: (7)

looking at the zero going to replace a xxxs on my last belt, what spare parts do you bring to the track and what upgrades should i do i will be running vta.

shadowracer24

iTrader: (3)

Really just the basics like spare front arms, c hubs and steering blocks are about the only spares you need. The only real upgrade that I suggest is the vertical motor mount and sway bars.

kanamin

YESSS

This is from both TQ and RCmart, they decided to arrive at the same time

Also I got the spare diff pulley set # SAK65GV2 since it comes with both 37 and 38 tooth pulleys, going to try 20/37 to reduce pinion size

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

Excellent choice of upgrades, do you alloy bulk heads or still using the kit plastic ones?

Cheers
Rob.

TeamThibault

ok i just finished at wcics and had a Very poor weekend
(all most gave up on this chassis)

could not get any grip
heres my set up
-spool
-1000 wtg in rear gear dif.
-3mm droop front&back
-5.5 front&rear ride height
-adjustable shocks 40 wtg in all shocks
-f shock in hole #3 b shock in hole #3
-3Racing Spring Set For #M03M-13/LB/V2. soft in rear extra stiff in the front
tried just stiff in rear didnt make a difference
sway bars 4 in front 2 in back
jaco blues tires -back full sauce front half
cf chassis
1.5 toeout -2camber and 3 in the back
after striping my spur i used stock spur and 33 pinion on 17.5binky (seem to be very slow)
another fellow racer said to try to remove screws in the top deck and that help a lot(thanks Chuck)
could some one tell me what Im doing wrong?
is there any difs for this car that dont leak?
and yes im a beginner
could a few of you guys post your setup
i would like to run another car with 21.5 & hpi tires what would i change for that setup?

6376vette

30 wt oil in the shocks. 80 wt shock oil in the diff (ball diffs don't leak ) 0.5 toe out each tire. 1 camber in front. 1.5-2 in the rear.

What is your roll center set at?

Racing surface? Normal traction level? Surface temperature? (For the tire choice)

More details on "no grip". When? Corner entry corner exit on power off power etc.

When is the car low on traction? Whole race mid race end race etc

traction is all about weight shift and controlling it.

Font give up. this is a very capable car and other touring cars can have the exact same issues you are having. tuning is a steep learning curve. you may want to remove the sway bars until you get used to the other settings. they are not necessary in order to have a good car but are very useful to have a great car.

TeamThibault

What is your roll center set at? dont know? need help here
Racing surface...carpet low-at start - med on last day traction
More details on "no grip". When? Corner entry corner exit on power off power etc...
-the car would all most do circles... slide around corners (like drifting)

i have second car with silver can set the same but with out swaybars and s1 chassis
stock shocks with 40 and had even less traction

we have spec tires

TeamThibault

Would the spec 416 gear dif work in this chassis?

salze145

what toe-in block are you using rear? 2-3 degree is fine on asphalt.

6376vette

Ok. the one adjustment that should yield a noticeable difference is the rear roll center. put 1.5 mm of shims under the ball stud for the rear upper inner camber link. no spacers under the ball stud on the c hub. this will lower the roll center and give you more rear traction. try this first on the setup you posted. be sure to report any changes so we can make it better.

you may try no traction compound on the front tires just to see if it pushes. you may need to reduce front traction.

6376vette

Works well on carpet too. I prefer 3.

TeamThibault

oh thats what its called " roll center" ...the rear upper linkage

on the front i have 2mm spacer same as the rear
(alum bulk heads&covers) on the cf chassis and nothing on the s1 stock chassis
im running a ff-0 fr-0 rf-0 rr- 3 toe-in blocks
oh ya forgot Im running the narrow suspension mounts in the back
I notice somewear on this forum steve runs 6 f 3 r droop would that help?

im thinking of changing to ball dif. would that help me any?
and thanks vette for the help

thefan

iTrader: (3)

Ball diff is awesome NO MORE leaks! As far as droop i run 6 front 5 rear, measured at the arms with chassis flat on setup board (ie no wheels).
Ride height 5f /5.5r, 1.5 camber f/r, .5 toe out front/ 2.5 toe in rear, 1mm shim f bulkhead/ 1.5mm rear, springs 5.5 f/r but before the narrow cf chassis i would use 5.75 or 6.0 in rear. sway bars 3 f/r, XI rear arms made a big difference in grip, but your narrow rear susp mounts should be similar, another thing your spool could be giving you too much steering making the rear loose try front diff 300k works for me, the above setup gives me awesome grip and handling i even tried it with a boosted 10.5 on the weekend FASTTT, my car is now a full zero though, with XI rear shock tower and XI f/r arms the shocks do mount at the bottom slightly differently which may cause different handling characteristics if you try and copy my setup, goodluck the sakura is a capable car stick with it, incidently why did you buy 3racing mini springs and not zero springs?

6376vette

Front spool should be fine on carpet. I have experience with at least 6 of these cars, different drivers and they all work fine with a spool.

6376vette

Remove the shims from the front camber links. sounds like you may have too much roll on the front.

I would try 3 mm droop over ride height in the front. 6 sounds excessive. I'm currently at 2.0 in the front.