2Likes3Racing Sakura Zero S
03-01-2013, 01:24 AM
#2521
Tech Adept
I too changed to 19t as recommended but as soon as i boosted the esc i stripped the pulleys so they were bald and constantly slipped under power, i switched back to 20t and never looked back, the belts are no longer too tight, i guess they stretch a little after some use. What should be mentioned is that many zero owners race vta where a looser belt is better but for boosted class stay with 20t pulleys, just my opinion anyway
03-01-2013, 05:33 AM
#2522
I have always ran the 20T pulley, and never had any problems even running a 13.5T stock no timing class.
They seem just tight enough but not to tight. I did take extra care in placing the diffs in the proper location ( by feel not by the manual ) for the belt tension. I have ran more than 1,000 laps at our little track over 10 races and they never slip.
They seem just tight enough but not to tight. I did take extra care in placing the diffs in the proper location ( by feel not by the manual ) for the belt tension. I have ran more than 1,000 laps at our little track over 10 races and they never slip.
03-01-2013, 05:51 AM
#2523
Tech Adept
I have always ran the 20T pulley, and never had any problems even running a 13.5T stock no timing class.
They seem just tight enough but not to tight. I did take extra care in placing the diffs in the proper location ( by feel not by the manual ) for the belt tension. I have ran more than 1,000 laps at our little track over 10 races and they never slip.
They seem just tight enough but not to tight. I did take extra care in placing the diffs in the proper location ( by feel not by the manual ) for the belt tension. I have ran more than 1,000 laps at our little track over 10 races and they never slip.
03-01-2013, 06:03 AM
#2524
Make sure that the belt is fairly tight. You want a little spring in it but not much, also make sure that the diffs are sitting in the slots of the bulkhead correctly. I guy I race with was stripping his belts also, and it turned out to be he had the slots off on the diffs from side to side.
I think he had on 3 slots back from center and the other 2 slots back from center.
I think he had on 3 slots back from center and the other 2 slots back from center.
03-01-2013, 06:25 AM
#2525
Tech Adept
Make sure that the belt is fairly tight. You want a little spring in it but not much, also make sure that the diffs are sitting in the slots of the bulkhead correctly. I guy I race with was stripping his belts also, and it turned out to be he had the slots off on the diffs from side to side.
I think he had on 3 slots back from center and the other 2 slots back from center.
I think he had on 3 slots back from center and the other 2 slots back from center.
ok thanks
03-01-2013, 03:19 PM
#2526
Im going to be racing 17.5 rubber tire carpet, and i want the to upgrade my shock towers to carbon fiber ones to match my carbon fiber narrow chassis. I see on tqrcracing there is what looks like the stock replacments and also ones that say plus 4mm height, what are these for? Does it mean extra ride height.
03-01-2013, 07:42 PM
#2527
Im going to be racing 17.5 rubber tire carpet, and i want the to upgrade my shock towers to carbon fiber ones to match my carbon fiber narrow chassis. I see on tqrcracing there is what looks like the stock replacments and also ones that say plus 4mm height, what are these for? Does it mean extra ride height.
03-02-2013, 02:08 AM
#2528
A question for anyone using a sakura for VTA.
Do you find you need to use the -1 spring retainers with the std length alloy shocks, and standard (or even 416 rear) towers?
My hybrid was running the carbon front tower, and using the rear from an XI with the front bulkhead covers on the rear (this allows me to move the body posts to match my XI DH, so all the bodies are interchangeable). I dont get enough up travel from the spring retainer, so the lowest rear ride height I could get was 6mm.
With the -1 I just installed I now have some space between the retainer and the top of the shock, so I can adjust up and down with the car at 5mm rear ride height.
Has anyone else found the same? Or is it just my weird hybrid.
Do you find you need to use the -1 spring retainers with the std length alloy shocks, and standard (or even 416 rear) towers?
My hybrid was running the carbon front tower, and using the rear from an XI with the front bulkhead covers on the rear (this allows me to move the body posts to match my XI DH, so all the bodies are interchangeable). I dont get enough up travel from the spring retainer, so the lowest rear ride height I could get was 6mm.
With the -1 I just installed I now have some space between the retainer and the top of the shock, so I can adjust up and down with the car at 5mm rear ride height.
Has anyone else found the same? Or is it just my weird hybrid.
03-05-2013, 05:12 PM
#2529
Im using the X1 rear tower too and i still need to use one shock clip to get my ride height, are you using the X1 bulkheads as well?
03-06-2013, 06:17 AM
#2530
Another Update
Another update in regards to a problem I was having previously with the problem of noisy gears and drive line binding.
After replacing the lower CF deck with a new one, well almost a completely new car the problem disappeared and the car was quiet. However fast forward a few weeks the problem is starting to appear again with the new(er) car.
Now here's something else to consider - I had finished building up a 3rd car but I built it up on the basic lower deck that comes with the Zero S, and just for my curiosity I put the most worn looking spur & pinion gear I had on the car and to my surprise it was quiet and silky smooth...
And this was with all the same components & parts from the original car that was giving me grief with the noise and binding problems.
Call me crazy if you like, but I believe the problem lays in the CF lower decks tweaking and creating the problems.
So now I am procrastinating on whether to buy a Zero S lower deck for the second car or buy the newer narrow CF lower deck to see if that solves the problem. (note: the first and 2nd car had the old wide CF lower decks).
So, any thoughts, comments or suggestions? The pile of hair on the floor is growing and it's not cat fur...
Cheers
Rob.
After replacing the lower CF deck with a new one, well almost a completely new car the problem disappeared and the car was quiet. However fast forward a few weeks the problem is starting to appear again with the new(er) car.
Now here's something else to consider - I had finished building up a 3rd car but I built it up on the basic lower deck that comes with the Zero S, and just for my curiosity I put the most worn looking spur & pinion gear I had on the car and to my surprise it was quiet and silky smooth...
And this was with all the same components & parts from the original car that was giving me grief with the noise and binding problems.Call me crazy if you like, but I believe the problem lays in the CF lower decks tweaking and creating the problems.
So now I am procrastinating on whether to buy a Zero S lower deck for the second car or buy the newer narrow CF lower deck to see if that solves the problem. (note: the first and 2nd car had the old wide CF lower decks).
So, any thoughts, comments or suggestions? The pile of hair on the floor is growing and it's not cat fur...
Cheers
Rob.
03-06-2013, 06:44 AM
#2531
Tech Adept
whats the most durable a arms for the zero (s)? just broke 1
03-06-2013, 11:17 AM
#2532
Big issue solved. I finally completed build, but wanted to share a HUGE issue that was found and made a huge difference. I read this complete thread, someone mentioned a shim under the bulkhead covers front and back. I read this and forgot about it.
After completing the build the whole drive was set loose but it still seemed to be binding or tight. I though it was the bearings but they were new out of the box. I finally found the cause is that when tightening down the bulkhead screws it's putting an ever so slight bind on the cam bearing holders and then that passes on to the bearing etc.
Solution: Place a .30mm shim under your bulkhead (yours may vary maybe .25 or more or less) and it will release the drive a lot. Maybe mine was odd but now it's smooth and free! I noticed also that the whole differential can move .30 in total left and right which before it would not budge. If yours can't move left and right it's likely binding.
Hope that helps!
After completing the build the whole drive was set loose but it still seemed to be binding or tight. I though it was the bearings but they were new out of the box. I finally found the cause is that when tightening down the bulkhead screws it's putting an ever so slight bind on the cam bearing holders and then that passes on to the bearing etc.
Solution: Place a .30mm shim under your bulkhead (yours may vary maybe .25 or more or less) and it will release the drive a lot. Maybe mine was odd but now it's smooth and free! I noticed also that the whole differential can move .30 in total left and right which before it would not budge. If yours can't move left and right it's likely binding.
Hope that helps!
03-06-2013, 11:45 AM
#2533
Tech Adept
I'll take a look at mine thanks. So far so good though. Smooth fast and quiet.
A new BL Motor/ESC will go in soon to replace the brushed Titan 12T.
Trinity D3 17.5T and this awesome ESC:
http://www.brushlesshobbies.com/120A...mer_p_113.html
A new BL Motor/ESC will go in soon to replace the brushed Titan 12T.
Trinity D3 17.5T and this awesome ESC:
http://www.brushlesshobbies.com/120A...mer_p_113.html
03-06-2013, 02:28 PM
#2534
Battery Mounts
Wanted to share this with everyone. While building the Zero, I was not crazy about all the battery mounts that were needed to hold in the battery, and also when having to flip the drive over to the other side in using the vertical motor mount also.
What I did was the following which was easier and a lighter battery system to where you can still use the factory strap and it fits perfectly and looks clean.
Get these:Associated Factory Team Carbon Servo Mounts TC4 (you need two sets making 4 of these servo holders in total)
Solution: Take each one, with the small tab that sticks out that will be the bottom for each holder. That will be the side that mounts flat onto the chassis. The little tabs actually align with the holes on the chassis but you have to file the diameter slightly smaller, takes one minute to do each one.
The hole that is now on the inside, take a 3mm drill and hand bore out each hole. You need to do this on all four. One one side, take the metal battery bar, slide the battery strap onto it on one side and mount onto chassis. Repeat on other side. The only stock battery holder you want to use with this setup is the one that looks like a flattened long "U" called battery mount "C" in the manual. That one you would place in the factory location in the center mounting location on the right side (looking from the rear of the car) to keep the battery from flying out.
Now you have a $6.60 battery holder that even with the belts flipped won't be in the way and no major cutting or grinding is needed, looks factory, is clean and lighter and low profile!
Hope that helps!
P.S. TQ RC Racing is out of stock as I bought the last set to do this. Sorry.
What I did was the following which was easier and a lighter battery system to where you can still use the factory strap and it fits perfectly and looks clean.
Get these:Associated Factory Team Carbon Servo Mounts TC4 (you need two sets making 4 of these servo holders in total)
Solution: Take each one, with the small tab that sticks out that will be the bottom for each holder. That will be the side that mounts flat onto the chassis. The little tabs actually align with the holes on the chassis but you have to file the diameter slightly smaller, takes one minute to do each one.
The hole that is now on the inside, take a 3mm drill and hand bore out each hole. You need to do this on all four. One one side, take the metal battery bar, slide the battery strap onto it on one side and mount onto chassis. Repeat on other side. The only stock battery holder you want to use with this setup is the one that looks like a flattened long "U" called battery mount "C" in the manual. That one you would place in the factory location in the center mounting location on the right side (looking from the rear of the car) to keep the battery from flying out.
Now you have a $6.60 battery holder that even with the belts flipped won't be in the way and no major cutting or grinding is needed, looks factory, is clean and lighter and low profile!
Hope that helps!
P.S. TQ RC Racing is out of stock as I bought the last set to do this. Sorry.
Last edited by Speed Passion; 03-06-2013 at 02:40 PM.
03-06-2013, 05:16 PM
#2535
After completing the build the whole drive was set loose but it still seemed to be binding or tight. I though it was the bearings but they were new out of the box. I finally found the cause is that when tightening down the bulkhead screws it's putting an ever so slight bind on the cam bearing holders and then that passes on to the bearing etc.
Solution: Place a .30mm shim under your bulkhead (yours may vary maybe .25 or more or less) and it will release the drive a lot. Maybe mine was odd but now it's smooth and free! I noticed also that the whole differential can move .30 in total left and right which before it would not budge. If yours can't move left and right it's likely binding.
Hope that helps!
Solution: Place a .30mm shim under your bulkhead (yours may vary maybe .25 or more or less) and it will release the drive a lot. Maybe mine was odd but now it's smooth and free! I noticed also that the whole differential can move .30 in total left and right which before it would not budge. If yours can't move left and right it's likely binding.
Hope that helps!
The solution to this was what you described above.
Cheers
Rob.