ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

It does it regardless of what size pulley's are in the car, the noise sounds similar to that of a tamiya mini.
I have tried making the belts, tight or loose to no avail. I have checked every single bearing in the car making sure there is nothing wrong and that they spin freely.
I have tried countless brands/sizes of spur & pinion gears.
I have made sure no bearings are too tight in the housings.
I have shimmed everything up to make sure there is no binding with any rotating part.

When I put any motor in, sitting the car on a stand it makes a loud noise under acceleration and when you release the throttle to neutral the wheels stop spinning quickly as if there was drag brakes applied.
I have checked the settings in my esc and no drag brakes are on.
I have swapped out the esc & receiver from my other car with the same results.

I can use any motor or gears in my other car, which is a tamiya and there is no noise or any hint of binding.

The only thing I can put it down to is the vertical motor mount, as the version 2 one is for the Zero (what my car is) and the other vertical mount is for the Zero S.

This has been a very very frustrating experience for me, and I am quickly losing patience with the car after weeks of constantly stripping down & rebuilding without solving the problem.

Cheers
Rob.

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

Rob, I'm not 100% sure, but I think the only difference between the motor mount for the zero s and the zero is the alloy layshaft mount is included with the zero s mount, where the zero v2 doesn't because the zero already has that part.

How is the car when it's not under power? (I mean everything installed but not switched on)
Is there any binding then?

Also how tight is your gear mesh? Is there still binding with it set further apart then normal?

thefan

iTrader: (3)

Another issue i had was the notch on the bulkheads wore down allowing the diff bearing holder to spin around on its own which also made a weird sound, possibly another thing to check, what about the diff gears are they chewed out?

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

Ah thanks for that.

Even with the mesh looser than normal I can still feel something binding and it still makes a very noticeable noise - closest I can describe the noise is similar to a FGX F1.
I originally thought it was the pinion & spur gear, but when I put them in my old ta05 they run silent.
Maybe it's my imagination but when I eye ball the motor in the car it doesn't look to be at 90 degree's to the spur gear, hence my suspicion of a dodgy motor mount.
I'm hoping to take it to a friend who also has one so he can have a look at it, and hopefully figure out the problem for me.
The car has had very little use due to this problem so I'm sure the gears in the diffs are fine (no notching, clicking, grabbing etc.)
With the motor still in the car but no pinion I can hear a noise even just spinning the drive train by hand.

I really like the car, but at the same time I'm wondering now should I have bought something else, because I'm worried that if I buy another motor mount and the problem exists, then it'll just be something that I'll sit on the shelf and never use again.

Cheers
Rob.

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

I've got 2 spare vmm's. Are you doing any racing at highway hobbies soon? I could send them down with one of the other newie guys or something (might be a while before I get there again).

Making a noise with the motor installed but no pinion seems to suggest the motor is tweaking the chassis somehow. Maybe it's throwing your layshaft out of whack? You could try removing the shims from the layshaft and re mounting the motor. If that stops the noise it will confirm it. It could be the motor pushing on the top deck?

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

That's what I'm suspecting it is because if I remove one of the screws from either end of the layshaft, it becomes a little more free to turn.
I've checked the top deck and it's not touching the motor any where, and when I tighten the top motor screw it feels like the top of the motor mount is bending slightly.
I think I'll just go ahead and order another motor mount, would it be best to order the version 1 that comes with the other piece, just in case the one I have is not lining up properly?

Thanks for your help, hopefully I'll get this sorted out soon.

Cheers
Rob.

Anthias

To answer my own question. The cams where equal, but they where set way to tight. So that must have made the belt drag to the right, and then pushing the pully out.

Have changed back to 19 pulleys and running almost equal setting on the cams. Been running for many hours today. :-)

Anthias

Does anyone have a setup with a spool for running on carpet? I would be interested in a setupsheet.

One of the guys on my local track recommended running with a frontspool. So I have changed to that. But the car was difficult to drive. A lot of understeer, but also loose at the back. Ended up with more front camber, harder front and back springs and it was better, but still over a second slower then with my old diff with 3000 oil.

Any tips? Thinking about running with thicker oil in the diff, rather then running with the spool...

sonspit

I went down 7 teeth in my spur gear and went up 12 teeth on my pinion..should i expect more torque or more top end?....excuse me I'm new to this

FauxMako

More top end. But, that's a huge change. Normally you only change a tooth or two at a time on the pinion and 1 "size" on the spur (normally 3-4 teeth, 100 to 96 to 93 for example). Make sure you watch your motor and esc temps closely -- every couple of minutes -- or you could have a meltdown. Depending on where you started, you could have gone from a high 4 to a low 3 FDR. Again, normally you'd only change your FDR by .1 or so at a time.

thefan

iTrader: (3)

why not put the stock motor mount back in just to check whether that is the problem before forking out for another one.

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

You could try shimming either the root arm or the motor to see if you can stop the tweak that way? Or like was suggested above check with the stock motor mount to see if its still tweaked.

The other option you have is to go for the XIv2 motor mount. Its what I use on my XI DH and on the XI/Zero Hybrid. You can fit crazy low fdrs if you want. From memory last time I worked it out you could go to 60/52. Its also much nicer to change spurs on.

You do need to move the hole where the root arm normally mounts to by 3mm centre to centre rearward on a zero chassis. Here's a pic installed in my hybrid:



Part number is SAK-X24/PK

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

Yeh I'm going to try the original motor mount as I'm thinking about using this car in boosted 17.5, so the original may be better in that way.
The only thing is I can't find the bracket for the left side of the center shaft, no biggie though as going to a friends on the weekend and he's got one for me to try.
I did notice that the upper arm of the vmm has a small gap between in and the motor when the bottom screw is tightened up, so that may also be affecting it.
Anyway, still got some things to try and hopefully all will be fixed.

Cheers
Rob.

sonspit

Yeah the motor does get hot. I installed a 3 racing heatsink and fan...how do you know when it's too hot..i have nothing to get the actual temp .is there another method

FauxMako

Nothing that I'd want to rely on.

IR Temp gun is around $20.