Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
3Racing Sakura Zero S >

3Racing Sakura Zero S

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree2Likes

3Racing Sakura Zero S

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-07-2012, 05:58 AM
  #2071  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northeast GA
Posts: 1,685
Default

Originally Posted by Eddscott
Hi there,

I have just registered as I am in the process of building an S to go racing again after a few years break. All going well but just can't get the diffs to seal. They either leak from the screw heads or from the case itself if not tight enough but if I tighten too much the diff won't move. I'm a bit stuck on what to try next. Any ideas?
Welcome back.

try black silicone on each side of the gasket. It is easy to apply, seals very well, and is easy to remove. A little goes a long way. You should be able to pick it up at the auto parts store.
6376vette is offline  
Old 10-07-2012, 07:52 AM
  #2072  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (84)
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Wyoming, MN
Posts: 697
Trader Rating: 84 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by BCZero
Mike have you tried 3racing own spurs? They have a massive range, they are dirt cheap and come in 48 and 64 variants...
I have not tried them yet no. But I will look into them. I did find some Kimbrough 64p spur gears that I was able to make work to get the FDR I was looking for.


Originally Posted by d.k.vmatt
im running a 74/37 combo in a vertical mount and the pinion clears by a hair but it works.
I got a 80/47 (64p gears of course) to barely work with a little dremel work and was able to pull off a 3.234 FDR! Which is right about where I want to be.
mike_d is offline  
Old 10-07-2012, 08:42 AM
  #2073  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
ta04evah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,616
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Eddscott
Hi there,

I have just registered as I am in the process of building an S to go racing again after a few years break. All going well but just can't get the diffs to seal. They either leak from the screw heads or from the case itself if not tight enough but if I tighten too much the diff won't move. I'm a bit stuck on what to try next. Any ideas?
Hi,

another zero owner posted a link to the 3 racing site that gave good advice and tips to build the diffs so they dont leak.
Part of the process is to use 3 racing anti wear grease on the seals, I used a different brand but it still worked and the diffs don't leak.

Thanks to wollow86 for the link. http://www.rctech.net/forum/11189958-post1982.html

http://os.3racing.hk/articles.php?articles_key=133

Also if you use the kit shocks or the alloy 3 racing shocks I found that if you use Tamiya seals for the top of the shock they will never leak.

Cheers
Rob.
ta04evah is offline  
Old 10-07-2012, 06:37 PM
  #2074  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 246
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

To get the diffs to seal you have to file the case where the screw goes in because it leaves a slight mound in the plastic once done the diff wont leak and you dont need any sealant apart from the gasket of course
thefan is offline  
Old 10-07-2012, 08:26 PM
  #2075  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northeast GA
Posts: 1,685
Default

Originally Posted by thefan
To get the diffs to seal you have to file the case where the screw goes in because it leaves a slight mound in the plastic once done the diff wont leak and you dont need any sealant apart from the gasket of course
This will work for newer diffs but as the diff ages the screws must be tightened more to put enough pressure on the gasket to seal properly. if you put too much torque on the screws to get the gasket to seal then the diff binds. I am about to install my third diff case because of this problem. I think I'm actually going to go with the ball diff instead. I'm tired changing diff oils and cases.
6376vette is offline  
Old 10-07-2012, 09:24 PM
  #2076  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
ta04evah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,616
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by 6376vette
This will work for newer diffs but as the diff ages the screws must be tightened more to put enough pressure on the gasket to seal properly. if you put too much torque on the screws to get the gasket to seal then the diff binds. I am about to install my third diff case because of this problem. I think I'm actually going to go with the ball diff instead. I'm tired changing diff oils and cases.
Have you tried taking out 1 shim from inside one side of the diff before you tighten it up again? Instead of having 3 shims, leave 2 there and that will allow the side bevel gear to not be pushed up against the other gears.

Cheers
Rob.
ta04evah is offline  
Old 10-08-2012, 08:56 AM
  #2077  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northeast GA
Posts: 1,685
Default

Originally Posted by ta04evah
Have you tried taking out 1 shim from inside one side of the diff before you tighten it up again? Instead of having 3 shims, leave 2 there and that will allow the side bevel gear to not be pushed up against the other gears.

Cheers
Rob.
I have tried it before but not on this latest diff. Last time I tried it the o rings started leaking. The black silicone allows the diff to seal without having to torque the screws too hard.

I'm still really wanting to try the ball diff. I put the ball diff in my fgx and love it. I haven't ever run one in a tc chassis though. I don't mind additional cleaning and adjustment. The leaking oil is just really frustrating and being able to tune with the tweak of a screw should really help get the car dialed for track conditions.
6376vette is offline  
Old 10-08-2012, 06:48 PM
  #2078  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
ta04evah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,616
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by 6376vette
I have tried it before but not on this latest diff. Last time I tried it the o rings started leaking. The black silicone allows the diff to seal without having to torque the screws too hard.

I'm still really wanting to try the ball diff. I put the ball diff in my fgx and love it. I haven't ever run one in a tc chassis though. I don't mind additional cleaning and adjustment. The leaking oil is just really frustrating and being able to tune with the tweak of a screw should really help get the car dialed for track conditions.
I have to admit that I prefer ball diffs as well, the zero is my new car so I'm going to give the gear diffs a try at least. If I don't like the gear diffs, then I'll look at dropping a spool & ball diff into the car.

I have multiple ball diffs for my ta05 so I can just drop in different diffs for different tracks/track conditions, especially slippery tracks where that diff slippage can help keep the car pointed in the right direction.

Cheers
Rob.
ta04evah is offline  
Old 10-10-2012, 02:20 PM
  #2079  
Tech Rookie
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 19
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Had my first race evening with the S. I thought I had the rear diff sealed but it leaked real bad and splattered pretty much everything. I have sanded the cases and put anti wear grease on the seal but didn't work. On the plus side the diff itself feels good, I put 40wt shock oil in the rear and 1:1 comma multi purpose grease in the front diff which feels smooth but stiff. Going to try sealant before giving in for a ball (would ball be better than the roller diff?). I didn't want anything too fast so put a 13.5 motor in the car but under geared the car massively. 24/80 with the 19t pulley. Least it helped stay on track! Going to get 28 30 and 32 for next week.
Eddscott is offline  
Old 10-10-2012, 02:44 PM
  #2080  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (84)
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Wyoming, MN
Posts: 697
Trader Rating: 84 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Eddscott
Had my first race evening with the S. I thought I had the rear diff sealed but it leaked real bad and splattered pretty much everything. I have sanded the cases and put anti wear grease on the seal but didn't work. On the plus side the diff itself feels good, I put 40wt shock oil in the rear and 1:1 comma multi purpose grease in the front diff which feels smooth but stiff. Going to try sealant before giving in for a ball (would ball be better than the roller diff?). I didn't want anything too fast so put a 13.5 motor in the car but under geared the car massively. 24/80 with the 19t pulley. Least it helped stay on track! Going to get 28 30 and 32 for next week.
40wt shock oil seems awfully light for a gear diff. You should be in the 2000 -5000wt range. Might be why it's leaking so badly.
mike_d is offline  
Old 10-10-2012, 07:02 PM
  #2081  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northeast GA
Posts: 1,685
Default

Originally Posted by mike_d
40wt shock oil seems awfully light for a gear diff. You should be in the 2000 -5000wt range. Might be why it's leaking so badly.
I have never gone heavier than 1000 in my sakura diff and 80wt shock oil seemed just about right. For some reason the sakura diffs seem tighter than the xray or spec r diffs.
6376vette is offline  
Old 10-11-2012, 07:55 PM
  #2082  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
 
buckeye dan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: hicksville ohio
Posts: 444
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default gears

Hi guys I am runnig a sakura zero and i am looking for advice on gearing . I understand that there are different ideas out there just wanna pick some of ideas. How do you dtermine the sweet spot of rpms is it someting measured or just a feel. Is smaller spurs and larger pinons better than larger spurs and smaller pinion? Thanks for your input in advance.
buckeye dan is offline  
Old 10-11-2012, 08:46 PM
  #2083  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Melbourne South East
Posts: 51
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by buckeye dan
Hi guys I am runnig a sakura zero and i am looking for advice on gearing . I understand that there are different ideas out there just wanna pick some of ideas. How do you dtermine the sweet spot of rpms is it someting measured or just a feel. Is smaller spurs and larger pinons better than larger spurs and smaller pinion? Thanks for your input in advance.
It depends on your motor and the track you are running at.

What motor will you be running?
pmac is offline  
Old 10-14-2012, 02:22 AM
  #2084  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (12)
 
Rc-bear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 258
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Hi,

After some advice, I have a sakura s comming in the mail and I will soon be racing on a carpet track.

I have the belt adjuster , CF top deck and vertical motor mount comming in the post as my first upgrades and I will be installing a set of threaded Sakura shocks and 19t centre pulley and alloy spur holder, is there any other worthwhile upgrades?

Also am I better of using 48p or 64p gears?

Any advice and building tips will be appreciated.

Thanx in advance.
Rc-bear is offline  
Old 10-14-2012, 10:07 AM
  #2085  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
 
buckeye dan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: hicksville ohio
Posts: 444
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

64 pitch gives u more adjustment
Originally Posted by Rc-bear
Hi,

After some advice, I have a sakura s comming in the mail and I will soon be racing on a carpet track.

I have the belt adjuster , CF top deck and vertical motor mount comming in the post as my first upgrades and I will be installing a set of threaded Sakura shocks and 19t centre pulley and alloy spur holder, is there any other worthwhile upgrades?

Also am I better of using 48p or 64p gears?

Any advice and building tips will be appreciated.

Thanx in advance.
buckeye dan is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.