buckeye dan

iTrader: (11)

ben u have pm

buckeye dan

iTrader: (11)

I just saw an ad for gear diffs 1 xray diff 35 bucks lol 2 of those almost price of a zero.

6376vette

We had a few vta guys that didn't run sway bars and swore they didn't help but then I looked at the two fastest cars at the track. One of which places extremely well at a national level an they both were using sway bars. I talked with them and got some information on how to use them. I started finishing top 3 almost every time I raced. That was enough to convince me. The sakura is very capable of running without them. They just give you that little extra ability to fine tune things for that extra tenth or two. They won't correct major tuning issues but they do improve the overall car. Give them a shot. Heck for the price you can't lose.

buckeye dan

iTrader: (11)

I will buy as soon as they are in stock.. may get them this sat at race track.

luda

iTrader: (6)

I'm having problems with the rear diff belt tensioners not staying locked down. I remove the bulkhead covers and adjust the bearing holders to the same position, check, double check and triple check they are all in the slot yet when I accelerate the car one of the bearing holders always rotates. I have upgraded to the alloy bulkheads but am yet to upgrade to the alloy bulkhead covers. To me though it seems that the bearing covers just aren't wide enough to properly press into the slot on the rear bulkheads.

Any help solving this problem appreciate because I cannot seem to be able to solve this.

Thanks!

FauxMako

I was having the same problem. The "nub" that holds the cam had sheared off on one side. I had to replace that bulkhead.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10922692-post1693.html

luda

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the tip. I checked the nub and it is still there. There is some paint wear but no physical wear I can see. I am going to try more shims between the bearing and the holder. Would this be the solution or just a bandaid fix for the real problem? Any suggestions appreciated

FauxMako

Swap the cams around and see if the problem stays with that bulkhead or that cam.

luda

iTrader: (6)

It has happened both sides depending on which one you screw down first. I shimmed both sides a little more and that has stopped the rotating. I will keep watching it to see if I can see anything else.

davlind

iTrader: (4)

Just finished the build with a few options.
Fitted the vertical motor mount, 19t pulleys, 5mm hexes and the X-ray bumper. The top brace needed some creative grinding to fit as did the battery holders to get the lipo in. I ended up using the old pulley mount with a screw to hold back the battery from the belts.
One thing though, there's quite a lot of slack in the long belt. Is that normal as it seems excessive.
If anyone can help with tyre choice and setup for serccc in dandy or boronia. I've got some muchmore 32's. I'm using standard shocks with spacers and 40wt and kit springs. Front diff 300k and rear 2k. Are they alright. I'm. It sure about height from the ground and droop. Camber and toe as per setup sheet.
Also what's the best way to upload pics from your iPhone onto this page. Ill try and put up some pics later of the car and the newly painted body.

Great forum guys.

luda

iTrader: (6)

There's a fair bit of slack in my belts but I have not noticed any wear to be worried about.
With the cold weather I'll be looking to put 28's on the Sakura this weekend but wait and see what happens on the weekend.

orcadigital

iTrader: (61)

19t pulleys will give you more slack. You can tighten it up some with the bearing cam adjusters, but more slack = smoother drivetrain. The only things to watch for is belt skip (with higher powered motors) and belt rub at the tail end of the front slot behind the front diff. A lose belt will sometimes rub on the chassis and cause excessive wear on the backside of the belt. 1/3"-1/2" belt deflection is just fine on the front belt though. If you are worried, you can always get the belt tensioner that mounts on the topdeck.

nicholasxuu

iTrader: (13)

it's one of the most basic setup elements, very effective and functional.
It's a must for every racing car, 1:1 or RC.
The only reason a car is not equipped with one is to cut cost.


The stock S understeers nicely through the corners, but with anti-roll bar, it will get much sharper, because the front of the car doesn't rotate and delay the turning when you apply steering input. Then adjust the rear sway bar, you will feel significant understeer to oversteer change with sway bars going thicker.

You don't like them because you don't know how to use them, perhaps you are not racing in the fast enough pace that you need them.

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

Seriously, you're calling me a doofus and slow because I prefer not to run sway bars?

nicholasxuu

iTrader: (13)

no, there are other possibilities. i.e. rally track, very bumpy parking lot track...
still I can't find a reason why no sway bar setup is faster on a nice smooth race track.