3Racing Sakura Zero S
#3001
Tech Apprentice
Hey man it's the driver of the other Zero S in that race :P (may have been more, but you know who it is, it was both our zeros' inaugural race). It's alright you had no brakes, and it was your first race. Those "novices" have been racing all season (or at least for a month now, I keep seeing the same names on the driver standings reports).
More relevant to the thread, I was thinking instead of getting a vertical motor mount, to get to the hidden screw on the stock motor mount could I just dremel a 2mm hex key shorter (make the short side of the L shorter) and just squeeze that in through either the bottom hole or dremel off some of the top deck? It could just be for tightening, and one could adjust mesh with the other screw first. I think the whole diff/belt reversal will still need to happen to make access to that screw easier, but it seems doable in concept. Has anyone tried this?
More relevant to the thread, I was thinking instead of getting a vertical motor mount, to get to the hidden screw on the stock motor mount could I just dremel a 2mm hex key shorter (make the short side of the L shorter) and just squeeze that in through either the bottom hole or dremel off some of the top deck? It could just be for tightening, and one could adjust mesh with the other screw first. I think the whole diff/belt reversal will still need to happen to make access to that screw easier, but it seems doable in concept. Has anyone tried this?
TTS
#3002
We're mostly just hobbyists in here, not psychics, so when you ask for help you have to provide as much relevant information as possible. Are you going to drive in nside or outside, on carpet or asphalt, on a small and technical track or large and open one, or are you just going bashing on the parking lot?
Also, it is a good idea to check if someone already asked the same question before. Spending 5 seconds in google (9T fdr sakura) tells me that someone already asked the same thing before, in this very thread, and got an answer: http://www.rctech.net/forum/9607114-post619.html
Good luck, and enjoy your Zero S, it's a great car
#3003
Hello all.
I just mounted the motor (HobbyWing 9T) & am trying to decide what pinion to use. I've been reading about the FDR but not sure how to relate the gear chart to motor turns or kV. The chart shows pinions from 33 to 18 for the 80T spur gear. The FDR ranges from 8.44 to 4.61.
Any hints on how to choose or directions to where I can read up on it? Thanks.
Chuck
I just mounted the motor (HobbyWing 9T) & am trying to decide what pinion to use. I've been reading about the FDR but not sure how to relate the gear chart to motor turns or kV. The chart shows pinions from 33 to 18 for the 80T spur gear. The FDR ranges from 8.44 to 4.61.
Any hints on how to choose or directions to where I can read up on it? Thanks.
Chuck
I run the same motor with the Hobbywing 35a esc, my actual fdr is 6.15. I changed the pulley to 19 teeth so i get an idr of 2.
My gears are 48p with 26 pinion and the stock 80t pulley.
This is a starting point with this motor, then it depends on the track you're running on. Mine is a quite fast 1/8 asphalt track and most racers have 5.5t engines with 120a esc (my future upgrades). Plan to buy a few pinions to set your gear correctly. I bought 24.25.26.27.28 pinions.
Hope this helps
#3004
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
If the shocks are only leaking from the top cap then these will stop them leaking. http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-53576-d...?cPath=389_690
The top seals that come with the kit are rubbish and will leak no matter what you do to them (even the all alloy shocks do the same), replace them with the Tamiya seals and the shocks will work great, I rarely have to refill mine.
Cheers
Rob.
The top seals that come with the kit are rubbish and will leak no matter what you do to them (even the all alloy shocks do the same), replace them with the Tamiya seals and the shocks will work great, I rarely have to refill mine.
Cheers
Rob.
Preferably get yourself some anti wear grease, or a grease that's safe to use on rubber and coat the shocks top seal in grease then screw on the top cap.
The grease will help to form a seal, and if any grease is squeezed out just wipe the excess clean.
This could also be done to the small o ring seal in the shock as well.
Cheers
Rob.
#3005
Tech Apprentice
the comment that no ones shares is just not true. i havent been here in this thread long and have found all of my answers by reading thru the past posts and some by being answered by others.
being a newbie, i cant suggest you follow my sugguestions.
from what ive read fdr should be between low 3 to 6 or 7. i think it depends on the gears you have and the motor you use. higher turn motors need lower fdr so lower turn motors need higher fdr. however, fdr will depend on track size and type. like short track with lots of turns or long track with lots of room for more top speed.
with a 9 turn motor, i think you should start about a 4-5 fdr and go from there. you will have to check you motor and esc for proper temps to determine if you are under or over gearing and try different pinion/spur combos to get what you will need for your specific racing needs. I dont think any suggested fdr is good for any specific motor as track conditions and many other factors come into play to determine fdr.
i am sure someone else with more experience will chime in and let you know more in detail about what i am trying to say in my limited expereince.
TTS
#3006
Tech Elite
iTrader: (145)
Would anybody be willing to trade some parts? I need 2 aluminum bulkhead cover sets and I have an aluminum steering rack and an aluminum spur gear adapter sitting here that I dont need. I also need 2 pink belt tensioners. Let me know what you have. I am willing to pay cash as well. I hate waiting for it to ship from China.
Kyle
210-722-6891
Kyle
210-722-6891
#3007
Tech Master
Still don't know why peoples shocks are leaking. went a whole year on the stock bladder before I did a full rebuild and the new replacement ones work fine. How much rebound are you guys building into the shock? I build mine with zero rebound and never had a problem leaking.
#3008
Tech Regular
I haven't had problems with leaky shocks, but there's a cheap fix if the shock is leaking at the top. Put a 10mm shim (3RAC-SW10) between the rubber bladder and the shock cap. This will put a little extra squeeze on the rubber.
#3009
Tech Apprentice
Sounds like a good idea..I think I have some of those...thanks
#3010
Tech Apprentice
Would love to share with you but I run 17.5, 21.5, and 25.5 in this car. I have absolutely no idea about gearing a 9t motor. Never wanted to go that fast. now if you have handling issues or questions about upgrades then I'm all in.I try to check this thread daily.
Still don't know why peoples shocks are leaking. went a whole year on the stock bladder before I did a full rebuild and the new replacement ones work fine. How much rebound are you guys building into the shock? I build mine with zero rebound and never had a problem leaking.
Still don't know why peoples shocks are leaking. went a whole year on the stock bladder before I did a full rebuild and the new replacement ones work fine. How much rebound are you guys building into the shock? I build mine with zero rebound and never had a problem leaking.
I am running on asphalt with a pretty technical course with only one long straight...which springs might benefit me?
Thanks
TTS
#3011
Tech Apprentice
Last edited by ttsquirrel; 07-29-2013 at 06:12 PM. Reason: double post
#3012
Tech Master
So building the shocks with no rebound means that you can push arm in and it doesn't come back out at all? To build the shocks this way, I would guess you put in less shock oil then manual suggests? And you use the springs to get rebound..
I am running on asphalt with a pretty technical course with only one long straight...which springs might benefit me?
Thanks
TTS
I am running on asphalt with a pretty technical course with only one long straight...which springs might benefit me?
Thanks
TTS
I have found that the sakura likes a soft rear end with a stiffer front. try the 6.0 in the rear with the 5.5 or 5.25 in the front to start if you are running 17.5. Don't be afraid to go 6.5 in the rear to really soften things up. if you are running 25.5 vta I would go with the 6.5 rear and a 5.75 or 6.0 in the front. 21.5 would be somewhere in the middle. I would start with a 40 wt oil on the 3 hole piston for summer running. maybe a 30 wt oil in the cooler temps. if it seems like the suspension is moving too fast and bottoming out then try the 2 hole piston with the 40wt. of course the individual track conditions will have a lot to do with shock oil and spring choice but this should get you close.
#3013
Tech Apprentice
You are correct. push the arm in and it stays in. You want enough fluid in the shock so you don't have any air but not so much to create pressure when the shock moves. your springs are meant to provide the rebound to push the tires back down to the ground. the fluid is there to dampen the compression and extension of the shock shaft. the fluid shouldn't provide any rebound of its own. only damping.
I have found that the sakura likes a soft rear end with a stiffer front. try the 6.0 in the rear with the 5.5 or 5.25 in the front to start if you are running 17.5. Don't be afraid to go 6.5 in the rear to really soften things up. if you are running 25.5 vta I would go with the 6.5 rear and a 5.75 or 6.0 in the front. 21.5 would be somewhere in the middle. I would start with a 40 wt oil on the 3 hole piston for summer running. maybe a 30 wt oil in the cooler temps. if it seems like the suspension is moving too fast and bottoming out then try the 2 hole piston with the 40wt. of course the individual track conditions will have a lot to do with shock oil and spring choice but this should get you close.
I have found that the sakura likes a soft rear end with a stiffer front. try the 6.0 in the rear with the 5.5 or 5.25 in the front to start if you are running 17.5. Don't be afraid to go 6.5 in the rear to really soften things up. if you are running 25.5 vta I would go with the 6.5 rear and a 5.75 or 6.0 in the front. 21.5 would be somewhere in the middle. I would start with a 40 wt oil on the 3 hole piston for summer running. maybe a 30 wt oil in the cooler temps. if it seems like the suspension is moving too fast and bottoming out then try the 2 hole piston with the 40wt. of course the individual track conditions will have a lot to do with shock oil and spring choice but this should get you close.
thanks vette. just guessing but if you have a 63 and 76 corvette, those years are definitely some of the best looking vettes in its history.
as far as the springs go, what brand is the best for the zero?
TTS
#3015
Tech Apprentice