salze145

a good explanation!

TeamThibault

just wanted to share a old pic

cygnusx1

I replaced the broken rear upright, and added thicker hexes to widen it a bit. I put in my new Turnigy 6000 NanoTec and I love it all over again. It's so fast and smooth. It sounds like a jet fighter when it zips by. Check out the sound as it zips past my phone camera today. I can't wait to get a gps read on it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ox_zi...ature=youtu.be

Anthias

Is it the front or the rear u set to 2 on high traction?

What camber are you running? Any shims anywhere?

D.Martijn

A friend and me might buy this car so we can race against each other.
We are looking to get some cheap (but still good) electronics any suggestions?

What would you guys suggest?
What parts are common to break/fail?

Cheers

6376vette

I will run both front and rear at 2mm if traction is high. on very rare occasions I have dropped the front to 1.5 mm but that's only when the track has insane traction.

I run shims under the inner upper camber link ball stud but only if they are the aluminium diff covers. the plastic ones already are higher than the aluminum ones. how many again depends on traction but 1 to 1.5 mm usually works pretty good to set the rear roll center. no shims on the front.

I am currently running 0 degrees of static camber front and rear but I run the camber links as short as possible for more camber gain when the suspension compresses. The suspension travel will give me 1.5 degrees under full compression. if traction is lower in the corners I will go to 1 degree and if its really bad 2. I don't run more than 2 degrees of camber. if the car is still hard to drive I will go back and look at droop and especially roll center to get more traction. I have had my car set up with 3 degrees of rear toe in for a while now and it feels best. When I was running vta with the slower car 2 degrees of toe worked best.

6376vette

Don't know about the cheap electronics but I just went from a Novak gtb 2 to a viper vtx 10r and absolutely love the viper. the Novak was good and never gave me problems but the viper already shaved 0.2 off of my lap times and I have only started to learn how to tune it.

parts would be a arms, steering knuckles, and c hubs. not because they are weak but because they are the most common to get hit in a wreck. get the aluminium wheel hexes and a servo saver ASAP. The kit parts aren't worth installing.

cygnusx1

I'm running the Brushless Hobbies 120A ESC which is USB programmable for boost, with a used 10.5T motor. About $110 worth of powertrain for tons of speed.

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

For good and cheap electronics you may want to check out some options from HobbyKing.

Motor - The new Turnigy Trackstar motors are awesome value for money, they are basically a re badged Reedy motor. They are getting good reviews here on RC Tech http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ar-motors.html
They are available from 21.5 turn right down to 3.5 turns, and at $32US that's an absolute bargain price.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...or_2270KV.html

ESC - The HobbyKing X-Car 120amp is basically a re badged Hobbywing 120amp esc. The Hobbywing 2 in 1 LCD programming box & Hobbywing software will work on this esc. At $35US again it's great value for money.http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...nsorless_.html

Also I notice that you have a Spektrum radio listed in your signature, if it's compatible with DSM2 receivers, then you may want to consider a Orange Box DSM2 3CH micro receiver. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._Receiver.html

I have a Spektrum DX3C transmitter and am using one of these receivers with it without any glitches or problems.
And at $10US for a micro receiver, again it's a great buy.

Cheers
Rob.

D.Martijn

Oke, thanks guys

jack_lee

I don't know whether this has been posted before but here is my floating servo mod. This will go with the FF/Xi steering system.

Anthias

I have the zero / alu bulkhead cover on both front and rear. In the installation guide it is shipped with it is marked with a 3mm shim in both front and rear. This is what I have. You have only 1-1,5mm shim there? And nothing in front?

I also have it in the inner hole on both front and rear bhc. I see you say you have short camber links. are you on the outer hole on the bhc?

6376vette

Yes. no shims on the front and only 1 to 1.5 on the rear. this is your roll center adjustment. by lowering the roll center you allow the chassis to roll more and let the suspension do more of the work for the traction. too low and the car can traction roll or the tires will not come up to temp. raising the roll center puts more demand on the tires for traction. too high and the tires either won't be able to keep up with the demand and they will break loose or they will overheat and become loose halfway into your run. watch the lower threads of your ball stud to make sure they don't hit the outdrive cups on the differential. I had this problem with the front and had to cut the thread back a little.

outer hole on the covers and inner hole on the rear hub. this will give you the most camber gain throughout the suspension travel.

Anthias

I had to put on longer ball studs to cope with the 3mm shim. changing back should do the trick.

What posision on the front bulkheadcover and c hub?

Could my 3mm shims front and rear be the problem with rear traction on turnin? I often spin out. Also with sorex tires, both 20R and 28R on our cold carpet I have a LOOSE backend. on the Sweep 28R i have a loose back end, but not as bad, and so much front traction my car tractionroll.

6376vette

Front cover is outer hole. there is only one hole on the front c hub so your kinda stuck with it.

It could be your problem. you have your front roll center pretty low with a 3 mm shim. pull the front shim and leave the rear and see now it handles. If it begins to push a little or the rear feels really slugging drop the rear shims down to 2 then to 1.5 then to 1 and see what you like best. a low roll center could also contribute to your traction roll. Sounds like the front is just biting in too hard. you could also try harder front springs and less rear droop to keep more weight on the rear under braking.