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Old 10-21-2001, 05:56 PM   #61
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a stiff setup at the back would make the thing tail happy. i think. unless you prefer it that way.
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Old 10-21-2001, 05:59 PM   #62
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my setup is blue springs and 60wt silicon oil up front and red and 50wt silicon at the back. haven't tried it yet because i'm still trying to determine the spring pre-load i'm going to put in.

my previous setup was tamiya #400 wt silicon oil all around and blue spings up front with the red springs at the back. runs well on cement.

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Old 10-21-2001, 11:44 PM   #63
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If you ever got hit side ways or jammed your EVo into wall in an angle... better check your bearing for the wheels now.

I am not sure what exactly happened to my car but i'm pretty sure it's from hitting the wall: The one of the bearing on my front wheel is busted. Evo's bearings on all four corner are pretty much "exposed" to everything and anything. It might be busted if you are not careful.....
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Old 10-22-2001, 12:12 AM   #64
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i did a complete re-build of the evo over the weekend. there was nothing busted but one of the bearings felt gritty. it is the one i put inside the rear differential case -- a 1280. it was full of grit but i was able to clean it with wd40 but it took a while. i also cleaning the diff case itself. the inside was pretty dirty.

btw, does tamiya have any 1280 sealed bearings?
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Old 10-22-2001, 02:22 AM   #65
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yes they have them.
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Old 10-22-2001, 06:32 PM   #66
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awwww durn. the local dealer here just doesn't have it yet. aaaargh! why is it that most of the time they don't have what you need.

sigh.
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Old 10-23-2001, 08:56 PM   #67
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I've just completed building my evo1, and followed manual exactly. When I applied throttle, the car didn't move. It was because of the rear ball diff. Somehow it was as tight as what was recommended in the manual, after tightening it abit, it was better, but still I didn't get enough power to the wheels. It's a pain to strip out the rear just to adjust the diff screw... is there any other way and how much tighter?
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Old 10-23-2001, 09:04 PM   #68
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Follow the manual to build the rear diff... it should be fine... I had problem with it when I first built it too. Sometimes it's so tight that the wheel locked up once you let go the throttle, sometimes it's way too loose that no wheel spin at rear at all.

What I did was Follow that manual and actually made that half turn after the first tight turn. It works fine now. You have to run the car few times to make the rear diff to work perfectly.

I have no problem at all with the rear diff right now... it works great for me.... hope this helped

Last edited by TRF-Powered; 10-23-2001 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 10-23-2001, 10:19 PM   #69
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TRF-Powered - Thanks for your advice, I'll try it out soon.
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Old 10-24-2001, 02:35 AM   #70
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congratulations on you evo1. enjoy!
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Old 10-24-2001, 06:43 PM   #71
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folks, i need your help on this one.

if i wanted to replace the one-way diff of the evo1 what is the tamiya replacement? part number?

thanks
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Old 10-24-2001, 08:19 PM   #72
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Just the diff alone? I think this is the part number:
53200

Check the sheaf of paper which came in the box, got all the part numbers.

I think u will also need like tb-evo ring gears, and other parts in order to build a fully new diff...
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Old 10-24-2001, 10:08 PM   #73
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do you want a new one way or a regular diff to replace the one way?

if you want a regular diff you need the TG10 ball diff and a light weight diff ring set
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Old 10-24-2001, 11:02 PM   #74
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newracer, alvin: okay. i got to see the ball diff for the tg10. the only difference (at least cosmetically) is the ring gear which is aluminum compared t the hard plastic for the tb evo. the evo comes with two extra ring gears (i think).

i just want to try the thing with two ball diffs instead of a ball diff and a one-way diff. has anyone tried this already?
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Old 10-24-2001, 11:07 PM   #75
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that's what I run, I think it makes the car drive a lot easier, the rear end of mine seamed just too on the edge with the front one way, might also just be my driving style.
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